patibbitts
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Everything posted by patibbitts
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Resolution as promised - however I must admit I feel a bit of a fool! - the toggle switch I thought was the Fog light switch wasn't! The fog light switch and light work OK (only on dipped beam - as suggested) - but the other 'flick switch' next to the indicator flick switch, is the one that still remains a mystery switch. Q: any ideas what this switch does? (it's a Single action on/off). Embarrassed,
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Thanks for the positive answers gents - I'll endeavour to report back once a water rail and water pressure check have been carried out. .......
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Thank you kindly for the very quick replies gents - I'll check both before doing the job again. Much appreciated info.
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Jim, thanks for the reply - yes headlights on - tried both dipped and main, but no go. All other circuits working OK. ??
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Thanks for the reply - I did actually do the 180/180° regime, typo! Quite confusing info out there - seemed like the elastomer gaskets were a no no - with the metal ones being recommended 100% by all and sundry? But I must admit I can't quite get my head round using a steel metal gasket without some sort of gasket goo ! In your experience does the weep seal up when normal engine running temperature is achieved, or do I need to strip her again, for sure?? Regs
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The rear fog light isn't working, as I've recently purchased the car and not actually driven it yet, I've been rectifing all the electrical 'gremlins' associated to lack of use. The indicators were in a similar state, but the constant switching on/off of the Hazard switch cured these (as advised upon checking the forum for relative answers ). Q: is there a similar fix for the fog light? Q: I assume the dash mounted fog light switch is the toggle switch next to the indicator toggle? Any help appreciated,
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Following the headgasket replacement (including. Water pump, upgraded oil ladder & timing belt replacement) - the engine started OK - but has a water weep / drip from the headgasket joint area behind the timing cover on the exhaust side. During the refresh, the head was skimmed and overhauled. The new stretch bolts were torqued to 20NM + 90 + 90° as prescribed. A new MLS gasket & 'loose' shim was fitted. Q: any ideas how to resolve the issue, I notice that the very latest gasket available is rivited together - mine was in three separate parts - have I used the wrong gasket methinks? Or would the bolts take more torque to try to pull it down tighter, before a repeat strip down? Your thoughts / similar experiences would be appreciated
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Thanks for the detailed reply, great clarification ta! I see now what was being suggested, by using the 'twist' action, on the long run. Looks like the cam cover is coming off again - sooner than expected! Gents, Many thanks for your assistance on this subject.
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Wrightpain, thanks for sticking with me on this one, it's much appreciated. I'll see if I can find one on ebay - unless you could suggest an item number?? Where did the supersport upgrade come from, who sold them? My rocker box has the red aluminium 'Supersport' logo centre infill plate, but I was told lots of people just purchased that on its own, without actually doing the full upgrade? The pictures you suggest would really help, if you get chance, thanks. As I say, I haven't started or driven the car yet, so this is all new info. for me. It looks like it has been tracked often by the looks of the overall spec. You help is appreciated - any chance of a chat on the phone?
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Can't believe it's possible to bend the belt through 90° !! Surely as described, the long run from the exhaust gear to the crankshaft need needs to remain absolutely taught ?? Please clarify?
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Wright pain thanks for the reply. I just checked it and I think you are correct! It seems to originate from the centre ecconoseal plug on the ECU. I've not run the engine yet since buying the car - hence all the tech questions. I was in quite a rush to remove the engine and had to take the snipers to this wire! I tried to remove the warning light end but broke the bulb in the process. Would a new light and holder /wire be obtainable? Or is there a simple replacement? Do you know the type and wattage of the bulb? Many thanks for your help. Pat.
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Installed on my K Series 1600, There's a single 'clear' coloured warning light inbetween the circular speedo and rev counter, above the ignition light and high beam warning light, I was wondering what it's function is? It has a single black wire feeding it from the ECU box that seems like an 'aftermarket addition' - (I had to cut the wire when removing the engine recently - as there was no connectors installed!). Maybe a change light? I have to replace the bulb which may be an LED, so could do with finding out what sort / size of bulb to use?? Anybody have a similar installation and able to assist identifying it's use please?
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My K Series 1600 has a manual adjuster for cambelt tension. I'm about to set the cam timing and would appreciate some advice please..... Q1: Can anyone advise how to set the correct tension on the belt please? Q2: I assume the spring attached to the camber tensioner is NOT used to set the tension - so what's it for? Q3: Torque setting for large tensioner centre fixing bolt, and torque setting for cam tensioner adjuster lock bolt? Q4: How to lock the flywheel to torque up the crankshaft pulley nut to 205NM? (I used a screwdriver in the ring gear via: the crank sensor appature to remove it) Any help much appreciated. Pat.
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Can anyone help with advising the best solution regards locking the flywheel / crank, whilst trying to remove the crank pulley nut, on the Rover K Series engine? Does anyone know who produces a locking tool that can be inserted into the ring gear or flywheel on the drivers side engine appature - perhaps Laser Tools, or suchlike? I intend to use an air ratchet gun to spin it off. Any advice appreciated.
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Thanks for the replies gents, very much appreciated.
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Many thanks folks, seems I purchased the new foam in vain! Just to confirm, is anybody there able to supply any details regards the accurate positioning and size of the holes, to be made in the sump gasket? Is it ok to reuse the sump gasket? What are the torque settings for the sump bolts when reusing the sump gasket? (Unfortunately I don't have a 'user manual' for my K Series)
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Thanks for sticking with me on this one! - Is it just sandwiched/clamped between the plate and bottom of the oil ladder- effectively held with the 2nd. X 8mm bolts that bolt through the ladder?
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Many thanks for the reply. Great picture! If I were going to install the foam, where is it positioned and how is it held in place, pls? Help much appreciated.
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Great reply thanks. Thought that might be the case. Although most/all the YouTube videos on the subject (by Moss and Rimmers, etc,) don't mention using it. Much appreciated.
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When the carrying out the replacement of the recommended upgraded oil ladder to a K Series, is it necessary to seal around the oil ways before fitting it to the bottom of the block, if so what sealant is prescribed?
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Just wondering if the use of sump foam is recommended in K Series & how it's fitted?
