Benton

In my experience if you've got lowered floors/leather seats the first point of contact is usually the seat retaining bolts, next the sump guard, unless you've got a 620 in which case the side pipe leading to, and the rear exhaust usually wins the prize of trying to grind itself away first. I'm sure you could find some other parts as well!

No idea if this will work/be durable enough but might be worth a go at the price https://www.screwfix.com/p/sika-sikaflex-ebt-all-weather-sealant-clear-300ml/7286d

Having encountered similar, the only semi-permanent solution I've got to work is to buy some rubberised foam strip off Amazon/ EBay etc., similar to the existing Caterham stuff but tougher, and "line" all around the engine bay. For the sides you can attach the tape to the bonnet bottom edges if you prefer, plus some tape around touch points of nose cone to front of body. One disadvantage of this approach is that you spoil the "shut lines" (for want of a better phrase) of the various components however since the original problem is caused by the misalignment of the various parts with rubbing happening in certain concentrated areas in the first place ..... You also are left with a thin black "trim line" around the various components, unfortunately I found that if I tried using thinner or less tape it did not solve the problem. An advantage of using the tape is that by definition it'll tighten up all the appropriate fixing points. The tape won't last forever but it's cheap and easy to replace and saves you having to keep going back and touching up the paintwork. As a complete (caveat untried/tested by me) alternative approach how about trying some strategically placed blobs of flexible clear silicon sealant around the known troublesome points to provide a buffer?

Used U-POL Gravitex plus on wheel arches. Horrible black sticky gooey stuff to apply but a couple of coats does the job! Wouldn't want it on the floor or fuel tank though.

Joking apart, I liberally spray ACF50 in all likely areas 2 to 3 times a year. My last Caterham covered over 16,000 miles in over two years and was used all year round wet/dry and no doubt exposed to salt etc. (I remember got some funny looks driving around when there was still snow hanging on the branches!) During last lockdown (March) did a thorough top to bottom clean and check. Apart from some light surface rust on some of the bolts/threads that could be cleaned off and some pitting of the chassis rails/axle due to stone chips the rest of the body/grot trap etc. corrosion wise looked fine. Cleaned all the old protection off and reapplied. If I planned to keep the car for the next 10 years I might have adopted a different strategy but reality is I change my cars on a regular basis and indeed am now on to my next Caterham, though it will be treated in the same way as before.

...... and go and make a cup of tea ;-) I"m with David!

If you want a pair of wiper blades that actually work rather than the half hearted attempt the Caterham ones provide I recommend you try the equivalent size Car Builder Solutions ones Unfortunately they are more like £20 a pair and only come in chrome, but this is easily rectified with a black rattle can. Used them for over two years on previous car.

Excellent! Thanks for the other suggestions

I've decided that in the depths of winter it's a good time to try an Aeroscreen! and have already on order a list of parts. I want to be able to easily swap between screens and hence am planning to leave the wiper shafts etc. in situ. What I'm looking for is some suitable rubber "caps" to cover the shafts when the wipers are removed. I've tried Googling various things but obviously I'm using the wrong description/terms! Can somebody please point me in the direction of / recommend some suitable covers? Cheers.

Highly recommended

Thanks for the clarification, hope you get it sorted soon John

I thought the 620R and S had Ford diffs? I haven't examined it closely but superficially my 2018 620R diff is different from the BMW one I had in the 420R?

"I got married there (random fact)"..... Hopefully you didn't raze the roof!

Seen whilst passing other way on my motorbike

"Momo centre for steering wheel" please, PM sent

NOW SOLD - Black/Red Softbits half hood in very good condition for SV chassis and standard roll bar - £75 includes p&p NOW SOLD - Caterham Duratec Dry Sump Dipstick (the triangular shaped tank) in very good condition - £40 includes p&p

As above! Thanks

So for the record...... Ordered in late 2017, picked up my 420R in March 2018, knew nothing or advised about LSD requirements/issues. Transmission has always been noisy in my car from day one, but to me no more so than any other Caterham I've driven. Around June this year 15,000 miles later (I know an astronomical mileage in the timescale it seems in Caterham terms!!!) noticed "clonking" turning at low speed. At yearly service in July told LSD had failed (was a carbon plate one), an exchange "off the shelf" diff was fitted (with sintered plates) and which after some correspondence the cost was covered under warranty. Whilst I'm sure I'm technically capable of rebuilding the diff (given some basic pointers, probably more of a pain getting it out of/ back in the car, since I've messed about with engine and gearbox rebuilds in the past) this new opportunity doesn't exactly fill me with joy.....

Thanks, I just realised it's not the first time you caught me at Seaford

Guilty ... I was sitting on the beach with the seagulls, enjoying a sausage roll and a coffee!, before a Birling Gap/Beachy Head blast and heading back to Surrey

I'll take them if still available, you have PM(s)

Friendly wave exchanged

Bit late now since you've cut the wire but as mentioned above take a look behind the dash to the far right, lurking behind the light switches in my 420R, were a set of spare set of the required power, earth and signal connections, presumably in the loom for when a factory fitted ACES unit is used.

So as we type I'm addressing the cable situation. Mine was cable tied to the A frame, having cut the ties the rubber hoses could have been positioned and cable tied as seen in the Iva illustration, so why they aren't who knows. I've got a couple of areas that now need repainting due to corrosion where the cable ties were attached. Gives me something to do though :-)

Whilst checking out the overall condition of the underside today came across two areas that require attention. The first was the missing powder coat/rust patches on both sides, I assume caused by road debris thrown up by the rear wheels. The second area, mirrored on both sides was the attachment of the handle brake cable. Is it meant to be attached in such a crude manner (the car was built by caterham btw)? Shouldn't the cable ties be at least wrapped around the rubber tubing thus holding the cable slightly away from the frame? The cable ties are so tight atm that I'm sure this is how it was assembled and the rubber hasn't slipped out.