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Dignity

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Everything posted by Dignity

  1. *arrowup*Yes The shape will also have an effect. I changed my carbon ones for adjustable ali and it pulled the torque curve back by 500rpm set at the same length. This gave 15bhp/ft. lbs extra at 5252rpm Some further reading here
  2. Thanks, I'll give them a try if nothing else turns up.
  3. Thanks SM25T. Any cheaper???
  4. I am looking to buy a new clutch to match up to a lightweight flywheel for a K series. Is this a CC only part or is there an alternative supplier? Thanks in Advance
  5. Cream with black nose John? Have you upgraded or ragging the 🙆🏻 off the courtesy car?
  6. I have had to replace both hubs. One was cracked an splitting apart more with each tightening of the bearing. The other was as Roger describes. It was the inner bearing. These were pre 2003 hubs. I would whip the hub off and inspect. If its just the bearings then you should be able to get them locally. I think they are off a Spitfire but search the archives. The part no. will be in there somewhere.
  7. Quoting Dignity: Quoting 11884: It would be nice if Caterham published what the foam is for to help people decide what is best for them. I understand that it is fitted to avoid aeration caused by windage? I guess some one could call them to find out.
  8. Quoting 11884: It would be nice if Caterham published what the foam is for to help people decide what is best for them. Edited after reading your post properly I understand that it is fitted to avoid aeration caused by windage? Edited by - Dignity on 20 Jan 2012 05:46:41
  9. Looks the same as mine. If it is you can pick one up from a local breakers. Rover/MG part I got one with the fuel pressure regulator fitted for a tenner Edit to add I have this one here but I would think that the same applies re breakers Edited by - Dignity on 14 Jan 2012 17:09:35
  10. Jason, If you do decide to go mechanical send me a BM as I have all the part no's for the Thinkauto set up. From memory its less than 50quid all in.
  11. Quoting Roadsport06: Thinkauto will supply a kit (mechanical setup) with a dial that matches very well. Change to this if you want something reliable and faster to respond to pressure changes. I did this Definitely the way to go IMO
  12. Quoting 6speedmanual: My car is heading away from 'stock'. 😬 Peter Peter, Get your coat Sir 😬 😬 😬
  13. James, Yes I was out on Boxing Day so may have been me. John 😬 No royalties sadly ☹️
  14. T'was I chauffering Andrew G around I remember seeing the Porshe
  15. Agree with the suck it and see approach. It was different for me. I had the old style (not Alloy) rad and it was obvious from the start that it wasnt going to cope. The fan was permanently on even driving like a Welsh cheese (Caerphilly). Dave Andrews explained that the engine runs hotter due to the extra compression. He may have mentioned 10% hotter but I can't be sure? Maybe someone can confirm that?
  16. 45mm is the core measurement. The other option would be to go Radtec which you can have the Temp sender in the Rad. CLICK HERE
  17. Its wider than my original 45mm as I recall ?
  18. Hi Mankee, One of the problems that I had was the ID of the pipe that runs through the middle of the silencer. So if you do get the tape out its worth measuring that as well. Regards Colin
  19. Hi Uncle, I have the R400 road type fitted see here Works efficiently with well over 200bhp. I did fit an 82 degree thermostat at the same time. When I upgraded the engine my original rad didn't cut the mustard Note that it doesn't have a temp sender fitted so the fan will need wiring into the ECU. Rgds Dignity
  20. Try 8,500rpm and 205/60x13. I think thats what Grubbsters revs to? Edited by - Dignity on 31 Dec 2011 17:13:15
  21. Peter, Is this a standard MG/Rover job???? If so your local breakers should be able to supply at a decent price
  22. Quoting Cookie Monster: & would 5ltrs suffice? Depends on Radiator size and whether you have a heater fitted. My handbook says 4.5 litres Add 0.6 litres for a heater Add 0.5 litres for a Triple pass rad Edited by - Dignity on 15 Dec 2011 00:56:45
  23. Local breakers should have these for a tenner Edited by - Dignity on 12 Dec 2011 10:55:29
  24. Quoting batteredoldsupersport: Having a lower change light simply for oil warming strikes me as a lot of work for not much benefit. A clever gadget, for sure, especially if you hooked it to a temp sensor so that it sorted it out for itself, but a gadget nonetheless. After all, a lower rev limit for cold oil isn't an absolute, it just means that you drive around like my Mum for the first few miles. The odd spell at 5000 rpm while overtaking is neither here nor there, even with cold oil, let's be honest. Boss, It's not a lot of work at all. Just fit the switch and plug the laptop in. On one map I have the Change Light set low but not the rev limiter so I can overtake/get out of trouble if I need to. Another map I have the Light and Limiter set a little below max to avoid the temptation to rag the engine all the time. Agreed it's not a massive benefit but the ECU is fitted anyway so why not use the features for the sake of a switch? Rgds Colin
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