GasMan

Go with the Raceco. You won't be dissapointed. So Light (Titanium one anyway)and very quiet, or so it seems after clapped out 5" Caterham one. Its also beautifully made. As Graham Hill once said if it looks right it probably is right. 😬

I have Dunnell 2.0l on 45's 193bhp at flywheel. I have had a DUNNELL ECu for 7 years never problems the engine has been bullet proof. I also have bought a number of items from Raceline also very good. You pays yer money and makes yer choice

Steve Go for the zetec. I initially put 45's on a standard engine with Dunnell 3D ECU Manifold and Exhaust and got 165BHP and bomb proof. The good news doesn't stop there. The spread of power is great, It doesn't weigh much more than a crossflow (I took a crossflow out of mine) is a very easy fit and drives beatifully. Yes it is a bit quieter but that's only on standard cams. Later put some new cams in and the induction noise of the cross flow all comes back. Also if my upgrade to injection comes off I'll be selling twin 45's a Dunnell ECU and Loom and Paul Dunnell will remap the ECU FOC to suit if I go his route. Remember with a Zetec your only just starting! Cheers Gasman

Thanks to all for the advice. Still not a lot wiser> Although in principle I don't like the unprogrammability of the Dunnell ECU it would be a perfect match for my engine and living on the Isle of Man a trip to a rolling road really is awkward. I have have had the same Dunnell ECU for 7 years and had it reprogrammed by Dunnell when I upped the power from 165 to 193 and it has been totally reliable. On the question of fuel tank. How do I fit a swirl pot? And if retaining the original tank where's the best place for the fuel lines and do I need to replace the existing one for high pressure tubing? Is it OK for the return line? Gasman

I have a 2l Dunnel Zetec on 45's in my Caterham Dyno sheet shows 193BHP at 7000 and peak torque 156 Lbft from 5000-6000RPM. Although this is great I am thinking of going for injection. Dunnel's Clubman Injection is tailor made and he suggests 208BHP increased torque and driveability. But it is pricy and seems to need Dunnel to do any subsequent mapping. For the same money I can get a system from Raceline and the Catarham Injection fuel tank. They say they can provide a pretty good match regarding a map and the ECU they use is readily programmable. Due to geography a trip to a rolling road is not really an option. Has anyone got any advice?

Arnie will this foul my rear ARB which is hung from the spring damper top mounting? Matthew

Alex I bought Leda's from James Whiting they may be a bit heavy but they are terrific. You will probably need the longer top to get the wishbone clearance. Matthew

4 1/2 litres is what he told me to put in mine Matthew

I Want to purchase 7*13 superlites for my dedion and get the widest track within the rear wheel arches. What is the correct offset for this ? Matthew

Ammo. I have an '89 De Dion and when I changed to 13 inch superlites the wheel just fouled on the de dion tube at the meaty square section plate. I thought about spacers but the standard nuts are a bit on the short side for comfort. My solution was to take just enough off the square section corners with an angle grinder. Sounds drastic but you only need to remove a very little bit of metal. GasMan

I recently replaced slicks for hillclimbing with ACB10's. The poeple at BMTR's motorsport division told me that with any treaded competition tyre they should all go on and rotate according to the arrows. Only with slicks do you need to have the driven tyre rotate per arrows and the freewheeling tyres reversed.

I am thinking of Injection for my 2L Zetec. I could buy a complete package from the likes of Dunnell or Raceline or I could try the DIY route. I would like to keep the original bonnet and so need a system that would be a direct replacement for thin 45's. Any suggestions from those of you who have done this. GasMan

Ammo A few years ago now I retro-fitted the A frame top wishbone and ARB to my 1989 De-Dion without any problems. The holes in the Ali were a bit heart stopping! I retained the negative camber lower wishbones and the trunion based uprights. Although the taper into the upright on the new A frame is not a perfect match I am told its OK. I gave my car some serious exercise with sprints Hill climbs and track days and when I very recently changed to wide track front there was no apparent wear at the tapers. Until I changed to wide track this was definitely the best modification I had done in terms of improvement per pound. If you do change the lower A frame make sure you get the correct front bushes. Early cars have the split bobbin type with non parallel sided tube where they seat. I had a bit of a job getting the wide track lower A frame to fit to my 89 car, but it can be done without too much bother and its really worth it. All the best GasMan.

Don’t ignore the upgrade route. Ok it may cost more in the long run, but you can spread this out as funds allow. You know your 1700 Super Sprint is a good starting point. I bought mine new in 1989 and with advice from independent 7 experts I have progressively upgraded it, doing the majority of the work myself. I have a 190 bhp Zetec; AP 4 Pot front brakes; Latest wide track front end (second front suspension upgrade); Leda adjustables all round; adjustable rear anti roll bar and I have just fitted one of Steve Perks’ close ratio semi-helical boxes and I can’t wait for spring. The satisfaction of doing this oneself is tremendous. So it may not be a Superlight R, but it wouldn’t be far behind. It goes like stink, handles fabulously and there’s plenty more to come. And why give a large chunk of your hard earned wedge to Caterham every time you covet the next man’s Superlight R? I guess it all comes down to money again.