patibbitts
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Everything posted by patibbitts
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Here's a tip....... Do NOT buy the drill sets advertised on Ideal World TV shopping channel - they are 100% useless! Yes, they replace any breakage for 10 years, but in every instance when I've used a drill for whatever purpose (drilling wood steel, alloy or brick) - each and every 'cobalt' drill tip has broken - Mohamed knows why I purchased them, as we all know the sales people on there are proffessional liars. Cost £5 post each time for replacements! Must be old age.
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Don't forget all the current "recommended" oils are what are considered by many to be the lower quality end products. Comma was a reclaimed oil product when it first came out. Probably best to stick with the better quality products like Mobil, Castrol, Valvoline , etc. As many of the previous posts have realised, it is 100% purely a cost driven exercise, to recommend the lower quality suppliers.
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I have the main parts of a 1600cc Sigma Engine for sale. Unfortunately no ancillaries, like starter motor etc. Brought as a project to replace the engine in my car, but now up for sale. Engine is as new unrun. PM for details.
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I have a bare unused cylinder head for sale if anyone needs one. PM.me for details.
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Gents, Points noted with thanks.
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Anybody coming back with the change light wiring info pls?
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Great info Simon, thanks very much.
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My K Series 1600 Supersport is fitted with a CC 6 speed box, cruising is not very comfortable as the revs are quite high, higher than that of the type 9 five speed due to the 'overdrive ' nature of the fifth gear of the type 9 box, I believe? My question is:- Q: what is entailed swapping the 6 speed out, for a type 9? Q: if a basic type 9 is sourced from say ebay, would the first motion shafts' splines be compatible I,.e. a straight swap - Ford box to Rover clutch splines? Q: clutch cable connection set up? Q:which Bell housing is used? Q: gear lever position the same? Q: any trick bits required? Q: does anyone have a 5 speed they are not using?? (Pls)! Assistance greatfully accepted,
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Mine is an ECU2. But the car sales guy said it was possible to plug in to it and reprogram it/ upgrade / change / play with it ? Would that be possible if it were a CC Supersport upgrade- do you think?
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Any chance of the 6 speed bits pls?
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Jon, how to tell the difference?
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I have to replace the change light on my K 1997 Supersport. Only problem is the original light has broken and there's only a single black wire running from it to the Ecconoseal plug at the ECU - whereas the replacement light from CC has two wires (as you would expect), one with a pre-wired Ecconoseal plug pin and the other with a female spade or Lucar connector. Q: if the Ecconoseal pin is fitted, where does the spade Lucar terminal go to? Apparently CC did issue wiring diagrams showing how to install, in the day. Any help appreciated.
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Thanks for the replies. I have a 3.1 diff - is that too high?
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Wondering what Differential Ratio would have been installed by CC on my K Series SS 1600? The car is fitted with the 6 speed gearbox. Cruising in 6th at 60mph uses about 3000 rpm Just that I think motorway speeds are likely to be hard work for the engine and tiresome for the occupants? Is there a good 'compromise' diff ratio recommended, that still gives decent road performance but rather effortless cruising? Or am I just comparing it too much with modern 2K rpm / 80mph diesels? Thought appreciated,
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Oh, thanks for that - must look closer! Cheers,
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Thanks for the replies - much appreciated. I don't seem to have a thermostat housing anywhere in the plumbing. All the silicon hoses connect direct to metal tubes? Temperature consistently indicates about 82° on the gauge, the fan comes on and off if stationary or in traffic - which seems ok ? I'm just a bit neurotic as the recent headgasket weep has made me a little nervous regards water levels! - which I'll continue to monitor .
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Great replies Gents, thanks. (Especially the pictures Aeroscreens)! Yes, I purchased the new bolt on carrier from Redline Chris. The packet said 'removable Caterham racing carrier' - or something similar. The ends of the carrier have a 3/8 UNF -24 captive nut brazed in so I drilled holes through the existing stubs that were sawn off, and bolted the carrier in place. Allbeit that it's not that quick to remove (tank shift jobby) Seems fixed thanks Gents
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Started driving my K Series S3 1600 for the first time today after a rebuild. Water related questions please:- Q: Where is the normal water level indicated on the header tank of a K series? Q: Is there a thermostat fitted anywhere? Q: what's the best way to ensure the system is full / remove all air ? Q:if the header tank is filled, will it find its own level by dumping water - if so how? Q: Any other useful info regards water cooling. Replies appreciated,
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Thinking about it, the boss with the single hole was probably for the number plate light wiring??
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Gents thanks for the replies. You are both correct, having removed the full width rear numberplate the lower frame tube is visible. There are 2no. remnants of the original sawn-off tube wheel holder that appeared to be brazed into the rear rail. I'll drill and bolt it on methinks? Weird thing is one has a hole through and the other dosn't.
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I've just purchased a spare wheel carrier with bolt holes in the ends of the tubes - how and where is this attached to the body? I haven't removed the number plate yet - are there mounting holes there? Assistance appreciated
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Update: I reset the inertia switch for the fuel pump (why did that trip methinks?) - still no go! I touched the connections on the starter relay and BINGO! - it turned over. I'm now concerned that this is going to be troublesome in the future so will replace the relay and re-make the connections (they look very heath Robinson! ) Should start up when I try later (I hope!) Thanks for the replies and assistance.- much appreciated.
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During work on my water rail, I disconnected the water sensor (brown sensor connection plug) - would this being disconnected cause the engine not to want to turn over and just cause a 'click', 'click' sound come from the ECU ? The rail isn't refitted yet, but the engine won't prime or turn over. Any thoughts pls?
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Bag on! - I do have an Apollo - so now I know! Many thanks for the replies gents!
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Oh, great answers - I 'll check as soon as I get the car running again - thanks!
