p.mole1
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Everything posted by p.mole1
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I seem to be suffering from quite a bit of under steer. It seemed particularly bad at Croft and the fronts were quite badly worn. My Car is a 1995 Super Sport narrow track. It has a rear anti roll bar on its softest setting the front anti roll bar has orange bushes. I am running 14 inch Toyo 888 all round at 20 psi with Nitron shocks with 200lb front and 140lb springs. My car has an open diff and is a 1,4. It could be down to bad driving as this is the first rear wheel drive car I have owned in over 30 years of driving. I would like to make the car a bit more neutral till I gain a bit more experience any ideas of what I should be adjusting
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Hi Charles, thanks just let me know and I will be in touch Best regards Phil
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Hi Charles I'll take the headlight brackets, the DVA sump gasket, the headlights if they 5 3/4 inch diameter. Are the injectors all black? as with part number S2 155 884 if so I'll take them as well Best regards Phil
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I'm after a pair of 5 3/4 inch headlamps either black or chrome Thanks
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Hi Richard, as standard my car had about 1.5 degrees of movement through its full travel! I just followed every ones advice and assumed it would need the rack lifting however this made the situation much worse. I have now got the bump steer down to about 0.3 degrees I could possibly get it lower but that seems close enough. To my knowledge it's an original rack,I had to remove it when I purchased the car as it had not been installed correctly It needed centering and moving on its splines and there was no pre-load on the rack damper.
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Bump steer cured, I ended up effectively lowering the rack by lifting the track rod ends. I used a 20mm spacer with a spherical rod bearing. I have no idea how this equates to the standard track rod end but the difference it's made is like night and day.
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Sorry to hear about your problem but I doubt its your valve stem oil seals unless your valve guides are shot and it would be smoking like a steam train on the overun. I am running a Janspeed head with no oil seals on any valves ( bronze guides on inlets) and I have done 3 track days running a 7800rpm limit and have not had to top it up in 1000 miles.
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File the bodywork, mine was the same and it wasn't the retaining channels it was the body work the,holes were in different positions don't assume Caterhams are built to mm precision.
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Had a great day at Croft with my aero screen, every little helps with a 1.4!
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Hi Paul, I run my car at 150 165mm F/R but on 185/60 14 tyres so it looks ok. With regards to bump steer mine is terrible but I am in the process of sorting it out, be careful and measure it.Not all racks need lifting, mine needs lowering!. I am having to lift the track rod ends also adjust everything first, camber, castor and toe then check for bump steer a few mm makes a big difference.
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Hi Paul, Are you sure you have the correct dampers? I had all sorts of problems with my car when I bought a set of Nitron, there are a few different lengths of dampers depending on year and track width. I have a 1995 car on 14" wheels with 60 series tyres. I am running a ride height of 150 mm at the front I could go slightly lower but I would be on the bump stops. The car seems to handle fine and I wouldn't be to concerned over the ride height as long as you have the the required rake.
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I am having some longer taper pins made, as this is my only option. My car is a 1995 vintage has anyone else with a car of this age checked for bump steer
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I bet it is gravel in the flywheel housing it is easy for it to get in there.
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Thanks, Seems like the way to go I am only looking to use it on track days. It should give me a bit more down the long straights at Croft. I still like the windscreen on the road as it gives me the option of using the hood when it rains and its cold up North! Tom did you fit some form of captive nuts?
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Do these make much difference on the track? I only have a 1.4 SS and it accelerates up to 100 mph then that's about it. Will it make a worthwhile improvement?, I am looking at doing track days at Croft which has long straights. I was looking at the Caterham aero screen kit which comes with everything, do you think this is the best value option. Has anybody just run without a windscreen and no aero screen? as I am looking at doing this as a cheap track day option and just fitting some captive nuts, however I am not keen on the lack of mirrors
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It would seem never take anything for granted. I fitted my rose joints and taper pins and I was pleased with my results. I lowered the rose joints 5mm and measured the results worse! It would seem in my case the rack would require lowering and don't just guess what spacers you need as a few MM makes a significant difference. Unfortunately my taper pins are not long enough to raise the rose joints the required height as I assumed that all the racks required lifting not lowering. back to the drawing board
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I am not keen on enlarging the hole in the body work
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Thanks, It hasn't quite gone to plan,after finally getting the track rod end off, (it was stuck fast on the taper) I found my tie rods were longer than anticipated almost bottoming out in the track ends. I could not use a male rose joint with a threaded spacer unless I cut the tie rods down and I don't fancy doing that. So now I am looking at using 1/2 unf female rose joints these are 15mm shorter but due to the length of the tie rods this still leaves 20mm of thread inside the the joint but these are not available with a 3/8 bore so I will need some 3/8 to 1/2 adaptors.
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Hi Paul, I have checked everything and all seems ok, my car uses the modern type upper wishbone. I am waiting for the rose joints to arrive and I'll see how that goes. I haven't been near the car for 2 weeks! Thanks
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Thanks for every ones help
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Thanks 1/2 unf,now I just need to order some bits up
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Hi Bricol I will have to have a look at my radius arms although if the bolts have been in place for over 20 years I may not be able to remove them. I am running 200 lb springs on the front and 140 lb on the rear the suspension is set on the softish side just because of the state of the roads. Tyres are at 20 psi ( 14 inch, this is the Caterham recommended pressure ) and a ride height of 145mm / 155mm with 60 profile tyres. From what I am hearing it seems like moving the angle of the steering tie rods is going to help. I suppose Caterhams thinking is it is easy to lift a steering rack but very difficult to lower one unless they come with shims fitted to alter the height. Does anyone know what the thread is on the track rod end as I need to find some 3/8 th bore male rose joints
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Hi Chris thanks I don't think my Caterham as the threaded boss in the body, if it does I would need to remove the wings also my rear anti roll bar mounts to same position as the Watts link. Hi Jonathan I am going to be changing my computer shortly so I will see what happens. I am utterly useless with modern technology, I don't do social media, email is about my limit,if it can't be fixed with a spanner or a multi meter I'm stuffed.
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Malcolm, did you measure the the geometry before and after ? or was it a recommendation. I have heard that the tie rod should be roughly parallel with the wishbones, if this is the case mine are not and it looks like the rack is too low.
