No Nuts

They're great! Thanks Kate 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 NN 😳

Kit Kat anyone? 😬 NN 😳

Just wanted to add my thanks to Barbara and Roger for organising a super day, it was nice to be back, if only for the one event for the time being. Thanks too to Gordy, Karen and Nifty for spotting me at the petrol station on the way back and arranging refreshments. 'twas a splendid day. Oh, and the suntan has come along nicely too! Guy NN 😳

Yes, interested in T shirt please BB. Size XL please. Guy NN 😳

I can understand the move to 1b tyres nationally as in '03 we had a 1b runner slip into the 1a classes in the AEMC c'ship a couple of times (still beat him on 1a's though!). I think the AEMC was one of the exceptions in still not allowing 1b's, until this year, in the road classes (does that make sense?). Long live 1a's in the L7C sprints though. As a fairly high mileage road driver (10K plus a year) I just can't afford 1b's. I like to drive on much the same tyres all of the time and haven't got the space and resource (being a non trailer user too) to keep 1b's and 1a's. I must however try these 1b's sometime though (the stickiest tyre I've ever used on the 7 is a 21r!). Also, if you're using super sticky ACB10s are you heading into needing a dry sump territory? Guy NN 😳 Edited by - No Nuts on 11 Mar 2005 14:28:49

Aww shucks, thanks Richard, thanks Graham. No, not a full season this year. I've not registered for the championship and will only be doing a few sprints. Looking forward to getting back into minor circulation though. 😬 Guy NN 😳

Online intent form completed (splendid idea). Hard copy in the post tomorrow. Fingers crossed! If crossing not sufficient - more than happy to commentate! Guy NN 😳

Eeek, sorry if I have caused any offence in this, 'twas not my inttention. I've not been in the loop and rarely get to BC these days. My understanding at the start of 2004 was that the rules on things like ECU's and stuff for class 2 would be changed for 2005 but if that's not the case then I do have something to look forward to next year! Yippee! Sorry if everyone else is taking this so seriously or misinterpreting my posts. I apologise for the thread hijack. If the 1800 boys want to produce silly engines for class 2/3 then that's up to them. I think maybe it's best for me to go away again now. ☹️ Guy NN 😳 Edited by - No Nuts on 18 Sep 2004 14:23:53

Richard, I appreciate what you are saying and yes, the MEMS is very easy to police. But as I understand, it will "learn" what the engine is capable of. At this time, I have no desire to modify anything internally on my engine as reliability is key for me. I don't want the experience that Colin had last year with his head problems after what I understand was a fairly minor modification. Yes, I feel it's a bit unfair as I am about the only person in class 2 on an emerald but it's not a magic way of producing more power - current figures are 143bhp, that's with 52mm tb, 632 cams (I think) verniers and powerspeed exhaust. I'd love more, woudn't we all, but I have to cut my cloth and all that. The decision to go with the DVA K02 supersport upgrade was made bacause it was cheaper than the Caterham upgrade. I think the MEMS Supersport ECU (which has no potential to be retained for future upgrades) is £600 alone. So that would, to my mind, have been £600 wasted on something that would not have been able to be used for anything else. I'll keep fighting the corner for programmable ecu's in classes 2 and 3 as they can only take advantage of the physical aspects of the engine, you cannot program more power than the engine is physically capable of delivering now can you? Guy NN 😳

Hi Folks, been away a while and if I do compete next year it will only be occasionally and on a very tight budget. It would be nice to come back though! Anyway, I see the good old class 2 debate goes on. Just a few points to bear in mind: 1. How do you police internal engine mods? 2. What is the reason for class 2 & 3? - I think this is the big one. My assumption is that it is a (relatively) low cost slass. 3. Bear in mind that with the 1600K in standard 115bhp format you are penalising, cost wise, people who want to go for a non Caterham upgrade to Super Sport spec. 4. Most who drive in class 2 & 3 use their cars on a regular basis, so they need to be driveable on the roads but above all reliable ❗. Having a competitive class 4/5 car is a completely different ball park in terms of cost and reliability. 5. Naturally I would say that I feel discrimination against those who have taken a non Caterham upgrade route from 115bhp spec to super sport spec is, well, rather unsporting. 6. 1800 K's should be allowed in the class whether they are standard Caterham "supersports" or otherwise, so long as they are running plenums. 7. It's easy to police regulations if you are looking for something obvious like plenum chambers and throttle bodies. Policing other mods surely increases complexity, cost and potential for disagreement. I've no idea what plans are for the classes so apologies if this covers old ground. If there are plans for a meeting to discuss this, please let me know. Regards to all, I missed competing against you all this year! Well done Graham on what sounds like an excellent season yet again. Guy NN 😳 Edited by - No Nuts on 18 Sep 2004 10:59:57

Graham, you're a gentleman sir, thanks! Reply has wung its way to you via email. 😬 Guy NN 😳

