BigCol

Quoting RedCat7: Newer cars don't even need a sub-loom. Spade connectors can be found at the back right bottom corner if the chassis. At least that was the case on my 2011 SV.If that's the case, stand-by for a sub-loom-based For Sale posting from me after an hour in the garage...!

There was this thread in 2005... I contacted Chris Wyles late last month asking for the circuit diagram and he responded: I have no idea of your electronics knowledge or background, but there are two basic ways to achieve a low fuel warning light. The first is simply to use an op-amp comparator. If this means nothing to you, I fear that sending you the circuit won’t help. If it does, then you shouldn’t need a drawing as all one needs to do is to input the fuel sender voltage to one side of the comparator and set the voltage on the comparator’s other input (with an amplified diode arrangement) to that voltage (which you can measure at the sender) when the tank is low enough to be at what you would call “low fuel”. The only disadvantage of this circuit is that the low fuel light will flash around a bit (as the fuel sloshes around) when the tank is getting low. One could add a monostable to stop most of this and reduce the flashing on the boundary of the low fuel point. The better way, IMHO, using far fewer components but requiring programming knowledge, is to program a microcontroller with your own software which can sample the sender voltage, wait for say 2 or 3 minutes, and then sample the sender voltage again. If both readings are low, the low fuel warning illuminates. If not, it was just sloshing around and getting low but not actually low enough yet. I have appended a diagram below showing the basic circuit for the first method. I have no idea what the actual sender voltage will be at low fuel, however the sender voltage increases as the fuel decreases (at least it did on my Caterham) I didn’t put them on the drawing, but add a 100nF and a 470uF (25v) capacitor in parallel at the battery input to the circuit and put a 100nF across the op amp’s supply terminals close to the op amp. That should kill any ignition interference. As this is a fairly basic circuit, the battery voltage will affect it so there will be a different result for when the engine’s on or off, owing to the alternator’s having a higher voltage than the battery itself. However…… so long as you tweak the “low fuel” lamp level when the engine’s running, that will be accurate. When the engine’s OFF, but the ignition ON, the sender input will be lower (owing to lower battery voltage), which the circuit will interpret as a higher fuel level. The reference voltage will be unaffected by battery voltage. It wouldn’t be difficult to make it all independent of battery voltage, but frankly, I’m not sure it’s worth the extra complexity on the Caterham. circuit diagram I've bought the bits (Maplin stock the necessary) but have yet to make up the circuit.

guess around 4:30 today... queuing southbound on Sutton Court Road, about to turn right onto the A4...

TADTS... well, mine do too! 😬

Quoting Gregs79: How long do people leave it for the oil to get warm with no gauge?My next project will be as here, so I'll know... others have a two way switch to vary the feed to the water temp gauge between a water temp sensor and one for oil temp.

Quoting evotell: Job done 😬Glad to hear it; what was the solution to Terry?

I know it's contrary to what you're likely to do but Derek told me: We use Terostat to bond the wings, when using it make sure you take the powder coating off the wing stays and rough up under the wing. Don't use too much to initially bond the wing. When it has stuck put some more on in the infill's using a wet gloved finger to smooth it down. I used a piece of wood whose thickness was fortunately exactly half the difference between the tyres' and wings' widths. By laying it on the front face of the wheel/tyre, I lined the wings edge withe the wood's edge. Repeating on the rear face meant I was happy the wing was straight and central. For fore/aft, a length of 2x1 vertically against the front of the tyre, a spirt level to make sure it was plumb and another chunk of wood between the front wing edge on the 2x1 made sure of clearance and consistency! For me it was very much a variation in the "measure twice, cut once" theme... I treble-checked twice!

I fitted a Caterham cigar lighter thingy between the seats and when on the road have one of these plugged in... and when in the garage, my Ctek unit goes there instead.

can't see fitting that kit making it non-IVA-compliant... that said, one of the rear wing bolts is used to earth the fuel tank (or sender or... anyway something fuel tank-related) so that'll need to be a standard metal bolt (or attach the cable elsewhere)

bugger... was about to nab that!

Sorry if it's an obvious/patronising (you do know what patronising means, don't you? ) question... are you sure the bleed valve is *fully* open? That would explain the lack of fluid coming through. It's a bugger to get at and awkward to turn - bleeding difficult! (I too used an EeziBleed)

Quoting classic1952: Start it with jump leads... put it on trickle charge....Worked for me earlier this year... battery dead, plugged in Optimate and nothing... but post jump-start and a bit of a run, it was fine (and has been plugged since!)

Dark-coloured 7 with full weather gear going towards Chiswick Park tube, I was in an aero'ed orange SV turning onto CHR and waved, albeit late!

14mm hex Allen key

as with many aspects of my build, I did what Derek told me... We use Terostat to bond the wings, when using it make sure you take the powder coating off the wing stays and rough up under the wing. Don't use too much to initially bond the wing. When it has stuck put some more on in the infill's using a wet gloved finger to smooth it down. but the flexibility that the big heads give would probably cause me to do it differently next time.

Quoting richy: The most difficult job for me was putting the gearbox oil filler plug back in! me too... well over an hour of my life I'll never get back... 😔

I didn't add any labels. The tester did query the dip and flash switches but his assessor who was overseeing the test (and made him very pedantic) took a pragmatic view and said the blue telltale for main beam was as much of a visual indicator as a label. Building a rapport with the tester, if you can, is well worthwhile. Whilst my chap failed my car, I had a very sensible conversation about why and, more to the point, what I needed to do to get a pass.

ah... that engine/gearbox combo that I had would definitely help...

with all bolts tightish... put the car in gear... torque available bolt... take car out of gear... rotate prop shaft... and repeat!

I only have metric drills, so just used the nearest equivalent... eg 5/32" = 3.97mm, so used 4mm... as you say, it was for a rivet, so not critical That said, there was one size that I ended up buying a 2.3mm drill or something (for 3/32"?) to get closer (my local hardware store lacked imperial drills)

I took the path of least resistance and bought the Caterham First Fill pack - here I filled everything post-build. Found afterwards (in a conversation with Derek - as you do...) that received wisdom is to fill the gearbox pre-installation (and block the tail where the prop shaft goes appropriately.

Quoting Roadracer1977: Derek at CC suggested it stopped the rubbing of the cables on the tunnel.and the twisting isn't necessary in an SV (which I thought I'd have to do having read various build blogs!)

I looked it up in an email from Derek replying to the same query from me last year!

watching eBay per chance...? (don't worry, am not a rival for it...!)

top terminal for "handbrake on" switch