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Brian Soper

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Everything posted by Brian Soper

  1. As a S2 owner of 30+ years I say just strip and rebuild it, if you have play in a ball joint then you will need to take shims out any how, you can buy sheet of shim from engineer suppliers and make new some if required, but you will probally find if you strip and rebuild both ends you can use your excisting shims Brian
  2. I have spare Fluke Fuses you can have, just send me an address an I will forward Brian Lotus 7 S2 ( no ignition light or rev counter and front drum brakes)
  3. My series 2 has never had an ignition light am I missing out on something!!! Brian
  4. It was me in the Lotus 7 my S2 great day out as usual , flying jacket weather though and had a lucky escape with the Camera van on the A272 going home , did not bother to overtake a line of cars approaching Winchester on the long straights at the top of the hill was the camera van Brian
  5. I use Castrol RS 10/60 in my S2 . I managed to find 10off 4.5L on ebay for £200 ( ex Palmer Motor Sport so came from a good source )last year should keep me going for a while Brian
  6. Part Number 88G274 from memory , must have change a few in 31 years of 7 ing.I made a nylon set once but was worried that they would transmit too much vibration into the braket and it would crack so I went back to the old bushes Brian
  7. If you drill a hole behind the rachet wheel you can move it round with a screw driver by poking it through the hole, its not so easy to back off the adjuster so do not lock up the brakes and try to back off Brian Soper L7 S2 and S4
  8. Get rid of the Spax , I had them for 25 + years on my S2 (3 sets actually) I replaced them with AVOs and the transformation was brilliant, keep the springs soft ie standard for road use < I have 175 front ( BMC A series engine) and 125 rear ( needed for fully loaded touring) tyre pressures 20 rear 18 front for normal driving increase by 2 psi if fully loaded or circuit laps on parade!!! I have fitted AVOs on our S4 as well great drive again just uprated the rear spring to 125 and 20/18 tyre pressures Brian
  9. My dip stick has never failed totaly acurate and I have only run out 3 times in 30 years !! once on Christmas day!!!! it ran ok on the 2 stroke mix a friendly gardener lent me!
  10. Mine is a Triumph one ( but there again mine is /are Lotus 7s) http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID005783 Try Red Line never failed me yet Brian
  11. You have just missed the Oxford area meeting ( Tues 5th May) but next meetng is June 7th if you still looking for advice Brian
  12. Under 500kgs ( 450kgs actually) with a live axle sounds like my 1961 S2, progess ?what progress :-) The axle is OK for the Hayabusa but you need a 3.2 diff and do not bother with reverse , more weight !! Brian L7S2
  13. I manage to 'break' mine on my S2 but its a welded chassis , so it was TIG welded back on just needed to clean the area aroung the old welds ,did not even need to remove the tank .If you want to go welding repair you would need to remove ALL the braze so would need to remove completely and start again,I do not think you could repair the braze as it would cause too much damage to paint/ali panel. Best option would be go for the removeable type Brian
  14. I run a 3.67 diff in my 1961 Lotus 7 S2 it has a 1300 A series engine with approx 100bhp and a C/R gearbox using 6000rpm this gives me 40 mph in first 70 mph in second 90 mph in third and 120 in 4th in theory!! but actually a nice cruising revs at 80 to 90 .It is not a town car and needs 3000 revs to be on cam but is fun on the open road I think a Sierra auto diff would be what you need and is 3.36 Hope that helps Brian Edited by - Brian Soper on 22 Feb 2011 13:15:35
  15. I used Spax for 25 years on my L7 S2 OK I had 3 sets but 1970s technology the last set was purchased in 1993, then changed to AVOs a great improvement, I use 125 rears these are Ok for fast touring fully loaded Brian
  16. Come along to the Oxford meeting tonight at the Wagon and Horses at Culham A415 to discuss wheel bearing and assorted other topics Brian L7S2
  17. I would set the engine up first ie TDC no 1 then remove , it will be the O ring holding it , there is nothing you can do to stop the drive shaft moving as well but never happen to me before , its is easy to replace if it comes out you just need a long rocker box stud to lower it in. Suggest you get any A series manual or online to see parts etc and set up procedure ( I could copy if rquired and send attatchments) I have had lots of A series engine cars including my S2 7 ( but never a midet but I have remove an engine from one ) and I can never remember removing a distributorto remove a starter Brian
  18. I used a Unipren 70 ( special aircraft spec cable ) on my Lotus 51 no problems front battery rear engine and no problems but it does not have cold frosty mornings or damp conditions to contend with so the answer will always use the biggest cable you can for less resistance and easier starting in adverse conditions . Battery performance is also temperture dependant as well so with thick oil and damp mornings you need evey amp for cranking Brian L7 S2 , S4 & 51
  19. Andrew You will upset John Watson if it is not 'original bore' Brian S2
  20. Doug Nylon for the oil ( did have a copper one for a year was worried about failer so removed it). The water is probaly copper with a cotton cover has been in use since pre 1980 and no problems( if it failed I would only lose the temp not water!!) The stainless one look great , they would cope with abraision, high temp etc and look good but still need well supporting Brian
  21. Use cable ties to fix capillary piping and leave a loop with one or two turns approx 50 mm dia in the run near the sensor head , just cut ties and unwind the loop to remove. Worked on my S2 for 30 years and 100.000 miles but have only remove the engine twice in that time The trick is to support the capillary well including the loop with plenty of ties colour coded ones look nice!!!! Brian Lotus 7 S2 and S4
  22. This is an indicator switch !!http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct.asp?sg=1&pgCode=020&sgName=Electrical&pgName=Switches&agCode=0514&agName=Direction+Indicator+Switches&pCode=SPB120
  23. I have AVOs on my S2 Seven used for touring etc they beat the Spax as they actually work ,I purchased mine direct from AVO with new springs, suggest you keep to Standard spring rates unless you think you need to uprate I used 175 front ( A series engine so a little lighter) and 125 rear ( rides really well 2 up and big bag strapped on rear ) just added 2 psi to tyres for fully loaded Brian Soper
  24. This reminds me of when I replace my old brake hoses for stainless ones and was given all the parts to make my own up, The man said ' you cannnot go wrong and nobody has ever come back to complain !!!' Brian Edited by - Brian Soper on 1 Dec 2009 12:57:46
  25. another vote for Redline never failed me yet Brian
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