Pendennis

Hi Neil sent you an email, the new one make is unknown

I have two of these three wire type sitting in garage doing nothing. One is new, never been used. The other has but is fully functional as was in my box of race spares. The used one is a Colvern and believe the new type is a Wabash.

They fit Jenvey TBs but probably are universal figment.

How about £20 each?

For S3 with handbrake in tunnel

I suspect it works like a three port valve, thus always maintains full flow irrespective of thermostatic position without any resistance so no decrease in pressure drop

There is newly refurbished set of 8 spoke Anthracite on LCB maybe above your budget?

Hi John, it will be straight forward, as Mocul instructions, but personally if your car is predominately road going I could not see any need for any oil cooling. Why don't you simply remove the present sandwich plate and see what temperatures you maintain?

Ged, mines no. 7, does NOT have separate damper/wishbone mount but does have anti-dive front suspension. Great car, chassis is fantastic

Used in the past but perfectly useable again

£18.00 posted

Yes Toby email me

durabang at sky dot com

For an S3, bought off here few years back as a spare but never got used so may as well try and sell. It has two air ducts on RH driver side, these have been professionally fabricated and both have spigots on the inside of the nose, these being approximately 70mm diameter. The nose cone is black with a purple band, appreciate it's not everyone's cup of tea so how about £70.00

Not saying you should do this, but this is what I do.

Hone, crack test Pistons, crank, rods and cams.

Replace rings, all bearings, head bolts, gaskets, valves, valve spring, collets and cam chain. You could weigh the rods and Pistons try and get equal weights across the four, balance the bottom end but the cranks are very good out the box and I'm not convinced it's worth the expense.

If cam chain guides are worn I'd replace them, also check tensioner has been modified. I'd reuse the rod and crank bolts again presuming they've only been torqued the once, obviously replacement is ideal depends on your budget. Good luck

Sounds like ABS then

Hi Gareth, would these be alloy, cloth, ABS, GRP or Carbon fibre etc..?

Not heard anything so presume your mate not interested so still for sale

Yes, if the master cylinder is failing it would affect front or rear only, dependent upon which of its seals is failing. But it would affect both wheels whether that front or rear.

Not sure I personally have understood your comment about different brake forces, are you stating the front left is significantly different from front right? If you are then you've either got a caliper issue, however you could have a blockage in the pipe feeding the caliper but that would be unlucky, although you should be able to flush the debris through. Yep wait and see what AP report

Thanks but they are not Tillets!

They haven't mate done that already

Sorry I thought there was a difference between the two. Thought the Uprated would still work if a failure occurred in the front or rear, thus two different circuits meaning front or rear would initially work, but not continually. Is that the case for the standard set up as well?

Sorry I thought there was a difference between the two. Thought the Uprated would still work if a failure occurred in the front or rear, thus two different circuits meaning front or rear would initially work, but not continually. Is that the case for the standard set up as well?

Depends which master cylinder you have, if it's the Uprated type (red cable tie) then there are two circuits (front & rear), but if it's the standard single circuit type then you have a point

Hi Alan, not sure why your dismissing the master cylinder failing? Have you installed a new one ?

It would appear to me an hydraulic issue as you stated in your very first post, only apparent when everything gets warm and up to temperature. If there is an issue with the fluid itself, or seals whether calipers or master cylinder it would only become apparent to you as the fluid is pressurised and warms up.

I had a similar issue which kept coming and going, I always thought it was the fluid as only apparent when it warmed up. Everytime it came I flush the fluid through, each time matters initially improved until eventually I suffered dramatic fade with vibration, I was convinced the feeling the pedal gave me was a leak as the pressure on pedal come and go. When I got out the car and investigated, nothing was evident which made me decide the only cause possible could be the master cylinder, which it was.

I distinctively remember the feeling transferred back through the pedal, it wasn't the spongy feel you get when there's air or fluid boiling, it was jumpy although I did suffer pedal travel. However, my Cat is a race car so appreciate you will not be stamping on the pedal like I am.

Either way your get it sorted, be interested to know what the actual problem is.

In GRP for S3

Yep no problem mate

Brand new never fitted from Caterham. Full tonneau cover for SLR caged S3. Zip down middle, it does NOT have Tillet seat pockets.

£85.00