No Nuts

Eugene 'fraid so - turning up to meetings in a sopping wet suit (wetsuit?!) is not a good idea! NN blush.gif Edited by - No Nuts on 11 Feb 2002 21:15:32

Thanks Mark I think it is the same. I did a bit more fiddling yesterday and have come up with a rather nice shape to the hood using just the main hoop. Tonight I put the poppers on round the boot space =:-0 BCNU NN blush.gif

I've just got hold of some weather gear for the 7 - must be going soft in my old age. It's the type supplied by Caterham Midlands (formerly CCC) to clear the tall FIA bars / cages. Do any of you have this gear? My problem is the positioning of the hood sticks. I have found a position that gives the hood a good shape but it renders the small "inner" stick redundant. Basically the roll over bar itself provides support for the top of the hood and the larger of the two sticks then goes about where the smaller stick would on standard weather gear - in line with the stitched darts where the hood "turns the corner" at the roof / rear panel interface. I just want to check this is right before I commit to poppers in the hood around the back of the car!!! Any info would be much appreciated. BCNU NN blush.gif

Indeed Chris - whoops, there goes another one! NN blush.gif

Chris I've just fixed a similar problem with my 1.6K. It was a duff sensor so it may be worth checking this too. It's located on the water rail running down the near side of the engine. It's at the rear of the rail and has a single wire going to it with a spade connector. Before replacing mine, I checked to make sure it wasn't an earthing problem (current to earth runs thru the water rail / engine earth). To do this: - unplug the wire from the sensor - ignition on - with a suitable scrap piece of wire connect (touch) the wire just removed to the casing of the sensor (the brass(?) bit) - temp guage should shoot round to max If this doesn't happen, then the sensor may be OK and it may be an earthing problem. Touch the wire mentioned above to: - engine - chassis - battery negative (if the guage does not respond with FULL deflection then it could be that up the spout). in that order which should give you a clue where the problem lies. Hope this helps and sorry response is a bit late, just trying to get my number of posts up ;-) BCNU NN blush.gif

Thanks guys. I don't plan racing the 7 again after the Academy this year. Maybe I'll race something else one day but my 7's too precious!! I preferred the sprints and hillclimb which is why I've gone for the 720s. Thanks for the ride height warning. Hopefully shouldn't be too bad as the car was set quite high anyway to avoid running on the bump stops at the front. See you all at Curborough next year. NN blush.gif Edited by - No Nuts on 12 Dec 2001 18:41:48

Hi All getting shot of my shot Academy control tyres (Avon CR 322s) tomorrow for some Bridgestone RE 720s. Have been running the 322s at 35 psi front and 31 psi rear - yes, you do read correctly, it's the only way to get the damn things to stick to the road. If anybody can explain the logic, I'm all ears. I have a teensy feeling this may be a bit high for the 720's and was going to go for something like 26 / 22 as the starting point. Any suggestions? Tyre pressure related or otherwise if you like!! BCNU NN blush.gif

Tootling round the local petrol stations in search of Super Unleaded last night made me aware of Shell's new Optimax. I called the Shell helpline and they advise it is a 98RON replacement for their Super Unleaded (which I understand from other topics here is 97RON). It's ULS too. I've been running normal unleaded in my 2001 Academy car (bog standard 1.6K) all season but have been prsuaded of the safety of moving to a higher octane. Does anyone have any comments on Optimax? Thanks Guy NN blush.gif