Ivaan

Ian, I probably won't get round to the tip trip for a while....too lazy. Just let me know if they're any use to you in the next couple of weeks.

Clive

5 No Avon ZV1's 185/60 R14

Tyres are 7 year old.

1 never used.

2 with 4-5mm approx

2 with 2mm approx

FREE

Shrewsbury.

Robin YHM.

Thomas, I'll keep you informed of any developments.

Cheers.....Clive

😬

John - thanks for the heads-up. I'd really appreciate you passing the message on.

Tiddly - already spent too much money on the car this Christmas. ☹️Looking for a cheaper option for this year.

Aghhhh!!

Just been told by Caterham that they can't upgrade EU2's, just EU3's. So now I need to purchase a Supersport ECU EU2 ( coil pack mounted on inlet side of engine, with IACV ), with imobiliser and plipper.

Anyone upgraded to an Emerald recently?

Clive

Richard,

I've retimed the cams to 1.5 inlet, 1.0 exhaust. She's running better, less lumpy, but definitely lost power above 4000 rpm. There was plenty of room on the verniers, although, the newly fitted Apollo was a PIT 🙆🏻 to get round

I'll leave things like this until I get the ECU upgraded.

I've measured the camber 1.5 deg approx. But hope to see you sat to sort out.

Happy New Year everyone

Richard,

It does tick over, albeit very lumpy and does occasionally stall when hot. I'll try your valve timing to see the difference. Hopefully enough travel in the verniers!

Clive

Ian,

Just checked and it looks fine ( sensor on the exhaust manifold? ) with all wires firmly connected.

Clive

John,

I'd be interested in these, but have just spent £££ on the car, so need a little time to get brownie points from SWMBO. If you still have them in a couple of months....

Errr that is, if they fit a standard roadsport de-dion car?

Clive

I've fitted new cams (633's + verniers) to my 1.6K Roadsport over Christmas. They're timed at 2mm inlet, 1.5mm oulet at TDC and engine pulls well above 4000 rpm.

The problem is black very sooty plugs indicating a rich air/fuel mixture. The CAT also seems to be getting hotter than before.

The plugs were running perfectly normal colour prior to the cam change.

I've still got the same std Rover ECU ( EU2 ) and in the next month or so want to upgrade this.

I can send the ECU to Caterham, who will upgrade it to a SS profile map. Will this resolve the air/fuel mixture or is there anything I can do to now to alievate the problem.

Also...will the new ECU profile improve performance at low end revs?

And....Approx £100 to upgrade ECU...would I be better to find an alternative?

Greatly interested in your views..

Thanks, Clive

Griff,

Have you removed the cams from the head, or just taken off the cam belt?

Clive

I sort of got the answer I was fishing for... 😬

Hook, line and sinker... 😬 😬

Sorry Richard *redface*

Anyone recommend a good place to have my tracking/camber/castor sorted out.

My recent change from Avon ZV1's to Toyo R888's has lead to a lot of bump steer and tramlining. The camber on my car does look excessive, as the fronts lean inwards at the top by several degrees ( negative camber?? ).

Thanks, Clive

I second Niel's post.

I've just changed from Avon ZV1's to Toyo R888's, on standard caterham suspension setup. Huge difference...........LOADS more grip. 😬 😬 In dry and damp conditions.

Again, great service from Steve at Simply Tyres. *thumbup*

If you have a K series car without an Apollo or dry sump, I suggest you fit one to protect the engine against oil surge/starvation. Definitely a higher risk with better tyres.

Clive

Anyone want 185/R60 x 14 Avon ZV1's.

1 new - never used

2 - 4mm tread

2 - just legal ( I think )

Shrewsbury

Free or donation to ntl.

Thanks for all the offers. Just shows what a great club this is.

Malcolm, YHM

Stu, thanks for the photo's, sorry I didn't see them in your earlier post.

Out of interest, is this the first time you've removed the panels, and if so, what milage had you done. Was it all dry miles?

I imagine the quantity of crap in the trap will be related to milage rather than age.

I have used a pressure washer from the inside of the engine bay a couple of times in an attempt to keep the area clean, but it looks likely that it's only pushed any muck further into the void.

Thanks, Clive

Can you not get access to this area from the top by removing the small curved panel under the side of the scuttle. Would like to see some detailed photos of the construction. Anyone?

A fitter at work was using a spray can of "White grease with PTFE", to lube / protect some of our construction plant. Looked as if it could be a good product to protect against corrosion. Thinner than Waxoyl, so it flows into small gaps, but stiff enough to stay put and not be washed out/off by rain or spray. Wipes off easily with a rag though.

I don't think that the expanding foam is 100% waterproof and once water did get into it, or between the foam and the chassis/skin, it would sit there slowly corroding the frame. It would never dry out.

Is it possible to see into the traps?

I was wondering if an endoscope might do it. The type surveyors use to see into wall cavities ect...similar to one docs stick up your 🙆🏻

Would love to check the state of my car, but don't want to have to do any hard work.

On these late summer evenings with the sun low on the horizon, when driving towards the sun, my windscreen looks as if it's been shot blasted. I think it's the heating elements reflecting the sunlight, but it's difficult to tell in detail when concentrating on what little of the road ahead I can see. Are they all like that?

At times visibility is really carp.

Me again......

With my cam supplier away on a looooooooong holiday, and the 50th fast approaching, I decided to put the original cams back in. All went well, timing/verneirs sorted ect.

On engine start, there was a quiet tick for about 40 secs, which disappeared before I left the driveway. All was quiet for about 6 or 7 miles, when the loud ticking started again ( I was taking it very easy ).

With the followers apparently in good condition and the oilways open, why would this come back? Is it possible for a follower to be faulty? Should I replace them? Or is there anything else which could also be giving these symtoms? A broken piston ring wouldn't disappear, would it?

The engine's been well maintained and only done 15,0000 ml.

PS. After a dry fortnight, with no car, it started raining just as I left the garage.

Dooh!

Note to self :- read and digest all posts before sticking foot in mouth or fingers on keyboard.