AnkerB-S

Thanks Roger, I think I have found some seals that will work properly. We shall see. When I have done the seals I have another question. I bought a head gasket and wonder whether it is installed dry, The old one was stuck really hard to both the head and case and split apart when we pried the head from the crankcase. Yes, using cylinder compression wasn't enough to loosen it, so I just wonder whether it was coated with castor oil or something else before installation. I did buy an incredibly expensive new head gasket and I would hate to ruin it by not installing it properly. Anker

I have pulled the head from my 1700 cc Xflow engine to inspect the valve train and cylinders for wear. The valve sheals are completely shot. They don't seal at all to the guides and poorly to the stems. I had bought some seals from Pegasus here in the US, but they are the wrong size. Can someone tell me what seals I need and where I can purchase them? Thank you in advance/Anker

Mine has a hydraulic clutch. Exactly the same issue. Gradual loss of clutch when warming up, pumping would work, dirty fluid.

I had the same issue. New master cylinder fixed it!

On mine, the slave cylinder pushes on the actuator arm. How would you do a cable?

That's a great idea that I will look into!

I drilled and through-bolted them with the screen in place. Didn't have a problem. I did grind off the piece of the bracket that extends past the upright.

On my 1987 Supersprint I removed the old fan and installed a modern fan on the front of the radiator. I also installed a manual switch on the dashboard. The relay actuation works perfectly and the car never overheated after I made the upgrade, so the manual switch really isn't needed. I occasionally use the manual switch when autocrossing which puts high loads on the engine for a short period followed by longer periods sitting still.

Interesting. I thought the noise was from the transmission. Olgawld, will you send me some information too? Thanks/Anker

I also have the same. You can firm it up by replacing the "lock nut" on the actuator arm with a real lock nut, which is thinner. The lock nut is right up against the ends of the thread.

Thanks Ww, Close, but not the same. Anker

I'll contact Redline, thanks!

I have looked around for a replacement lens for one of my backup lights. I'll deeply appreciate if someone can tell me where I can purchase it. Thans/Anker

My bad! Misread the diagram.

I find it difficult to believe that some Xflows rotate in one direction while others rotate the opposite way. Mine works as orangepeel61's picture,

The best approach is to unbolt the intake manifold from the head. That way you don't have to mess with the almost impossible to work nuts that connect the carbs to the manifold. All you need at socket wrench extensions. If you have the hose to the heater coming out in the middle of the manifold you need to reduce the coolant level. It also helps to replace the standard nut with a long one (I can't remember what they are called).

I would like the belts as long as they are in good shape. DO you have a picture? Anker

I replaced my Lucas electronic ignition with a distributor and Ignitor from Aldon. It has worked perfectly for me. Figuring out how to wire it was my primary concern since I didn't want to modify the stock wiring harness. If you decide to go the Aldon route send me a PM if you want any advice.

Mine are 151s. 87 1700 SuperSprint. But I did have an interesting issue with the carburetors: The car had a flat spot between 2000 and 3000 RPM and it spat through the carburetors on partial throttle. Also, big explosions out the exhaust. I asked around whether all SuperSprints had this issue and got more nos than yeses. I made an appointment with a shop that is familiar with Webers and they diagnosed the idle jets as being too lean. They ordered the next size up and what difference! No flat spot, no spitting, and no explosions!

Count me in too!

A set of alignment plates aren't expensive and are much easier than string. If you spend a bit more the plates can also be used as camber plates.

I decided to give it a try and the tach now works! Is there any interest in having me do a write up on upgrading from the Lucas electronic ignition?

I upgraded the ignition system of my 1987 Supersprint 1700 from a Lucas electronic system to an Aldon Ignitor. I have everything working except the tach. The tach is a VDO 333/230/147/3 and has three spade poles on the back labeled +, 1, and -. I assume + and - go to 12V+ and ground. My guess is that 1 goes to the negative side of the ignition coil, which also goes to the distributor. When I looked at the wiring diagram for the car there are two white and black wires going from the 1 pole on the tach. One goes to the negative side of the coil and the other into the Lucas module. I suspect that I just need to unplug the old spade connector from the tach and run a wire to the negative pole of the coil and forget about the wires from the electronic ignition, both on the tach and the negative pole of the coil. I believe that what is preventing the tach from working is the white and black wire that goes to the Lucas module. It is either holding the voltage high or low all the time. I should mention that I don't want to cut any of the original wires in case someone wants to bring the car back to completely original condition. Does this make sense? Thanks/Anker

Wear both a mask and gloves! The broken fibers will enter your skin and wander through your body, and if you breathe them in they will do the same in your lungs!

I bought a special trunnion oiling gun from Rimmer: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-BHA4576 A regular grease gun makes a real mess of the job. The seal isn't made for oil, and it will leak past it.