BigCol

11 hours ago, Ainsley said:

Just measured it, the cable coming out of the back of the rear light is 31cm to the end of the plug, or 28 to the end of the wires that go into the plug.

excellent, many thanks… the third-party lights I am going to fit come with a slightly longer lead (assuming they meant mm rather than the m listed in the spec; either way, will have enough!) 

3 minutes ago, graearea said:

I've done some odd things for people recently…

Excellent… I have a couple of things in mind for you too…!  🤔

12 minutes ago, Ainsley said:

I will get my tape measure out tonight 🙂

👍🏻 (hope that new LED units are the same as the old caravan style ones given, I assume, the main loom is unchanged)

On 04/03/2024 at 04:17, graearea said:

Haven’t offered it for sale as it’s a bit niche… 

a bit… but not uber niche…?  🤔🤣🤣🤣

On 04/03/2024 at 03:16, Doc007 said:

Yes. So I replaced the boot cover. I hear that some use pipe lagging to take up the space.

That’ll be me!  

The lagging takes up the space that the hood sticks previously occupied and with them gone, you’re adding lightness!

Anyone know (perhaps someone mid-build could measure? @Ainsley?) how long the fly-lead of the standard rear lights is?

As above, cables… prop shaft… diff.

If you haven’t got one, it’s worth getting/fitting an isolator switch of some sort so you can stop the parasitic drain of the immobiliser that potentially can drain the battery.  Banners once drained are tricky to resuscitate.

Pretty sure they’re made by Reverie, so they might offer a route if no one has a surplus one…

3 hours ago, ScottR400D said:

Did you make a fixture to support the diff in the Jack?

I did (as you kindly sent me your notes!) it made it much easier than the initial build but still, positioning the jack, lifting into place, aligning before putting the first fastenings in etc was still far from simple!

Oxted Trimming?

They amended a tonneau for me.  Not cheap but did exactly what I wanted.

30 minutes ago, aerobod - near CYYC said:

Once the diff has been centralized the first time, the packing washers each side should be the same for refitting. To make it easier to refit, I machined a couple of bushes to the thickness of the packing washers for mine.

I replaced my diff, so had to re-centre as was using a different carrier...  like your idea of machined spacers but I lack a lathe etc!

Lifting the diff into place on my own with just a trolley jack was far from easy.

Removing the diff isn’t too bad… refitting and centralising it, is!

On 29/02/2024 at 18:59, Ainsley said:

*Orders Throttle Body conversion kit and starts cutting a hole in the bonnet*

Impressed that having just started your kit, you have contracted upgraditus already! 

Can any of the ReHaB boys help?

There is never any need to justify being tarty!

Tony the Brush at TSK might be able to help.  

Though wasn’t a similar question asked, and answered, about Firecracker Yellow recently? (have had some Forgetful Juice since then so I might be wrong 🤔)

4 hours ago, PROBE2 said:

Sorry should have been clearer in add, just looking for a basic engine, maybe supersport level.

Fairy Nuff.

Though it would inoculate you from potential future upgraditus!  🤣

How about this?  It looks exceptional!

Nice car…

If you wanted to add lightness to it by selling the long nose shower cap separately, can I have first dibs please? 🤷🏻‍♂️

Seems the conclusion is
LSD: Drexler > TracSport > Sintered Titan > Carbon Titan
>
ATB: Wavetrac > Quaiffe

in terms of both performance and price!

Sorry… re costs…

If the crown wheel/pinion are not badly worn then you’ll be looking at a pub lunch over £2k to get Steve to overhaul your diff, replace the bearings and seals before fitting a TracSport and shipping it back to you.

Ask me how I know… 🤔😳

If the diff is trashed (or you want to start from scratch to give peace of mind), add circa £1500 to that for a new open diff from Caterham.

Getting the diff out is comparatively straight forward (assuming you don’t smash your finger trying to undo a bolt, otherwise it’ll be an elapsed time of over a week; again, ask me how I know).  Getting it back in and centred is much more of a ‘mare however.

As per the very l..o..n..g thread, a Titan-based solution is far from fit and forget and will need regular maintenance.  The sintered plates are more robust than the carbon ones but nevertheless have a limited lifespan.

The consensus is to patronise Steve Perks and go for a TracSport unit.  There have been a few positive comments recently about Drexler LSDs too.

If you really don’t want/need an LSD, then the Quaiffe ATB is meant to be very good.

@revilla has developed a “Gauge Magic“ circuit (see this thread) that enables the necessary correction.

Unfortunately he’s currently reclusive and I don’t think producing any (I’d like one for my fuel gauge!).  I hope his circumstances will improve and he’ll be back soon.

2 hours ago, jody391 said:

Check the T's and C's for what???

Those above which are from the supplier of the product suggested by @LouisFeakes.

including:
Seller makes no warranties, express or implied, of merchantability or of fitness for a particular purpose or otherwise,
and
Seller makes no representation or warranty that this equipment can be safely installed on any specific vehicle or is suitable for use under any specific road or racing conditions.

I have found both Minty and Darren at Caterham consistently helpful.

The former hand-delivered some bits for me when my car was at the 7 Workshop.  This was before we realised we’d need the parts! 😳

Darren has responded to emails from me on a Sunday evening.