MTW

The next big thing on my list is individual throttle bodies, but I am keen to do as much work on the car myself. from looking into it the options seem to be take it to somewhere like team Leo's for jenvey's and a custom map, or buy the Caterham roller barrels at a slightly higher cost. am I right in thinking the Caterham kit comes with everything you need including a base map, so in theory would be better suited to fitting yourself? Or is it easy enough to figure out everything you need to fit the jenveys? Keen to hear from anyone who has fitted individual throttle bodies at home.

I would be up for this for sure!

I had the same issue with the original life line, I changed to the "go race" QR system, which comes with the full upper column for Caterham attached, so it's really simple to fit. It's a ball bearing type of engagement rather than the spline type that can wear out. https://www.go-race.co.uk/product-page/caterham-column-with-quick-release-boss im really happy with it!

I will take a set please, if you can send payment details that would be great.

I ran mint cable through the pedal box cover, I used some thin felt tape to create a sort of seal fit the lid to sit on, then left a small gap in the tape to run the cable through, then screwed the cover back on, and then ran the cable along the back of the dash and into the fuse box cover. ​​​​​​​

I have bought a 620r silicon radiator hose that I'm planning on using, I saw CtrMint has done this already so I'm going to give it a try too when I change to a new radiator. You have to cut the current rubber hose and add the silicone hose which runs front the end of the inlet manifold to the radiator.

I did see the FAQ the bit I was concerned about was this part

Ah good to hear, much appreciated! Didn't get any paperwork with mine!

On the subject of the banner battery vent, I recently replaced mine, the battery vent pipe is on the left side on my old battery and the tube has been zip tied to the chassis, the new battery came with the right side open as the vent and the left side plugged. The tube wouldn't reach, I removed the plug from the left side and the hole looked identical to the open "vent" hole so I put the tube in there and plugged the right hole. It's been that way for a few weeks, but I have since read that sometimes you can't switch the vent holes on the banner? Does anyone know for sure?

I'm on my 4th rad, latest one was fitted under warranty by Caterham and lasted 3 months. when spoke to Caterham about this, they stated the only way for me to get it replaced was for me to remove the faulty rad, BUY a new rad from them, send back the faulty rad for "testing" then after that they would refund me... I told them where to go on that one. I am buying a rad from McMillan motorsport, they have them made to their own spec, with a different fan set up that's bigger and is on the rear of the rad rather than front, I'm going to give that a try, I have heard the McMillan rad is the one to have from a couple of Caterham race teams. I also have a 620R silicone top coolant hose im going to join to the current rubber coolant hose to try and reduce the vibrations.

I have a similar unit on my car, the double usb is really handy, also fitted a ctek panel.

it actually makes sense that the shim probably only works at one pedal position, my pedal position is the furthest away from me, but if you used the position closest to the driver it would solve the issue I would imagine. When I can muster the strength to faf around with the pedals again I might try and fit both shims, use the closest pedal mount and adjust the pedals to sit roughly in the same area, although I am a bit wary as I'm 6'2 so I only just fit in my car with the pedals all the way forward and seat all the way back. It seems to me there is a lot of little things involved with getting this pedal right. All this could be avoided if Caterham provided some basic instructions wouldn't it! But I suppose that's too much to ask.

I'm pleased to report removing the shim and using washers seems to have done the trick! it'd night and day, lovely firm pedal now, much more feel than the stock one and slightly less travel, very happy! as you can see the angle is a lot less than with the shim

Thanks for the pics!

Ah that's good to hear! Yes I hope this sorts the issues. I don't suppose you have a picture of the washers do you? Or a pic of how the pedals are adjusted in the pedal box?

Just to update, I did order another shim to fit. but a few days ago I emailed DPR racing because I had seen one of their builds that had the high effort pedal but it looked like there was no shim fitted to the master cylinder, I asked them if this was the case and that I was having the opposite effects of what I thought the brake pedal should feel like. their response was bellow. maybe the shim is too much angle? It looks about half of the angle with washers instead of the shim, In any case if it's good for DPR it's good for me! I will give the washers a go and see how I get on.

Ok no worries, I will get another ordered and fitted, makes perfect sense, hopefully that will make the difference. I might look at trying to move the throttle pedal further back after that if it's still not 100% on the heel and toe front

Ah I see, yes that makes sense completely! I will get another ordered, yes if you are able to get a photo it would be great, also I would be interested to see where your pedal attaches to the pushrod, I had to adjust mine right to the end of the thread ti get the pedal back in line with the clutch pedal.

Another shim? This is the only one I have fitted.

No I didn't change any of the free play at all, the only adjustment I made was I had to extend the the pedal to piston rod mount to the maximum the the threads would allow to get the pedal position correctly

Thanks for the the pic edit Jonathan!

And no didn't disconnect any pipes, and the brakes were fine with the old pedal. It probably feels exactly the same brake power wise but the new pedal seems to require a lot less effort and seems to have slightly more travel, which is the opposite effect to what I thought it would have!

Yes for sure! In my limited mind I was just thinking, the pivot point to the piston connection is about 10mm longer on the high effort pedal, the shim pushes the master cylinder back about 10mm, then you have to adjust the pedal connection to the piston 10mm to get the pedal right, I'm just thinking maybe that all cancels out the extended pedal somehow. I have seen a DPR car posted on here with the pedal, but the master cylinder looks like it doesn't have the shim. But I have asked for clarification from them. maybe the Bigger AP master cylinder is a bit more sophisticated and can run fine with the piston at an angle? Compared to the standard cylinder, the shim looks like it's made to fit a master cylinder a lot smaller than the AP.

I have just fitted a high effort brake pedal to my 420r, I was hoping for a firmer pedal with less travel to make heel and toe a little easier. but I have just fitted the pedal and the shim for the master cylinder and if anything the pedal feels softer and longer than before? Just wondering if I have done something wrong? when I fitted the master cylinder shim it made the new pedal sit about an inch further forward than before (as you can see by how far away the brake light switch is in the picture) so to get the pedal back to the right position I had to set the master cylinder push rod to maximum where it attaches to the top of the pedal, so there is no more adjustment there. the pedal sits in the right place, but like I say it seems to be even softer than the standard pedal and even harder to heel and toe? the only thing I can think of is the shim is actually nullifying the extra pivot length of the high effort pedal? Making it the same or worse than the stock pedal? I'm thinking to maybe remove the shim re adjust and see how that feels? Even though the piston push rod would be at an angle? Any thoughts much appreciated!