Sandboy

Thanks ECR, battery and wiring ok, not condeming ecu until eliminated everything else, CPS gives 538 ohms but don't know if that is good or bad, think will open another thread on testing CPS.

Need help trying to diagnose lack of spark, on last run out car died a few times, couldn't hear pump prime so changed fuel pump relay and car started again and got me home but then wouldn't start at weekend. Again couldn't hear pump prime so replaced pump relay again but no joy, shorted relay and pump ran with plenty fuel flow at rail although haven't checked with pressure gauge, so began to think fuelling a red herring, although just occurred to me that perhaps should check whether injectors firing. Moved onto spark next but not getting one and so wondering what should check next, crank sensor or coil, ecu or something else? Trying to be methodical but limited experience of fault diagnosis so would really appreciate some pointers on what to check, how to test and best sequence. Got a sprint at Three Sisters at weekend and really don't want to miss so any advice gratefully received. Engine is xe with omex ecu.

Volker, i'll take it if you'll accept £150 delivered, if ok blatmail payment details and i'll reply confirming when payment made with address?

Just overhauled rears due to seized slider pins and with new ones installed and greased there is still a small amount of play but nothing worried about since piston will be in contact with pad and pads aren't free to go anywhere. When trial fitted slider pins into calliper without grease there was noticeable play so perhaps yours just need a clean and re grease and will be fine. I bought new set from BigRed along with seal kit (includes rubber bellows which go over slider pins) and they supplied a couple of sachets of silicone grease for sliders, £55 delivered next day. Other thing that occurs is are the bolts all tight, as well as those holding hanger onto ear there are those in ends of slider which connect calliper and hanger? Plenty of calliper assemblies on eBay, best price was £160 for a new pair. Hand brake was a mystery to me but solved with aid of blatchat - there are a couple of large plastic adjuster nuts on the cable in front of diff before they disappear into tunnel, these need released to create slack in the cable (needs quite a bit of turning to give enough slack) which will allow room to get cable ends over hook on caliper. By the way calliper overhaul straight forward, plenty of how to videos on YouTube to give confidence so if going to dismantle for slider pins might as well do seals while about it. Good luck.

fit deep backplate like this one here will give more room for trumpets, even deeper ones available - compatible with pipercross filter.

looks like someone has already done that presumably to cure play previously. but solution going for is some oversized bearings, can get them with same ID but slightly larger OD +1.2mm, slightly more expensive than std bearings but a lot less than new hubs. fingers crossed.

you have blatmail Ben.

Mankee, ben without for a couple of years now so not high priority, can wait and thanks for offer - must count as most premtive first dibs!

SM25T, had crossed my mind too but think tolerance too great, had read somewhere that bearing lock ok if a couple of thou' and definitely more that that.

marginal then although not that much in it over price of std but love a challenge so going to see how get on with sleeving before open wallet, will post on success or otherwise.

cheers Shad & SM25T, upgrade budget already spent this winter but if need to go new will give it consideration, what benefit do they supposedly provide?

Anybody got a pair of these left over after hub upgrade, discovered mine have play in bearing bearing up housings per techtalk post?

Surely (stop calling me shirley) the fixings are to a std template otherwise every hood/tonneau/boot cover would be bespoke and even cc must have adopted some of Henry fords ideas! I'll hold out for a bit longer, it's only for trailering in the rain so not too fussy, wouldn't drive with it on, don't even like half doors, but thanks for helping keep near top.

Not to worry, thanks anyway. Given the other issues come across I.e. Stripped threads on top wishbone, siezed rear calipers and now play in front bearing cup housings, diverting funds to these instead and Speedo drive will just have to wait, the little holux does a good enough job now.

expect bearing cup is meant to be interference fit in hub and therefore play not good, options - a) list wanted for hubs, b) buy new from cc or c) use oversized bearing or sleeve in machined hub - options a) & b) the easier route but wonder if c) is viable and whether anyone has done it, if so would appreciate benefit of experience?

Elie, slider rubbers all present and correct but pins still siezed in, but then rear brakes not had any maintenance other than check for paid wear or seal damage in 10 years, lesson learnt and annual lubing added to maintenance list. T7, if I screw up overhaul good to know price of new ones is dropping.

popped the pistons out with hydraulic pump and they're servicable and the real issue was the slider pins, not been kept sufficiently lub'd by moi - caliper and hanger blasted up nicley so seals kit, slider and bolts kit, silicone grease sachets ordered from bigred, £55 inc 1st class post, great service - back on car this weekend. Don't let fear of the unknown hold you back!

Anyone?

thanks for feedback, thinking about it lost too much metal just to tap and not sure helicoil an option, new ones only £66 so not to painfull.

everything than can go wrong is going wrong - thread in wishbone for ball joint crossed on both sides, would imagine was obvious to the person installing - not me by the way! Anyway are the wishbones scrap or could they be tapped out safely?

thanks for replies, deffo siezed - windback tool not making any impact, encoraged by step by step on bigred to have a go - but with seals, pistons and slider bolts going to be nearer £60, still a decent saving and since rest of car as equally neglected suspect going to need it.

explains the worse than usual barking performance - siezed pistons and slider on standard rear brakes, believed to be of sierra origin! option one, buy replacement assembly circa £200 (cc don't have stock but several on ebay), option two overhaul £60 plus sense of achievement. Any recommendations/advice appreciated, don't want to go down overhaul route only to have to buy replacements anyway - been there done that?

so I was barking up the wrong tree, cheers T7.

It'll seem obvious once enlightened but at moment it's being a pain. Thought it was just a case of removing return spring, rotate lever and cable will free from hook,but lever fouls on hub, what am I missing other than taking file/grinder to lever?

Thanks Ian, removed circlip but joint didn't want to budge, didn't want to apply too much force until had some feedback, will search the archives - it was late when got in from garage and not thinking straight.