skydragon

Standard front discs and calipers with Mintex 1144 pads.

taking the advice given I've; 1. Fitted a Titan LSD 2. Upgraded the front brake pads to Mintex 1144 and fitted new disks, as well as fitting new 'CC 'blue' pads on the rear. 3. Booked myself on the Harewood Hillclimb school I'll report back on progress in due course.... *thumbup* (as an aside, the 'Green stuff' brake pads I removed were badly cracked and breaking apart )

Thanks for the link, I may well get one of those for future use. Well, I gave the hub/disk to my mate and in the words of Little Britain 'The computer says No...' 😬 He tried several tried and trusted methods and just couldn't get the bolt to shift. He's a full time mechanical engineer so I'm fairly confident it was a lost cause. Fortunately I was 'down saff' yesterday getting a new Titan LSD 🥰 🥰 fitted into my diff casing by road and race transmissions, so I manged to pop into CC and get a hub replacement and some new bolts.

Thanks for the feedback, I don't have access to welding gear on hand, although I do know someone who has. I'll try to get them to try the heating methods you suggest (I'd presumed heating the hub was a no-no and might crack/weaken it). Thanks.

I've been replacing the front brake discs on my seven today. Did the first one ok, albiet the hub to disk bolts were VERY stiff and I could only just undo them. Disaster struck on the second wheel when I just couldn't undo one of the bolts. I got 'big Jez' round from next door and we both tried hauling on the bar... then the bolt rounded off *mad* There is no way it's coming out now. My car is a 2003 and has 4 1/4" between studs. I guess I need to buy one of these hubs ? The old disks were held on by allen (cap) head bolts and if they hadn't been I reckon I wouldn't have been able to get the first wheel sorted either (normal bolt heads would have rounded off earlier). I ordered some new bolts recently (these ones here) but they are a normal bolt head and I'd prefer to use cap head bolts. The old hub-disc bolts I removed look like this bolt here so I'm planning to use these, unless anyone can advise otherwise. 1.6 K Series EU3, 2003, ex-SuperGrad car. now Orange/Black. My website here Edited by - skydragon on 15 Feb 2009 15:39:56 Edited by - skydragon on 15 Feb 2009 15:43:30

Thanks for the feedback guys, I'll perservere with the socket based approach.

some of the dedion ear bolts, holding the brake caliper on etc, but I may be wrong.

Thanks Jason

I'm about to fit a new 1/8" NPT Stack temperature sensor to the water rail on my K-series to replace the existing (standrard) one. I've heard people recommending use of PTFE tape to seal the sensor. I haven't got any to hand and wondered if it is OK to use blue Hylomar sealant instead? On a related question - how tightly should the new sensor be tightened when fitting? 1.6 K Series EU3, 2003, ex-SuperGrad car. now Orange/Black. My website here

Having just dropped the diff out of my seven today in preperation for an updrade to a Titan LSD, I'm now thinking about re-assembly and all that entails.... I already have a couple of 1/2" drive torque wrenches, for use with a socket set, but ideally also need a 'open spanner' type torque wrench to get at some hard to access nut/bolts (ie. the type that has open spanner type end adaptors, rather than closed socket type ones. Is it possible to get sets of spanner type adaptors that will fit a 1/2" drive torque wrench, or failing that, where can I get hold of a (cheap) spanner type torque wrench?? 1.6 K Series EU3, 2003, ex-SuperGrad car. now Orange/Black. My website here

Thanks for this info, much appreciated.

Thanks, does that mean it's ok for me to re-use and threadlock the original bolts ? If not, which ones are they on CC's website? Cheers

I may be dropping my diff out over the next few weeks and note that the propshaft to diff flange bolts are 'four special blue bolts' which are supposed to be single use only, so ideally I need to get a new set for re-fitting. Looking on CC website I can't find any mention of them Anybody know where they are on CC web, or the best place to buy them from? 1.6 K Series EU3, 2003, ex-SuperGrad car. now Orange/Black. My website here

Does anyone know if the submarine highlighted at the start of this thread is for a 5/8" (16mm) coolant pipe and has a 1/8" NPT hole?

have a look here I think I'm right in that a 4-2-1 system (manifiolds, collectors, cat and silencer) can be had for around £1000. Caterhams' 4-1 system is priced at a similar level. Can anyone add to this?

