Ivaan

Okay....newby numpty question...

Where are the results posted????

Probably right infont of me

Clive

Perhaps I'll keep quiet and my head down.......might get away with it.

😬

Anyone have a set of these stuffed in the back of the shed? Unused?

Want to raise a bit of cash?

I've been "lent" a set by a very kind gent, and now must, must have my own!!!

Blatmail or call me on 07855 837335.

Cheers, Clive.

Simon,

I'm interested in the 4-1.

Will the primaries fit a standard CC Roadsport silencer with integral cat? Or which silencer will they fit ???

Clive

You were in the layby on the dual c/way westbound towards Shrewsbury about 5.30 this p.m.

Clive

I drilled a small hole at the top of my thermostat, to prevent air locks when refilling the system ( this does slow down getting the engine up to temperature ).

Would this help to prevent any pressure surges, when the stat is closed, protecting the cap?

Clive

Today ( Tues ) at about 4 pm. I followed you through town and past the Mere, then you turnt off towards Whitchurch.

Finally, some great 7 weather 😬

Clive

I'm after a set of Brooklands for my Roadsport. Need complete kit with mirrors ect.

Shrewsbury.

Cheers,

Clive

Naddy, I've just done this on my Roadsport. It's a 2000 1.6K series car. The original rad was a traditional metal one. The new cc aluminium/plastic rad has the same mounting points, but with the extra small (5/16th) connection to the header tank. I needed about 18" of additional hose, a tee to join this onto the top return at the header tank, suitable jubilee clips. Depending on your existing cooling fan mounts, you may need the short arms.

It's straight forward enough, and I didn't have any problems bleeding the system. I drilled a small hole on the top of the new thermostat, before I fitted it a few months ago. This seems to solve the problem of air locks, though it does slow down the warming up of the engine a bit. I've also fitted a tee with a cap to the top hose near the heater, which allows easy filling of the heater side.

After all of this, the new rad leaked from the crimped seal between the ali and the plastic. CC supplied me with a replacement, and I had to do it all over again.

From the CC reaction, I'd say this was fairly common.

Good luck!

Clive

Having fitted 888's in the autumn, the curved section, at the bottom by the engine bay, is getting shot blasted by stones ect. I've fitted some homemade mud flaps, but am still loosing all the paint from where the side skins are rivited to the u/s of the chassis rail. I'm tempted to use some 3" wide PVC tape along the underside, but don't know if this would peel of the paint when removed. Also, what would happen if water ( and salt! ) got behind the tape.

If this area's not protected, there's a chance that the pwder coating on the inside edge of the chassis rail will get damaged.

Anyone protected this area, and with what success?

Clive

I've fitted a 56mm throttle body ( bought from E-bay ) to my 1.6K. It's a straight forward swap, apart from it missing the breather connection from the cam cover to the TB. This will need a seperate filter arrangement to breath to atmosphere. Don't blank it off, ( as I did at first ), as that will lead to negative pressure inside block.

( I heard air being sucked down the dip stick tube when checking the oil.)

Clive

*wavey*Saw you heading south. I flashed lights from red van going opp direction.

Clive

Just E-mailed Emily for 1 L ( male ) and 1 L ( female ). Hope I'm not too late.

Clive

I've just installed a new CC supplied rad. It leaks along the joint between the plastic and aluminium. CC Mids are replacing it, but the new one has no drain plug, ( why not ? ), so there'll be a mess when I have to disconnect the bottom hose to drain the system

Also, no guarentee that the replacement won't leak

Clive

Mark,

Have the entry form, but need the L7C Championship Number to complete. Have these been given out yet....or just leave blank?

Cheers Clive

This wasn't a dig at CC. I just didn't realise I'd need the shorter mountings.

Brett at CC Mids was very quick to respond to my request when I rang after the weekend. Hopefully, the arms will arrive tomorrow

This might be useful for others to know:-

I'm replacing the rad in my 1.6K Roadsport ( 2000 ), ( the original metal one), for the new Ali/plastic Caterham one. What I didn't realise was that I'd need the shorter plastic fixing arms for the cooling fan mountings.

Car's been off the road for 2 weeks, just cause I can't get 4 small pieces of plastic. 🙆🏻 🙆🏻

7heaven,

I was out for a brief, well earned, blat around the A5 roundabouts on the dual carriageway.....a favourite of mine....great for showing what a 7 does best!!! 😬 😬 😬

Clive.

Hi Alan, Hope you had as good a day as me.

I drove the Evo Triangle ( no traffic ) then down to Bala, across to Vernwy then Welshpool and home to Shrewsbury. 😬 😬

Clive

Saw you heading east on the A5 this ( Sat ) a.m. I was on my way to the Evo triangle. Fantastic day in North Wales 😬 😬

Clive

Oily,

Ahhhhhh! < Penny drops! >

The SS ECU came from a 1.8K, circa 1998. Do I need to increase the fuel pressure or is the ECU not suitable for a 1.6? If necessary, can the fuel pressure be raised?

Clive

Oily, I first set the cams to 1.95mm inlet, 1.48mm Exhaust as per the Piper instructions. I've then backed off to 1.5mm inlet, 1.0mm exhaust. I've backed these off a little just on the verneirs, but on your advice will retime them from scratch. What are the ideal settings?

How is the IACV reset? I'd assumed it reset as part of the ECU reset?

Cheers, Clive

I've recently upgraded my Roadsport with Piper 633 cams and a Supersport ECU. It's a EU2 2000 car.

On changing the cams, still with the standard ECU, at first the tickover was very lumpy, with all the power coming on at above 4000 rpm. I backed off the cam timings and the tickover became smoooooth, with a good response throughout the rev range.

Now I've changed the ECU, and the tickover is again very lumpy ( I've backed off the cams a bit more to stop it from stalling ), but now the car is misfiring. Especially after any time spent at idle ( say waiting at lights ), then runs rough until 4000rpm, when it seems to clear itself until after next at tickover.

So two questions:

1) Why does the SS ecu change the tickover charateristics. Would it be spark timing or fuel control?

2) Any ideas about the misfire cause? Is it likely that the lambda sensor would have failed? Seems too much of a coincedence to me. I could refit the standard ECU, if I matched it to the imobiliser.

Any pointers appreciated.

I need a trackday helmet. I'd feel fine buying a good one from another club member.

Any unwanted one's out there?

Clive