CB
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Everything posted by CB
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YHM
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I am looking for a black S3 windscreen assembly (to fit metric chassis - not sure if that is different) either with or without glass. Chris
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Doesn't the ECU record the initial throttle point though and use that as a baseline? i.e. if you use the throttle pedal then the ECU is effectively getting the wrong data about the throttle zero point?
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Have you set the idle screw so the throttle is actually open? That's what got me first time around...
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I don't know about the 1.4 K Series - but for the 1.6 Sigma I've just built the wiring instructions for the starter and alternator weren't exactly clear and it was very easy to attach things in the wrong place. Have you checked with Caterham that the right wires are going to the right place (a 3 minute phone call worked wonders for me)?
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Many thanks Chris
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Unfortunate I am not quite at the "wheels on and off the axel stands" stage. Almost - but not quite. What did you do to get the clutch un-stuck? thanks
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I am in the process of building a Sigma 125 car. I have just bled the clutch (no more air coming out, etc.) but the pedal is still very light with almost no resistance (well - more than before bleeding, but barely). Is that correct/normal? thanks, Chris
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Grubbster - YHBM. Many thanks. (it never fails to amaze me how willing people are to help here)
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Thanks all. Some choices to make - brute force or cable customisation (but I suspect I am limited there by lack of equipment to make a new ferule). It's a shame that CC can't provide parts that fit. Somehow fitting the diff seems easier. At least I knew that was going to involve the hammer....
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sadly the cable I've got only has about 2 cm of adjustment.... maybe I need to check I've been sent the right cable.
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I am in the process of building a Sigma engined car and the throttle cable is so long ths the pedal top (where the cable locates) looks like it needs bending a good 6cm or so just to take the slack up. It looks like an awful lot, but is it normal? Chris
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As per the title - I am after a good condition (not too noisy) 3.92 open diff and case for a 2004 de-dion...
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BTTT Anyone have any ideas? I have the same problem with a 1.6 K (though the IACV has not been changed)...
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A rationalisation following upgraditis attack: 300mm f/4 L IS (with box, manual and Canon case) - very good condition - £550 + P&P - sold EOS 33 Kit incl. EF28-90 f/4-5.6 II lens (with box and manual) - very good condition - £70 + P&P - sold EOS 5 body (with box and manual) and vertical grip - used but good condition - £60 + P&P Edited by - CB on 8 Mar 2008 17:52:54
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Having seen the effort the likes of exfordy have put into documenting their build (here) and noting the "oversights" in the official build guides, it occurred to me that an ongoing central Build Wiki might make a very useful resource. The intent would not be to supplant the CC build manual, but to provide a community maintained reference containing peoples experiences and observations on the build process. Sort of rather like a structured BlatChat really.... A Wiki has the obvious advantage of enabling members to update the guide to reflect current best practice.
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Apothecary - YHM
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Used but in good condition. £75 +postage or collect in central London or Letchworth
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sig test 2 www.blatter.co.uk
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sig test here
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The price list I downloaded 2 days ago shows the drysump as a £1000 option.
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thanks for the suggestions. Tasks for the weekend now include working out if I can manage to mod a throttle cable without making a complete horlicks of it and failing that bending a second pedal...
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Thanks - not ideal, but might be worth a go.
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Being of somewhat short leg, I am trying to move the throttle pedal to the near-most pivot point. The pedal moves fine, but the throttle cable (1.6 K series) is then too short to connect up as there doesn't seem to be enough adjustment in the mount block that slots into the throttle body. I have tried with my spare cable, which has a little more adjustment, but no joy there. Am I missing something?
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There is a lug projecting out of the top rear of a standard case that needs to be removed to fit a 7. The build manual indicates a cut 43mm from the machined surface of the backplate.