Bob Simon

Peter, What if one simply set the throttle stop to some higher RPM, say 1300-1400 or so, then step through the Emerald TPS calibration procedure? After calibration, the LS0/LS1 horizon would be at a level that would allow twiddling tickover and progression without affecting the map. -Bob 94 HPC VX Evo III

Yes, the cover locates the interlock plate for the 1-2/3-4 selector operating block. You'll see a notched sheet metal appendage spot welded onto the inside of the cover when you remove it. (It's part of the casting if you have a Quaife alloy cover) When you reassemble, the notched appendage will prevent the cover from going back into place if it's not lined up. -Bob 94 HPC VX Evo III

Wiring for SDC module here -Bob 94 HPC VX Evo III

I wonder if all the noisy diffs are equipped with LSD carriers? Are the open diffs quiet? Could it be that CC's vendor is swapping out the open carriers and not reassembling the unit properly? Generally, you don't need to remove the pinion to do a carrier swap, so depth (tooth pattern) should not be an issue. Only if it was correct to begin with. Backlash and carrier bearing preload is a rather simple task to accomplish correctly.. I strongly suspect that this whole issue could be solved quite easily with a little QA review on the part of CC. On another note, for future reference; Do any of you have access to the Ford tools 15-075 and 15-019 to measure them for me? I need the diameter of the 15-019 gauge shaft and the upper step height of the 15-075 gauge block. -Bob 94 HPC VX Evo III

It really seems rather academic. Diff noise is due to either bad components or bad assembly. I really doubt that bad components are being used as modern manufacturing processes become much more accurate as time goes on. That leaves bad assembly processes. wrong pinion depth wrong backlash wrong bearing preloads. When CC was buying unopened Ford assemblies, everything was quiet and smooth. Occasionally a noisy diff was discovered, but usually it had had an aftermarket carrier(LSD) or a ratio change. Again, bad assembly techniques where probably the culprit. Are the new diffs being assembled with the proper tools? Ford provides no actual dimensional information for pinion depth in the Sierra diff rebuild manual. Special gauges are used to determine pinion depth. (Ford 15-019 and Ford 15-075) If the assembler does not have access to these tools(or their equivalent measurements), I can't see the diff ever being assembled correctly in a reasonable amount of time. You can go through a long process of patterning the tooth contact patches, but it becomes uneconomical and time consuming if you don't have the proper starting point of pinion depth. I've spent a good amount of time sorting problematic front loading 9" Ford diffs for mates changing ratios and/or carriers. Almost always the diff could be saved with proper assembly. BTW...Pinion depth was the most common error I discovered. Of course, you can always fill the diff housing with sawdust. It quiets them down real good! 😬 -Bob 94 HPC VX Evo III

On some chassis there's a bracket for a catch can on the offside under the intakes. You'll have to reach up from below to change the filter. Make sure to mount it low enough that the temp sender will clear the steering shaft if you use a Mocal remote filter bracket. -Bob 94 HPC VX Evo III

Yes, you'll need an properly wired cable between the USB/RS232 converter and the ECU Emerald normally provides a cable with each ECU. I'm sure they will sell you a replacement if you ring them up. -Bob 94 HPC VX Evo III

The Emerald cable is specific, like this: PC----ecu 2---8 3---7 5---5 8---9 The shielding is connected only at the ECU end. -Bob 94 HPC VX Evo III

Fan switch part numbers Here. -Bob 94 HPC VX Evo III

My belt produced at least that much gradoo after about 5000 miles. I think it's a case of TADTS. It looks as though you have a LN type belt path. If you change out the belt, be sure to examine the idler pulleys and replace them. Read up here about the breakage problem with LN idlers. -Bob 94 HPC VX Evo III

The fuel pump control lead on most ECUs can only switch small control currents. It only has enough balls to drive the coil of a relay, not a pump. As Kevin suggests, you'll need to use a relay to supply current to the pump. A standard 4 spade automotive relay and a 20 amp auto-resetting thermal circuit breaker supplied directly directly from your master buss (after any safety isolators, FIA switches, etc.) is a fairly common solution. -Bob 94 HPC VX Evo III

