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Posts posted by Guy Lowe
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As above, will work Monday
RTFM 🤪
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Never use them and not had a problem in 22 years, I don’t think many race cars use them either.
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For 22 years I have always made my own throttle cables from bike shop purchased cables, & nipples, clutch cables from REDLINE every time 👍
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I would also be interested in this, if I get my head back & rebuilt in time 🤑
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I have a 30 year old S3 with the original AP master cylinder (new seals 10 years ago) and my pedal is great, only 1/2” travel, solid as a rock and perfect for heeling & toeing. People who have driven my car often comment on how good the brakes are for standard set up.
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12 minutes ago, Wrightpayne said:
Personally, I wouldn’t put washing up liquid anywhere near engineered components.
I can only assume GB was being facetious
Probably not, it’s quite common to use soap to assist with fitting rubber components that are a tight fit as it doesn’t affect the rubber where as lubricants like oil and grease will. However you only need a smear imo.
ETA: You could always use red rubber grease but that’s messy and hangs about attracting dirt and carp.
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20 minutes ago, Nigel Riches said:
Nice tin bashing here Guy, I saw your post on the other page we use, and I have a sheet of this stuff in the shed, especially as the starter has started to emit a strange noise on cranking, possibly too late now, more fun and games, I seem to spend more time mucking about sorting things than driving it.
Hi Nigel, It’s really easy to bend, I just rolled it round a large bottle on my bench and you can cut it with a good pair of scissors or tin snips.
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1 hour ago, Ainsley said:
Rusting !
That's not good, is that because the wrapping held moisture and that caused the rusting ? I'm curious as I'm planning on wrapping my pipes.
Don't they get so hot any moisture is evaporated very quickly ?
Not really sure on either question, my primaries are Cheesman so good quality stainless steel. I had them wrapped from new for about 4 years when a fellow owner (Phil Waters) warned me about the problem he had, so I removed the wrap and there was definitely signs of rust and they were very badly pitted. Took a fair bit of aggressive polishing to clean them up.
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I gave up with wrapping the primaries as they starting rusting (stainless 🙄) have now made a shield with Nimbus double layer from Merlin Motorsport
p.s. Image taken when primaries removed.
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Morning Dan, back home now you have 3 private messages (images too big).
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I always use an old first motion shaft (input shaft for the younger members), cannot get on with the plastic carp ones as they allow too much play and don’t align properly. R&R always have a few old ones hanging about.
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Speak to Chris at REDLINE
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Evening David
I fitted one about a year ago, very simple took about 30 minutes. No real issues (I don’t have a steering lock) but just be careful passing it through the top and bottom bushes, I sprayed mine liberally with Silicone spray and it slide in nicely 😜
Really pleased with the Go-Race unit, no play whatsoever unlike the LifeLine I replaced.
Guy- 1
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13 minutes ago, John Vine said:
Just for clarification, that cover is over the layshaft rather than the selector shaft
Thanks for the correction John, it would be very difficult to change gear if the selector shaft was in the bottom of the box 🤭
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9 minutes ago, Gridgway said:
Is it possible to convert to lower spherical bush rather than trunnions? Sounds a step too far for me at the moment, but interesting to note.
It can be done but replacement uprights & lower wishbones are required & some say it “upsets” the geometry (castor),
Give me some time for the dimensions (wife wants to go out for a meal ).
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Dzus wing fasteners for nose cone?
in TechTalk
Posted
Just bin them, they are not needed.