slap_ed

Hi Charles, So is this the metric equivalent to a 1/4"unf?. Will these go through the original rack clamp holes? cheers

I need to fit longer bolts through my steering rack clamps due to raising the level of the rack. I'm having difficulty finding some 4" x 1/4" unf cap head bolts. I can get some standard hex bolts at this length but these only have a tensile strength of 8.8 as opposed to 13 for the cap head type. My question is how risky would would this be using this strength of bolt? Or does anybody know where I could get this ideal 4" x 1/4" cap head bolt from? Cheers

Hi AntonyH First dibs accepted until Monday night. cheers

For sale 4 x brand new 195/45/15 CR500's. Plus a free part worn CR 500 with decent tread. Bought these but decided to go down the Toyo R1R route. Collection only £400 Staffordshire area.

The name given by Caterham to the red of my 2009 Roadsport is Exocet Red. I too would like to know the name of an equivalent off the shelf Red. Ideas anyone?

I did this with the tank 3/4 full which was a bit silly. The steel float arm disconnects from the pump body quite easily. I bent it so the float position ended up approx 1" lower and to help the float utilise the full travel I also rotated the pump body with float towards the front of the car, but be careful because going too far will cause the float to foul the rear tank wall. It was purely guesswork, but it seemed to do the job. When I fill the tank the gauge pointer now stays at the full mark for a lot longer before it starts to drop. I actually ran this first tankful low, to the point where the next morning it wouldn't start. The gauge pointer was at bottom of the red empty marker. I need to record mileage and litreage next time so I can confirm my initial findings. One thing you can't do (well not easily) is adjust the fuel pick up point. The car will run out of fuel at the same point before and after this adjustment. This method makes the indicated fuel levels a bit more believable. But it's early days yet, I'll need to replicate this a few times to convince myself.

Sigma 150 2009 The accuracy of my fuel gauge was something that kept bugging me. Mine would drop a little too quickly and arrive in the red sector prematurely, then It was always, shall I, shan't I fill it up, or dare I risk it a little further? I removed the fuel pump from the tank and slightly bent the float arm downwards. This allowed the fuel level to get lower before the gauge read empty. It's early days yet and I haven't had much time to test the results yet but it appears to be much better. Now it stays on full for longer and runs out of fuel on or near the bottom of the red sector. I need to test this further as I didn't record the miles covered or how many litres I got back in. Haven't used the car much but will report back when things are a bit clearer.

Thanks everybody. I think I'll go down the route of Toyo R1R's. Is £70 about what people pay? Thanks revilla for that informative reply, very useful. I have 45 profile at the moment, I take it 50 profile wouldn't foul the mudguard stays? I like the idea of having another 10mm of sidewall depth to help in the suspension department.

Dave Now I know that Caterham don't fit their tyres, that explains why they work out cheaper. BMTR have quoted me £548 for a set of four fitted. I'd love to fit cheaper ones but know I won't be happy. Have many people been successful in get these swapped by Avon because of this splitting? Cheers

Yes 15" (195/45/15) Mine have been cracked for a few years now and have lived with the reason of its "just cosmetic" . It's only now that they've failed an MOT. The MOT station said that if you can see the cords within the crack then they fail and are dangerous. I'd rather spend £40 to £50 on Toyo T1R's but people talk about the tyre being too stiff and not as grippy. You get what you pay for I suppose

Hi all, Have Avon solved the cracking of the CR500 sidewalls? I've just had an MOT failure on 3 of the 4 tyres with a note "This vehicle is dangerousness to drive" I know there are a few other tyre choices but when you have confidence in a tyre (obviously not the sidewalls) then why change, other than the stupid price? Caterham appear to have some in stock. Does the price include fitting? Graham

Hi I have the same sigma 150. I too tend to set the idle speed to around 1000 rpm and balance the air intake for each of the four trumpets. The little grub screw and lock nuts allow all four to be individually balanced. After that the TPS needs to be set to the correct voltage which I think is 1.03 volts (memory). Adjusting any one of these areas has a knock on effect with the others so you might need to go back and re-tweak the others. Then disconnect the battery for a few minutes and then re-connect. If you get it right then it should tick over smoothly and run sweet as a nut. Touch wood... Mines never been a problem and runs beautifully. Best of luck

