nic.day

I had a loud knock last year - turned out to be a broken diff mounting bolt Do a nut and bolt check!!!!

Hi Neil, so sorry for the delay in replying. I am away working until the weekend. So I can get a photo to you this weekend if that’s alright.

I have a leather one if that is any good

Cheers John

After a set of arm rests to add to my half doors (S3 by the way) And also a boot cover the again will fit the S3, no hood sticks and the road sort double D cage Many thanks Nic

not sure on the year but its a 1.8k from memory - I have forwarded him all the replies - thank you

I have a friend who has a 7 and has not used it for quite a while. He is trying to re commission it and get it started again. I am defiantly not the person to help on all things electrical. Anyway, he sent me this to ask you fine lot for some suggestions. The car was working fine (although it has had very little use), but now won’t start. We have power, starter motor sounds fine the only immediate different is that I can’t hear the petrol pump priming. Research has told me to disconnect the wires leading to the fuel pump, so using the brown and blue wires I’ve hooked them up directly to a battery (blue to the negative and brown to the positive) and still can’t hear the fuel pump doing anything. Is it safe to say the fuel pump is dead or have I tested it wrong? On a side note, the fuel idle valve (I think that’s what it’s called, attached to the side of the air intake plenum, again, what I think it’s called), is making a strange noise with just the ignition on, not sure if that’s connected? But the fact the fuel pump won’t even make a noise when connected to a battery makes me think that’s the issue

Get the LSD - even if it does not help massively with traction - you will be able to do DONUTS!!! and that is worth the cost alone!!!

So Steve Greenland is a master! it was some small corrosion in the connector for the injectors, plus a small bit of corrosion in the ECU connector. Plus a setting in the ECU was left 'open' instead of closed. This would effect the map if the connector got any damp. runs now and going to see Steve properly soon, for some more of his magic. happy man here and it means I am coming to Donnington!

That was my winter job, new rockers from redline and new metal toggles too. Such a difference.

Update - had a local 7 specialist around yesterday - found that the inlet gasket had gone on number 1 and going on 4 as well. Changed and it sort of started - was backfiring and missing. Seemed like the timing was out. So check that everything mechanical was all ok, then checked the plugs, leads etc. All good there, Next check the earths and they all seemed good too. So we think it is a sensor - so hopefully we have a guy with a laptop coming tonight to plug in!!! All this has to happen before this weekend - I wonder if I am coming in the 7 or the tintop!! I really do hope it is a simple plug and play sensor now!!!

This has been an interesting subject for me as well. I have a R500k n umber 19 - I asked Martin about the history of mine and the rumors that the chassis of the R500 had bits taken off etc. The reason was I wanted to add side impact protection but I discovered the boss at the top rail (3 point seat belt boss) was missing. Martin checked and the answer came back that certain things were removed for the R500s. but it was not documented as was the way back then.

Defiantly has spark, with a little help (thanks Derek) - Next step - I am going to change the crank sensor to see if that solves it. Working the way through

No idea if I have the right voltage (way over my knowledge level!!) I have changed everything back to the old cap, rotar, leads etc. Also cleaned plugs, checked gaps. It is trying (but it was before with the new parts) its seems to be exactly the same old or new. I am completly lost now

This morning - king lead changed back to the old one - no joy Dizzy cap changed back (and checked as per Oily suggestion) no joy Car flooded now - so walked away Its trying to start- I guess the plugs are black - so will take them out and clean them up before trying again later. Any other suggestions???

Thanks Oily, going to try the old king lead first ( with the gaffer tape) then the old cap etc.

I am pretty sure I have, I marked each one in its position with tape and its number before I took anything off. Then matched and checked twice - I double checked that everything was pushed on tight too. My main suspect is the connection to the coil - it just felt not as snug as the rest. Going to try the old lead (which it the gaffer covered one!!!!!) and see if that makes a difference.

So we know it was a arcing from the King lead to the tower - got it started with the help of gaffer tape and got me home. Ran alright once it was hot and the plugs had cleaned themselves. Ordered new cap, rotor and leads from Redline on Monday and just changed them all just now - car is struggling to start. Black smoke from the exhaust so its flooded. Turned off and shut garage door before I swear more. I am now fed up and don't know what to look at next - it use to start on the button

Piers = that was my thought Stu - new leads to be fitted I agree to solve the pin hole issue

Thanks Chris - yes got home alright. As I said the mystery is solved (I hope) of what was causing the misfire, not starting and strange symptoms - I had even talked to Troy when I arrived about what it could be. Gaffer tape solves lots

I agree Derek - it was a bit tongue in cheek about the CF!!!! But in seriousness - something the insulates as a back up might be a good idea though

Was bloody fed up down there BUT the positive was I found the issue because of it. I got home alright, and new leads, cap etc ordered - So fingers crossed this will solve it. The question is now - what can I put round the tower to stop it happening in the future - someone must have come up with a solution May be a nice curved piece of CF as a barrier between the tower and the cap

I have had some rough running and then at Brooklands it would not start - the arcing was the reason. Hence changing for new cap and leads.

Due to a change of car (garage clearout) I have both of these for sale Genuine BMW Aero Roof bars - bought with the X3 a couple of years ago from BMW - excellent condition £75 plus P&P EMUK taliered towing mirrors - these are made to fit the cars wing mirrors - amazing quality and the best towing mirrors by far - again for the X3 but also fit BMW - F25, G01, F97, F26, F15, G05, F16, G06 or G07 Check the EMUK.com website and search for a BMW X3 G01 and you will see all the list of other BMWs as above, so you can check the fitment to your car £75 plus P&P

Cheers Mark It just seems there is not enough gap between the tower and the cap - will have another go though