I thought about £850 - £1000 for a full system was correct ??

A little bit, via radio controlled model building, but Ive never done any spraying of a large surface area before. A full day. I didn't disassemble anything on the car apart from taking the windscreen, front and rear wings and wheels off. This meant I had a lot of masking to do, especially around the front suspension. 1.6 K Series EU3, 2003, ex-SuperGrad car. now Orange/Black. My website here Edited by - skydragon on 4 Feb 2009 16:51:03

Is this one with a single threaded sensor mount holes, or with two threaded sensor mount holes? Thanks

I'm looking to add an in-line submarine into my K-series 5/8" (16mm) heater bypass hose, with a threaded adaptor to take a single sensor with a 1/8" NPT thread (a stack temp gauge sensor). Will this unit here do? Caterham list a K-series specific submarine on their website, but it has two adaptors (one for ECU temp sensor and another for the temp gauge sensor) and I only need one. 1.6 K Series EU3, 2003, ex-SuperGrad car. now Orange/Black. My website here

test 1.6 K Series EU3, 2003, ex-SuperGrad car. now Orange/Black. My website here

I've just ordered a set of 4 x Yoko' A539 185/60 r13 tyres ( it brought a tear to my eye to have to spend good money to downgrade a set of my 13" wheels from Yoko AO48's 185/60, just so I can compete in MSA Hillclimb Road going classes, but hey ho hum ) What is the best tyre pressure to run A539's at for Hillclimb/sprint? I'm guessing about 20psi, like AO48's ??

I found that using a plastic rubble bag from B and Q did the trick. Ideally you want a bag which is thin, but thick/strong enough that it doesn't split. I had to make a foam seat up, as I couldn't get the required 5cm MSA helmet clearance with a tillet seat (or at least not whilst still giving a sensible driving position, without my knees being forced up near the dashboard....). For the seat back I used two layers of blacks camping foam sleeping mat, glued with evostick to the rear bulkhead. This foam mat seat back combined with the foam seat is comfortable and gives a good driving position. 1.6 K Series EU3, 2003, ex-SuperGrad car. now Orange/Black. Picture here

Believe me, I'd be more than delighted Roger if I could spend the next few years doing the Supergrad series. But my job demands a lot of travel abroad and with 2 kids as well, sadly I just can't afford the free time to travel round to the various race venues. More importantly, I never can guarantee whether I am available to attend until fairly close to the date. Doing 4 - 5 events at Harewood which is only 30 miles away for me and the odd trackday will have to do for me for now. I've just booked myself into the Harewood Hillclimb school in April, so my education starts there. Mayby in a few years time, when I've won the lottery and can have a less demanding job, I'll be able to have a tuned Hillclimb car AND a Supergrad/Megagrad car for racing. 😬 😬 Edited by - skydragon on 31 Jan 2009 13:21:20

5w50 it is then. Thanks for the advice. Yes, I do and you are 100% right that they are now required for all MSA events including Hillclimbs. When I bought the car it came with both a non-cat MM exhaust and a std Caterham Roadsport type exhaust with cat. The MM exhaust is now sitting in the back of the garage... Hopefully, later in the year I can save up for a nice new 4-2-1 exhaust system with cat, along with a trip to DVA to fettle the engine

Oil... that confusing topic What is the best engine oil choice for a 1.6K series being used for Hillclimbs and fast road usage ? ('best' as in gives best protection, rather than power) 10w40 semi-synth (as used by many supergrad racers) 5w50 synth (as recommended by Caterham for track usage.