As RedCat7 says. It's probably down to the throttle bodies. I have the same spec 150 2009 and it runs as sweet as a nut with no hesitation. (Love it) I think if you balance each throttle port air intake (not just each pair) and set the TPS to the correct voltage, I'm sure it will go a long way to fixing that problem. Also, how many miles have your plugs done? It might be worth checking the gaps, although they don't tend to need any adjustment. Graham

Hi Stu/Roy/Sharon, Yes it was me. Sorry, can't remember any lights being flashed though. Just on my regular trip to Curborough then back through Lichfield to Tamworth. Cheers all Graham

Hi all, Same Sigma engine. I emailed Opie with the same question last year thinking a 40 grade oil would offer better protection when hot than a 30. Their reply was to use the correct 5w-30 grade but to use something like Fuchs Titan Race Pro. The other slight negative effects of a more viscous 40 grade is slightly more drag on the engine.

Hi Stuart & Sue, Ah so that was you was it? Sorry, looked through the side screen (bit scratched) plus you too were wrapped up pretty well meant I drove passed you both thinking, now who was that. Sorry again but 8 miles, pretty impressive stuff. Cheers Graham

Hi all Had the same problem with my oil gauge. It had split, probably due to being slightly overtightened when fitted. I just super glued it and re-fitted it without doing the securing nuts up too tight. Still ok, glued it about 3 months ago. Graham

Hi all, Providing the concentration/mixture is up to full strength, the antifreeze part will last indefinitely. It's the corrosion inhibitors etc which looks after the internals that become less effective. So renewing it is the best bet. Cheers Graham

Hi Stuart, Yes a beautiful day. Got back home and we both went for a drive around Cannock Chase. Good to see you as well. Loved the seats by the way.

Hi, On my Sigma150 the ECU kicks the fan in at 101 deg and runs until this temperature drops by only 2 or 3 degrees. If my memory serves me correctly, for every 1lbs pressure on the expansion vessel cap this will equate to an additional 1.5 deg C over boiling point. I'm not sure what the lbs rating is on my cap but I've had the car for over 2 years without any cooling issues. I have the MBE kit that plugs into the ECU via a plug under the dash, which is very useful for monitoring these sort of things whilst driving or at tickover in the garage. Hope this helps Regards Graham

I now understand what needs to be done so thanks to Paul, M-B and Redcat7 for your comments. Cheers

Am I right in thinking..... The air bleed screws are/should normally be in the fully closed position. Firstly the left pair and the right pair are balanced using the central screw located between both of the throttle body pairs. If cylinders 1 and 2 intakes are out of balance then the only way to balance these is to use the appropriate air bleed screw bypass to increase the air flow into the cylinder as these two butterflies are not physically adjustable individually. The same with cylinders 3 and 4. The engine's basic tickover is controlled by the butterflies being held slightly open and nothing to do with air through the air bleed screws. Obviously they would all have to be open for this to happen. I appreciate that there are other things to set whilst doing the above ie throttle pot etc, but I'm just trying to understand how the throttle body adjustments work. Hope this makes sense. Or am I barking up the wrong tree? Cheers all

Throttle Bodies Thanks for the replies. I have a flow meter and have managed to balance them as a left pair and a right pair. Now I want to balance the two on the left and then the two on the right. Going by the picture I've attached above, am I right in thinking that I've identified the air bleed screws correctly and are these used to balance the air intake of say the right hand pair? Does this adjusting screw allow air to bypass the butterfly or does it open the butterfly? Cheers all Edited by - slap_ed on 28 Oct 2012 17:37:50 Edited by - slap_ed on 28 Oct 2012 17:42:13

Throttle Bodies Edited by - slap_ed on 27 Oct 2012 09:56:44 Edited by - slap_ed on 27 Oct 2012 10:01:07

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