Pendennis

Hi, you do NOT need to return your chassis back to Arch for bush welding as you can secure a bracket to the rear bulkhead which would enable new and correct harness position for your hans. Have you obtained the relevant information regarding correct position and angles? In my experience you have to get it spot on otherwise it is uncomfortable, useless, unsafe and a complete waste of money. Took me few attempts to get harness position correct then there was the angle of harness security to ensure they pulled the hans into your shoulder. Once correct it feels correct!

Your helmet could easily have posts screwed in, also make sure when buying a hans the angle suits your seating position, plus the neck width is correct. No point compromising or cutting corners your regret it trust me

Mark, give Piero of XPower a ring in Essex

Steve, they getting tougher and tougher there these days. Track days midweek are getting a waste of time for powerful Seven, I personally would keep clear of them. You could spend fortune on induction and exhaust noise reduction but still get thrown off. Test days are also becoming difficult so my advice is check noise limits when booking as they do vary and not have knee jerk reaction to Mr noise plod

Very reliable, repaired mine in two places two years ago no leaks ever re materialised

Metal weld paste will sort it, easy fix

Wide track is and has to be an improvement over narrow track, those that report no difference experienced highlights they have not got a set up to gain any advantage. Wide track allows a more aggressive set up and will give the front end more bite but as always correct geometry dependent otherwise it's a waste of time. Spring rates are so subjective, individual preference, use of car and style of driving are factors, as such there is no 'rule of thumb'

Best advice I could offer is experiment, have a go and if you go wide track make geometry adjustments in castor, camber, rates and ride height accordingly.

Peace of cake.

A race car is mechanically maintained to a high regime, probably but debatably higher than a polishers car. No doubt there are many that constantly fettle their cars and those that just drive. Most if not all race cars have to be constantly maintained so don't be afraid by the 'race car' label.

This may of changed but pre 2000 any car is smoke test only, after that it emissions are tested and a CAt is required. That date may of changed to make a younger car more lenient

Not quite sure what your saying.

The Raceline one is aftermarket. Shallower initially designed for the 2.3 which was 13mm taller than the 2.0.I think your find it's a straight swap. Not sure what the centre hole in the Burton standard cam cover is for, sorry I didn't notice that at first.

If you want cheap one get one off eBay.

http://www.raceline.co.uk/products/part_section.asp?SectionID=1&CategoryID=1

Hi Andy, sent you an email, hopefully your receive it

Hi Jigsaw, I have just installed the new Hi Spec caliper and it's nothing like yours, it's on their website take a look if your interested. The spring return and retaining screw issues have clearly been addressed. You have to be prepared to make up bracketry for these calipers as they've not created a Caterham specific kit 

Really good pair of Caterham OE 7" headlights complete with OE wiring. These are Wipac units as original Caterham items. They are chrome.

£60.00

Thats fine Jonathan, thanks wrightpayne

I've just done it email me and I will send over my system.

Ian

durabang@sky.com

Hi anyone know what make the loom connectors are and where I could get them?

The Uprated MC has a red cable tie around it, of course that may of been cut off. There is an identification code on the MC body as well. The early Uprated MC reservoir mount was different from standard. If you decide your MC is at fault my advice would be buy the Uprated one seeing as you have the Uprated calipers. Redline don't or didn't when I asked (2016) provide the repair kit for the Uprated version, that is sourced via a motorsport team in North Wales of which the name I can't quite remember! 

I knew there was a reason why I did it the old fashioned way*rofl*

You wouldn't get any leaks if the seals were worn and letting by!

You just are unable to maintain pressure
 

Blimey, they are bad. What master cylinder you got and what fluid you using?

Blimey, they are bad. What master cylinder you got and what fluid you using?

You should never have squidgy pedals at any point either during or after assembly!!

It is not that important whether you do the inner or outer bleed first or second. As a rule of thumb the motor trade normally start furthest away from MC and work their way in, but it isn't that important on ours.

I will offer some advice, but there be plenty with differing views. You should bare in mind there is no guarantee the tyres are not passed their best.

Presuming your concentrating on slick use only and they are not shagged then you should go aggressive on the spring rate, obviously the front ARB needs to compliment the spring rate. Personally I would be looking 300-350 front & 150-180 rear.

If it is the same F3000 spec 13" Michelin slick that we all have used, they are a hard compound. They should be no higher than 21psi HOT, so start them at 16/17 cold and work them for 5/10 minutes before pushing hard. In my experience I never noticed any difference on the slippage between Radial/Crossply, if anything the Crossply bit more but hardly anything in it. Crossply certainly easier to get up to temperature.

The set up is very important to get the best from these tyres, front camber should be high circa 3.5 degrees and at least 2 degrees on the rear, Castor should be high to maintain camber on turn in, ride height low with rake set to suit corner weights. That is how I set it for you anyway, all the best and good luck.

Yep a tad chilly, My missus hates doing it but promise her a new handbag!

It's quite important to get those rear calipers up high, good luck

I only bleed the brakes the old fashioned way, never trust the new devices! Starting left rear, then right rear, left front then right front, always bleeding furthest away nipple from MC first, so last nipple is front right nearest to MC

There are many types of bias valve, but here is the CC version: https://caterhamparts.co.uk/other/2459-valve-brake-reducing-csr.html

They could be installed anywhere on the rear brake line, normally it's located either drivers or passenger footwell compartment near seating position. To be honest you'd know if you have one