GasMan

Stu away for weekend will post pics on Monday. Steve already out and separated it's the new CRA bottom fork is too narrow to go back in. Matt

Stu there's no way the peg is going to fit in the fork without some modification. I wasn't going to open it out perhaps machine it. when I'm home I'll blatmail you a phot of the two ends so you can see how different they are? Matt

Hi Martin, I'm away for weekend so can you continue advice on blatchat (difficulty picking up emails). Mike and I (mostly Mike with help fro me) removed engine yesterday, 7.5 hours!! On removing old CRA can see how bent it is. New one is strengthend Problem is at lower end it's much narrower and wont fit over peg that it pivots on will need to get either new peg from Caterham (if they have modified it) or get lower end ground or machined to accept existing peg. Haven't told Paul I've attempted this myself!! He's shut all next week too. Had I taken it to Paul it would be finished by tonight. Just goes to show when you try to save a few bob!! Hope to be back on the road for no limits? Best wishes Matthew

Fishy, thanks for that good to know there's been an upgrade. Is it easy to tell when I get mine that its been beefed up? Matt

Mav, Roger, Thanks will look into that. Dont want to replace it only to have it bend again in no time. Hopefully it will arrive today. Matthew

Thanks again Stu, CRA ordered from Caterham will get it swapped over and then get the original repaired as a spare. Matt

Hi Stu, Thanks for the photo, Guess its engine out then. Had my daughter press on clutch pedal whilst I looked along the arm and it was not as described in previous threads. No obvious folding of the arm, possibly a little flexing? But I guess its only a matter of time before it fails/folds completely. I might try changing cable first. Matthew

Hi Mav, Thanks for that. Thought it might be the bending problem Matthew

By the end of the Club Cadwell Park track day I was having trouble disengaging the clutch. Same thing happened last year but I was able to adjust this on the cable and all was ok. Question is, is this cable stretching or is the Clutch Release Arm bending? I have an R500 with a multi plate racing clutch int it takes a fair effort to depress it. Obviously changing the cable would be far easier than changing the Clutch Release Arm. Any ideas, known faults? Advice would be greatly appreciated. Matthew

Hi Geoff, If there's space at brands GP August put me down for a place. Matthew

Ammo you are a priceless gem. Your sons will be very proud of you if they are not already. Thank you. Matthew

Hi Ian, Yes I agree. Looking forward to seeing you again at no limits. Paul, Thanks for your help. I know how busy you are just now and really appreciate your advice as always. Matthew 😬

Sorted My car has a 5th button identical to all the others which is dedicated to the Aces shift light. I have to hold that in to adjust the brightness. Thought I would add this post in case anyone else inadvertently switches off the lights. Many thanks for the posts putting me in the right direction. Matthew

Thanks Markiebabes. Yes I got all that from the Stack website. But as I go through the menu options I cant find one for the aces brightness adjustment. I must be thick The download manual does talk about custom preconfigured systems ie R500 may have options not covered in the manual and read info that came with the car originally. Of course thats long gone. Any suggestions 🤔 Matthew

Ok so I have tried the Stack buttons but cant find the right sequence of buttons. Anyone know which buttons? Thanks Matthew

Thanks guys. I think this must be it as I had been fiddling with the stack buttons prior to the track day trying to figure out what each did. I think I inadvertently turned the aces off then today trying to sort it I have just got them working at a very low level. I will try to brighten the lights wit the Stack buttons tomorrow. This club is so great. Matthew

Help please. My K series R500 shift lights failed to operate at Cadwell yesterday. On switching on ignition no initial lights and nothing whilst driving. Trailered through some pretty heavy rain on Sunday and although under a rain cover sunday night it rained heavily all night. Now despite control unit mounted under scuttle the atmosphere would have been pretty damp. Back home today I have checked there is power to the unit and the earth is good all other connections seem fine. After fiddling with the earth and switching on ignition I noticed the lights came on but very dimly. Normally they are very bright. This seems to suggest to me a problem with output from the controller. I can find no reference to this problem in the Aces on line support. Has anyone suffered a similar problem? Any suggestions. Could it just be the damp atmosphere? Thanks in anticipation Matthew

Does anyone know of a mount that can hold the I phone 4 securely for use with aero screens or roll bar mounted? Matthew

Sorry GJT I have to disagree. They only go pop more often than others when taken to the wrong builders. Many tuners have tried to engineer out problems that don't really exist and make great claims but have actually introduced these problems. Any K that is properly built by those that understand the design in the first place as per Oily and Ruff 7 here on the IOM will behave itself. Of course if you rag a race spec K from cold you can expect trouble. I know of several highly tuned Duratecs and Vauxhalls that have lunched themselves for various reasons. I know this topic has been done to death in previous threads, but I have now driven BEC, duratec, Zetec, Crossflow, Vauxhall, & K engined 7s and for what its worth I think the K and BEC are the engines that best suit the 7. I do think its a shame Caterham never built a factory Hayabusa engined 7. Ok I know they approved the one done in BC Canada. If you can't get your hands on a Hayabusa 7 then a hot K will surely keep you smiling. Matthew

Hi Geoff, Really big thank you for another stonking day at Cadwell. After nearly 2 years off with no 7 it was great to get on track again. Also a big thanks to Paul for building me such a great car. So good to catch up with old friends again. Matthew

Hi. You could try the Admiral Rodney In Horncastle. That's where quite a few stay and I will be there Sunday night. Matthew

Matthew, there are a number of things to consider. 1. Its 2011 2. Live axle its not just about power but grippy tyres road or road and track? 3. once you are used to the power you will want more. 1. in 2011 there's no sense in upgrading your crossflow. high power from crossflows need high maintenance. 2. live axle with grippy tyres is not good unless the axle is modified, ie baffled or changed for english or atlas version 3. you will love the torque and flexibility of a nicely specked zetek., Also a mildly hot cam will return all the induction noise of the crossflow. I know I did it. My advice would be to sell your car as is and look for a 2litre zetec 7 with about 200 - 220 bhp and you will be in heaven, but you really shouuld chose a de deon axled car. Hope that helps. Matthew

I would be very interested too Matthew

Thanks guys, I dont need it on the rear wings they are already covered but was thinking about the flanks. My last car got really peppered and I was hoping to reduce this on the new one. From the feedback so far it doesn't sound as if the problem of going milky is a real one for a seven which is garaged and doesn't spend hours outside in all weather. Think I might go for it Matthew

POBC please. I am having a complete restoration of my 7 and was wondering if a stip of this down the sides is worth doing to protect the paint between the wheels. I have been told it can go milky with time and then when removed you have two different shades of paint due to the UV fading the paint which is not covered. I would appreciate the opinion of those who have experience of this. Matthew