Hi Tim, It's not documented in any diagrams I've seen. Assuming the chassis is a pre-1996 HPC with Webers, The fuel pump is on the green wire that feeds the heater fan and the instrument illuminators. The feed is from the #2 fuse (10A) from the top left of the fuse box. I'm not sure where the loom connection is made under the dash, but a green pigtail emerges at the back of the prop shaft tunnel from the main loom to make the connection to the Facet pump. The wire is not real large so watch your currents on a big injection pump, especially if you have a heater installed. -Bob 94 HPC VX Evo III

Kevin, Here's another way of venting the cover. I didn't like the tube running round the back of the head so I plugged the front vents off and vented through the back connection. I left a small section of cam box cover baffle to keep oil from being discharged directly though the hose. Works a treat. -Bob 94 HPC VX Evo III

They did indeed. To identify, the old style is on the left in this photo. The centre threaded insert is molded in from the bottom so if the rubber were to disintegrate, the engine is still restrained. -Bob 94 HPC VX Evo III Edited by - Bob Simon on 1 Jan 2010 14:25:00

I'd forgot that the smaller diameter ARBs where constructed that way. I'd be a little leery of threading the acetal. You won't be able to put any thread-locking glorp on it before assembly since nothing sticks to it acetal. That goes for nylons (Ertalon) as well. You may be able to cross drill and install a tiny grub screw to keep the ball from unscrewing.

Martyn, There may be some powder coating in the cups making their ID a bit too small for your balls. 😳 That being said, the CC bits are carp. They are nothing more than industrial Bakelite (thermoset plastic) machinery knobs with a grease groove turned into the equator. Brittle as glass, in my experience. You can turn up acetal (Delrin or Celcon) replacements on a lathe. Drill and counter bore the ball for an allen head cap screw to pass through the ball and into the end of the ARB. I can't recall the screw size, but I think it's an M10 X 1.5. -Bob 94 HPC VX Evo III

I designed it from the remnants of the old extended footwell and had a sheet metal shop brake it up. -Bob 94 HPC VX Evo III

Here's a link to a drawing for the S3 foot well end cap. Of course you will have to modify the dimensions for an SV. You'll need a few of these, or something similar, to transfer the existing rivet holes into the end cap. edited to add: This end cap sticks out about 1/2 inch beyond the plane of the footwell tubes. You can lengthen or shorten as desired. Edited by - Bob Simon on 20 Dec 2009 13:55:05

Drilling the thermostat is an old trick to prevent a pocket of air from forming about the thermostat's wax motor and preventing it from opening. Most times this situation only occurs after exchanging fluids at service time. From my experience, the XE doesn't seem to need this modification, however if you ever service the fluids and have the car overheat just after, you might want to drill. -Bob 94 HPC VX Evo III

I've the one for the Caterham VX, if that's the what you need. Blatmail if this would help. -Bob 94 HPC VX Evo III

The parts for the Spiess/Swindon infill plate system are really hard to come by these days. Besides, you have to change belts and belt paths on an LN engine.. Here'swhat I ended up doing, leaving the LN belt path and components intact. I built a similar infill plate for the Pace oil pump as well. here -Bob 94 HPC VX Evo III

SBD can set you up with an uprated Helix stock style clutch cover that will fit the flat flywheel They can supply an appropriate clutch disk to fit the Ford input shaft as well. -Bob 94 HPC VX Evo III

1/4-28 -Bob 94 HPC VX Evo III

Methylated spirits? (denatured alcohol) -Bob 94 HPC VX Evo III

Meths will get Rain-X off glass. I tried Rain-X on a window adjacent to my garden to stop the mud droplets from fouling the view. Bad idea! The missus went berserk about the streaky glare. Regular glass cleaner proved useless. Meths worked a treat. (Single malt attenuated the din.) -Bob 94 HPC VX Evo III