AdC

Bit late to the party but I need to buy a harness too. Currently I have an impossible-to-adjust 4 point harness (the lap adjustment's behind the seat, down by the rear mounting points) with a car buckle style connector which makes it very fiddly to extricate myself from the shoulder straps even with the buckle undone, and I feel I'd submarine in a collision Just reading the thread, can someone explain "pulling up" versus "pulling down"? My idea of what I should look for was... 1. 6 point for the submarining protection 2. QR buckle on the lapstrap nearest the tunnel (so 'handed'), to stop damage to car outer skin 3. Lapstrap tightens by pulling towards and across the buckle (as there's not enough space to pull away from the buckle). 4. Shoulder straps pull down to tighten. Maybe this is the "Up" or "Down" referered to? I know many will have gone through the process - I'd be keen to know what's consided 'best practice' and what I should look for? Thanks. Edited by - AdC on 16 Apr 2012 11:33:16

Thanks for the detailed reply Blade_Runner. I'll do that this weekend. I suspect you're right - I spoke with JW today who, like you, indicated there are actually a lot of areas for tolerance stack up / backlash - gearbox, props, reverser and the CWP. He suggested it might well be a case of TADT, but will look at it next month when it's in for an MOT. Thanks again

Thanks for your views Blue-lines. I can't see myself going down the sound deadening route - good or bad I'd rather hear it, and, as you say, the induction and exhaust noise soon take my mind off it. It really is addictive, this car - "Just one more trip past 10,000 rpm, just one more bootful on the next roundabout...". I'll discuss tightening up the backlash in the CWP / installing an LSD when I get it serviced / MOT'd next month. I like the idea of donuts! Thanks again, all. Edited by - AdC on 19 Mar 2012 21:08:37

Quoting spiderlane: I'm intrigued by this notion that opening links in new tabs is the norm. I don't think I've ever seen this on a site. ... Should have said "Forums"... seems pretty much standard practice on the ones I look at.

Ahhh, now I see the method in his... Thanks Neil66. I misread your post, Admin - sorry. < gets back in box >

It does feel like backlash in the CWP, Blade-runner. Do you know if this is something that's easily fixed? If you read this, Blue-lines would you comment on how ftting your LSD helped? Was it the LSD per se or would a simple swap to a new / fixed non LSD diff help (assuming the problem is a worn CWP). Any other comment on how LSD changed your driving experience also appreciated. Ta'. Edited by - AdC on 19 Mar 2012 07:57:49

It goes against the logic and practice of just about every other website I've used. If it's a performance issue then I could understand it, but if it's just "because I want to" then you've got me scratching my head. - other posters - it's either Chrome on the laptop or Safari / Atomic on the iPad, but I think the Admin has confirmed it's just something he wanted to do differently / better than other sites.

Just curious, but all links posted in threads open in the current tab, unlike any other site I visit, where a new Tab is opened and the original site is preserved in the first. Is it me? Is there a way to get links to open in new tabs without the 'right click>open in new tab routine? Ta'.

Well, it's not the 'A' Frame bushes - shame. The removed ones appeared in decent condition but I changed them anyway. A trip out to Loomies today and the clunk's still there. Luckily, I managed to leave my Mechanical Sympathy Hat at home, so it was still a good laugh. It's due an MOT and a service next month so I'll ask James Whiting what he thinks. Oh, and in going to Halfords for a second 19mm spanner I now find myself with 149 other new tools as well. Every cloud and all that... :-) Edited by - AdC on 18 Mar 2012 15:33:34

Thanks again all. I'll change the A frame bushes but I've a feeling the clunk may well be 'shaft-y'. Shame if it is 'TADT' Blade Runner, as it does feel 'wrong'...

Thanks James. I looked on the Caterham website and came up with these. Can anyone confirm these are the rear ''A frame bushes I need? If there is an alternative, longer lasting varient I'd appreciate a nudge in the right direction. Thanks again.

Hi Andy - thanks - my confusion! Okay, 'A' frame bushes to start, then. What happened to your car? You kindly spent a lot of time furnishing me with details of it when selling - sadly I moved, ended up with no garage and so the idea was put on the backburner. Still look back and think I should have found a way... Adam

Thank you for all the replies - I'm not an engineer so all the pointers are really appreciated... Picon Bierre - if I had to guess, the Crown Gear & Pinion is exactly where it feels like it's coming from. If I was to convert the Ital axle to LSD, I'm assuming they'd be replaced in the conversion? I didn't get a chance to look between the reverser box to the diff, but the Bailey Morris propshaft between gearbox and reverser box does have a few degrees of play in it (i.e. you can turn it a few degrees before it makes mechanical contact). Btw - the rubber donuts on the shaft seem in good order Blue-lines) Everyone who said 'A' Frame bushes - fingers crossed this is the problem - a cheap easy fix! When you say "'A' Frame bushes" are all three to be replaced or is it just the one under the differential? And if so, where's the best place to source them? Thanks. However, I believe JW Fireblades have 'rose jointed suspension', so maybe it's not the answer (sorry if it sounds dumb - I'm up country for the weekend so can't look at it until Monday to confirm). Nick Chan - it's the mechanical reverser as described here. I'm wondering if I could get by without reverse altogether? Thanks again everyone - any more suggestions gratefully received Edited by - AdC on 10 Mar 2012 15:03:58

Morning all! Bit of a beginner to all this, but I noticed yesterday a pronounced 'Clunk' when 'taking up the slack' after every gearchange / rolling off, then back on the throttle when in gear. It's definitely different to the first gear engagement "KER-LUNK!!!!!" (I'm happy with that - reminds me of my biking days) but I'm just wondering what the former could be. If anyone's had it (particularly bec / JW owners) I'd be interested to hear more about the issue / a possible fix. Thanks in advance! oh, the clunk appears to be coming from towards the rear of the drivetrain - somewhere below my left elbow. Edited by - AdC on 9 Mar 2012 08:29:34

here Sorry, I don't know the cost as it was done by the previous owner. Probably doesn't stand up to the scrutiny of a detail fetishist, but looks good to me. The only 'pink' you see is with the bonnet off, and there are no rucks or wrinkles even around the curvy bits e.g the nosecone. Edited by - AdC on 26 Feb 2012 08:58:37

I've a quick question about my CTEK MXS-5.0 charger if anyone knows... Is it okay to start the engine with the charger still connected (indeed, is there any benefit)? I flattened the Fireblades battery the other day trying to start it after a few weeks on the charger. I was wondering if keeping it connected might give it a bit more starting juice? Thanks Edited by - AdC on 13 Feb 2012 09:58:14

Thanks for the replies, maybe put it on the list for some timein the future, then...

Just curious but is the difference appreciable from the drivers seat? Mine's the narrow track and I like it because it helps the 'smallness' of the car, but I'm wondering whether people consider the wide track a 'must-have' upgrade? sorry it's a bit off Topic OP! Edited by - AdC on 1 Feb 2012 11:01:17

Just curious - would a small indicator on the side of the headlamp shell be an acceptable replacement for the main under-the-headlamp one? I have both of them and as they're only 6 inches or so apart I was wondering if I could tidy up the front end.