Dave H

aja, I bought my Seven 11 years ago second hand. I am just finishing a major rebuild and upgrade, which was well worth the time and trouble. I wish I had built mine from new to start with. Before you start get hold of a copy of the Caterham Build manual and have a good look at it. Putting a Seven together is not difficult, just allow yourself plenty of time, and be prepared to have to wait for odd bits to be sourced. If you are in the West Sussex area get down to Dial Post - second wednesday of any month and make yourself known, you'll get plenty of advice and information. Dave H

bum.gif Edited by - Dave H on 22 Aug 2001 15:54:09

The Build manual can be purchased from Caterham for about £20, and it will have some info on the K. The Tony Wheale book doesn't include the K, but is worth having as is does include body, chassis, ancillary maintenance and loads of other useful stuff. I would also get hold of a copy of a Haynes manual which includes the K. Do they do one for just the engine yet? Haynes don't do a Caterham one. If you have questions, post them here, they usually get answered quite quickly. Dave H

Too right 99 - 105 is a big range. The Db scale is logarithmic - +4Db is a doubling of volume, so someone doing your measuring must have had a seriously iffy meter, or not much of a clue what they were up to. Dave H

If you are seriously interested in the fireblade then get in touch with James Whiting, as he will be producing the kits for Caterham, and has just finished putting the demonstrator together (along with Paul Harvey, who designed and built the first one). Dave H

That was how I had mine done at Goodwood last time I was there - before the latest noise restrictions (Xflow - 106db @ 3500). I don't think it makes a huge amount of difference withthe side exit, its more to stop the overhanging body work getting between the meter and the exhaust, on those cars with overhanging body work. Dave H

Rob, Tape/tie/strap the meter .5m along a piece of wood/ruler and line it up in the direction of the exhaust outlet. Now raise the wood/ruler until it forms an angle of 45 degrees to the ground (but with the end in the exhaust). Now take your readings. I think Tony Isherwood will have the noise meters at Brooklands again on 15th September, for a small donation to LRF you can get it checked again. Dave H

Jonny, Castle Coombe was the first trackday I did - great fun, VERY fast. Don't strain the engine. It's very tempting to keep your foot hard down on the straights, and you can hit the rev limit rather too often. I doubt there is any need to take new pads, a Seven is not a car to wear them out very quickly, and Castle Coombe is not a track that requires extensive use of breaks. Start gently, work up the pace. Don't worry if the world seems to be going past, just have fun. Try and get a ride with someone who knows how its done, it can be a real eye opener. I was taken round by Barry Williams (long time racing driver including Le Mans) and while it didn't feel fast, it was, but it was very very smooth - something I spent the rest of the day trying to achieve. Above all, enjoy it. Its a great buzz to get a corner right, and the grin just gets bigger. Dave H

For most of us (myself included) the heaviest item, and one component that can afford to loose most weight is the driver...cool.gif Dave H Edited by - Dave H on 19 Jul 2001 14:53:06

Buy the Haynes Manual forthe Ford Kent engine and do the job yourself - the Xflow is a lovely simple engine to work on, and the book makes it very clear what to do, with loads of excellent advice, plus even more advice available on this website. Dave H

I'd go and talk to the people who will be MoTing the car. They should tell you at what point they will decide wipers etc are needed. cool.gifsmile.gifcool.gif Dave H

I've not heard of a Seven being stolen, but I've heard of bits being stolen from a Seven. Make sure the car is physically secure - a padlock and chain through the wheels to something solid in the garage - or the garage itself. A removable steering wheel also helps - how many thieves carry a spare? Welcome to the wonderful world of Seven Ownership, Dave H

Nick, I'll be over at Dial Post on Wednesday, why not join us and we can discuss it over a pint. Dave H

I am in the process of rebuilding mine, and as my other half doesn't like the aeros I have decided to have 2 scuttles, one with the aeros, the other with the full screen, wipers, wipermotor etc. Should take 5 to 10 minutes to swap between them. Dave H

Steve, I have been using aeros exclusively for the last 4 years, and have no wish to going back to the full screen. The air flow is smoother than with the big screen and no doors, and you don't get the same level of back draft you get with the doors on. As for stones etc. You need to wear glasses/goggles or a helmet. treat the car as a foour wheeled bike and dress accordingly - especially in rain, snow and cold temperatures. You do get a lot more exposure to the weather. cool.gifteeth.gifcool.gif Dave H

Only those with windscreens...even more weight to be saved...and more aerodynamiccool.gif Dave H cool.gifteeth.gif

Andy, It would be easier to put a tap in the line, just turn it off for track days. In fact if you reroute the pipework slightly you could turn it on and off from inside the car while on the move...smile.gif Dave H cool.gifteeth.gif

James Whiting supplied me with a unit from Webcon to go with the 45's for the Zetec I am fitting. Worth giving the man a ring to discuss it with him. Dave H

You could get in touch with Quaiffe and see what they can do for you, and what the price would be. They have rebuilt a number of Ford boxes for Sevens, with more suitable gear ratios. Dave H

About 2 inches extra legroom - before Caterhams started playing around with the chassis - the post '92(?) chassis has even more room lengthwise, but is narrower at the end of the footwell. I think there was another change in '95 or '96 when they produced a "common engine" chassis, and footwell lengths changed again. Dave H

I had this problem on the first track day I ever did - the reason is the water is forced through the pump and up the pipe by the cornering forces, and the only solution is to empty the washer bottle before you go out on the track. The permanent solution is to get rid of the windscreen cool.gifteeth.gif Dave H

Peter, I only noticed the leak when the car was left - a small pool of water under the front. Once the radiator was filled there was no overheating problem until the engine had been run for a while and then left - when it would leave its pool of water. Dave

I had a water leak problem on the Rover (1.4 K series) a couple of years ago. The water pump was leaking. If the water is getting anywhere near the cambelt get it changed as it serious weakens it and it is expensive to sort out the mess afterwards. Dave H

Richard, I have run with various 60 & 70 profile tyres at various times. When I have mixed them I have always put the 70's on the rears. The big difference between A21 60's and 70's is the price - 70's are UKP40 from George Pooly - whereas the 60's are UPK60+. If you require more clearance then the biggest difference will be when you put 70' son the front, as it is the sump which is the lowest point and that is at the front... cool.gifcool.gifcool.gif Dave H

Most of us who use aeroscreens wear crash helmets, especially on long journeys or when the weather is bad (or cold). Dave H