Graham, can you email me an address to post it to you please? Any chance of getting the engraver to correct the spelling of my name? Cheers Guy NN 😳 Edited by - No Nuts on 2 Sep 2004 17:31:20

Hi Barbara. Apologies but I'm not able to help out at Curborough next weekend much as I'd love to. ☹️ Guy NN 😳

Thanks All. First thoughts, even with just the near side changed (had to get the car back together to go out on Saturday) is that the steering is considerably lighter and less notchy. But then I only did 200 miles over the weekend so time will tell! Glad to see the petulance wore off Paul, hope the head wasn't too sore after to booze! 😬 So, just need to get myself a slightly beefier 7/32 alan key and we're away! Guy NN 😳

Hey hey Paul, sorry! Calm down! I've been fettling the car (so have not been on here) and also as your post immediately followed Stewart's I though the question was for him, hence I didn't answer in my next reply. Apologies for any confusion! My car is late 2000 (2001 Academy) so Richard was pretty much spot on. Narrow track. Whipping wishbones off is a real doddle (about a 15 minute job each way) so this is the easiest way to get at the bearings for me. I've managed to change the near side one but have had to use the original spring clip as the circlip did not fit snugly in the groove. I have a few spares so will try fettling them to make them fit but I don't have time right now (the 7 is my only roadworthy transport at the moment). Off side is a bit more of a problem as I can't get the bolt out of the bottom of the shock - I need a tougher 7/32 alan key, just off shopping now. So thanks everybody, especially Paul for your help. I can probably manage from here on in now I know what I'll find in there! 😬 Guy NN 😳

Stewart. Damn, I have the wire(ish) rings. However, getting them out seems a fairly destructive process. I'll see if I can re-flatten the one I have removed. I was hoping the circlip fouling the ball was due to grot stopping it seating properly in the wishbone. So, does this mean the sphericals won't fit either? We'll see tomorrow. Guy NN 😳

Oooh look, I turned over the page in the assembly guide and lo, spacers for wide track are mentioned. You never stop learning do you? 😬 Guy NN 😳

Aha! I reckon that once I get the wishbones off and the sphericals pressed out in the vice, and everything cleaned up nicely, it should all go back together OK. I hope! Guy NN 😳

Right, well that was simply a complete cock up. 1. What spacer? I can't see where it can go? This means there has never been one on the car. Nothing was mentioned in the post build check, assuming this bit was checked. I quote from the build manual: "3.5 b) The front upright assemblies, which are marked left and right, slot into the spherical joint in the lower wishbone. ...(stuff about top ball joint)... c) The bottom of the upright is secured using a 1/2" nyloc nut which is tightened to 40 lbft. Check that the upright swivels freely when tightened." No mention of any spacer there. 2. I'm going to have to take the wishbones off anyway as I can't get sufficient access to thwack the ball joints out. 3. The current ball joints, sorry, spherical joints, were held in by single use spiral clips (for want of a better description), not circlips. Having tried to insert one of the new circlips in a vain attempt to put all back together the circlip now fouls the ball joint (the ball itself). 4. I've subsequently learned there are two depths of ball joint (hence the probable lack of spacers on my car). I hope to hell the new ones I've got will fit!! Fun and games, fun and games! Ta for all the help chaps. Guy NN 😳 Edited by - No Nuts on 23 Jul 2004 17:20:09

Lordy, is it really a month already? Guy NN 😳

Guy NN 😳

Richard So, should I expect the life span of them to be about 40K miles? Guy NN 😳

Simon They're not worn, just very stiff. I first suspected the steering rack so greased that profusely. When that didn't fix the stiff steering - it was a gradual increase in stiffness so I only really noticed when I was getting cross with myself for driving so jerkily - by a process of elimination I suspected the lower ball joints (the top links were changed not that long ago). I dropped some 3 in 1 into the ball joints and hey presto, free steering again (what a joy!). This was effective for a couple of days and then they went dry again. So, I've been tipping 3 in 1 into them for the last couple of months and have finally got around to getting some new ones! There is no play in the steering as such though. So, if you have play, suspect the top links (a good side to side shove of the front of the car will show this up) or the track rod ends (clonking when wiggling the steering wheel or manhandling the front wheels side to side will show this up). HTH Guy (who's really off to work on the car now!) NN 😳 Edited by - No Nuts on 23 Jul 2004 14:36:16

Splendid! Bit worried about the self lubing bit, I'll probably add a smidgen of grease anyway, the current ones have only done 45K miles. Mind you, they've outlived the top links and rod ends! Just off to fettle now! Guy NN 😳

Right, I have two new ball joints in my hand! Before I dash outside and start tearing the front of the car apart, are there any wotchas and gotchas to changing these? My concerns are: 1. That the old ones won't just slide out once I have removed the retaining circlip. 2. That the new ones will need to be pressed in (difficult with the wishbone attached and the car on a jack maybe?). 3. The new ones seem quite "dry". I assume a little bearing grease won't go amiss? Anything else I should prepare for? Ta muchly for any hints and tips. Guy NN 😳