Guy Lowe

I would also be interested in this, if I get my head back & rebuilt in time 🤑

I have a 30 year old S3 with the original AP master cylinder (new seals 10 years ago) and my pedal is great, only 1/2”  travel, solid as a rock and perfect for heeling & toeing. People who have driven my car often comment on how good the brakes are for standard set up. 

12 minutes ago, Wrightpayne said:

 

Personally, I wouldn’t put washing up liquid anywhere near engineered components. 
 

I can only assume GB was being facetious

 

Probably not, it’s quite common to use soap to assist with fitting rubber components that are a tight fit as it doesn’t affect the rubber where as lubricants like oil and grease will. However you only need a smear imo. 
 

ETA: You could always use red rubber grease but that’s messy and hangs about attracting dirt and carp. 

20 minutes ago, Nigel Riches said:

Nice tin bashing here Guy, I saw your post on the other page we use, and I have a sheet of this stuff in the shed, especially as the starter has started to emit a strange noise on cranking, possibly too late now, more fun and games, I seem to spend more time mucking about sorting things than driving it.

Hi Nigel, It’s really easy to bend, I just rolled it round a large bottle on my bench and you can cut it with a good pair of scissors or tin snips.

10 hours ago, JP said:

Wow, my primaries are from Powerspeed c.2002 and seem fine and that's after 14 years of no use being stored in a draughty barn...but with no wrap...

Mine have been fine since I removed the wrap 😃

1 hour ago, Ainsley said:

Rusting !

That's not good, is that because the wrapping held moisture and that caused the rusting ?  I'm curious as I'm planning on wrapping my pipes.

Don't they get so hot any moisture is evaporated very quickly ?

Not really sure on either question, my primaries are Cheesman so good quality stainless steel. I had them wrapped from new for about 4 years when a fellow owner (Phil Waters) warned me about the problem he had, so I removed the wrap and there was definitely signs of rust and they were very badly pitted. Took a fair bit of aggressive polishing to clean them up.

I gave up with wrapping the primaries as they starting rusting (stainless 🙄) have now made a shield with Nimbus double layer from  Merlin Motorsport

p.s. Image taken when primaries removed. 

Loads on eBay or SBFS or Redline

I also use the Longacre but only the 30lb model so I can read it without having to find my glasses 🤓 Which ever one you buy, get one with a swivel valve stem attachment , so much easier to use/connect. 

Morning Dan, back home now you have 3 private messages (images too big). 

Hi Dan, I have a set of 13 x 6 Ford fitment 23 o/s but only 2 of the tyres are any good. I’m away until Tuesday so can send/post images then if they are any use to you.

Old images below 

G'day, mate 

I always use an old first motion shaft (input shaft for the younger members), cannot get on with the plastic carp ones as they allow too much play and don’t align properly. R&R always have a few old ones hanging about. 

Speak to Chris at REDLINE

Evening David

I fitted one about a year ago, very simple took about 30 minutes. No real issues (I don’t have a steering lock) but just be careful passing it through the top and bottom bushes, I sprayed mine liberally with Silicone spray and it slide in nicely 😜

Really pleased with the Go-Race unit, no play whatsoever unlike the LifeLine I replaced. 
Guy

5 hours ago, Iamscotticus said:

If it's possible to get dimensions of the oval cutout, the distance down from the top and the distance from the front that would be great.

SORRY completely forgot, I will try and get the nose off & vernier on it later. 

13 minutes ago, John Vine said:

Just for clarification, that cover is over the layshaft rather than the selector shaft

Thanks for the correction John, it would be very difficult to change gear if the selector shaft was in the bottom of the box 🤭

As JK says this is quite common, normally leaks from the end of the selector shaft, I had R&R fit a cover over the shaft, no leaks since.

9 minutes ago, Gridgway said:

Is it possible to convert to lower spherical bush rather than trunnions?  Sounds a step too far for me at the moment, but interesting to note.

It can be done but replacement uprights & lower wishbones are required & some say it “upsets” the geometry (castor),

Give me some time for the dimensions (wife wants to go out for a meal ). 

That’s completely different to my (old) set up, my ARB went through the link & had a bolt & Y9 bush like Paul _w’s drawings so this probably won’t help 😟

These drawings were given to me by John at Redline about 20years ago, they are for imperial S3 with sticks.I hope they help.

Guy

Hi John PM sent

I went through this exercise a couple of years ago and after a lot of research I purchased the Caterham specific Scroth harnesses which CC fit to their race cars.

I was advised by Dave Kimberly at Demon Tweeks and many helpful members on here, I am very pleased with them, they where big money but DaveK gave me a good deal and they have proved to be well worth the extra cash.  Easy to adjust, soft webbing and removable buckles amongst other features and the Luke/Caterham 6 point crutch straps fit the Scroth buckle..

 Trying to post link to original post, give me a minute 😃
 

TRY THIS

1 hour ago, Jonathan Kay said:

If you want to keep the original senders you'll either have to use gauges that are already known to be appropriate or find the resistance ranges of the senders and then work from that as part of the specification.

There is some information on this in the forums but I've never seen it collated.

Is your current (!) set-up the factory Stack? 213 Performance have been very helpful.

And I'd talk to Redline.

Do you need any wiring diagrams?

Jonathan

I thought the OP was wanting to change to mechanical 🤔