p.mole1
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Everything posted by p.mole1
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Engine is now in the car with the help of my wife! I have gone from a 1.4 k series to 1.8. I am running an Emerald ecu and the car was set up on a rolling road with 1.4 injectors. The new engine is the same spec but I will be using the cream 1.8 injectors, will the old map be ok using the 1.8 injectors? Also my car has its original copper radiator, this seems quite thin do you think this will be up to job on a 160 bhp engine?
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Hi Paul, Jenvey sells the fuel rail and you can get hold of a fuel regulator anywhere. The standard regulator sits too close to the back plate and is in a fixed position. You could use spacers between the trumpets and back plate or try Emerald adjustable trumpets which have a facility for mounting a backplate directly to the trumpets
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Yes thanks Malcolm I will use my existing pressure plate and clutch.
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I don't think it's that simple you may have to fit an after market fuel rail and pressure regulator and if you have the same intake trumpets as I have (90 mm) you will need a very deep filter.
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Thanks, first motion shaft cut and chamfered, I only needed to cut 10 mm off. I have bolted on the pressure plate, clutch and fitted the gearbox and all seems fine. I able to turn gearbox output shaft when in gear with clutch depressed so It seems I have enough clearance.
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Thanks, the engine was originally from an Elise but the guy I bought it from was going to put it a 7 and had already done the sleeve and spigot bearing. I must admit to being nervous about attacking my gearbox with chop disc. My car has been retro fitted with a light weight flywheel (1.4 SS) the clutch plate looks new and I was going to reuse this along with the pressure plate and new CRB. Will the pressure plate be able to cope with the larger capacity engine. The pressure plate has no manufacturers name just made in Great Britain and QY13000 and 2301 stamped on one of the springs
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My first motion shaft is too long?, the 1.4 crankshaft has a much longer drilling for the spigot bearing. I am trying to mate the gearbox to a 1.8 and it won't fit, the drilling for the spigot bearing is too short?. It looks like I will need to remove at least 10mm maybe more. I haven't measured it accurately yet. Has anyone managed to do this with a grinder, I will also need to regrind a taper on the nose of the first motion shaft.
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Mine is loosing quite a bit of it's powder coating, i think I will remove it now just for piece of mind. I would think Caterham would have to replace a failure free of charge as this certainly comes under the sale of goods act ie not fit for purpose or of merchantable quality. I own a BMW 1200 GS and it was recalled at 10 years old to replace a rear brake disc mount and fuel tank fitting.
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Hi everyone thanks, my drive is the mechanical type but a change to electronic may be an option in the future. The 90 degree adaptor is made by VDO and it has a thin washer soldered to one end. This is located to gearbox with a circlip. It looks like a bit of bodge and I think I may have broken it when I tried to remove the speedo cable before removing the gearbox. I have managed to re-solder it and it still works! I don't think this is how the drive was originally manufactured and it may have been repaired but it has worked for the past 2 years so I'll put it back in and hope for the best .
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Thanks Graham there is a bewildering number of clutch release bearings. The Burton Power angle drive is £114 yikes. Hi Wrightpayne I don't think Caterham stock the part anymore it's not the top hat, at least on my gearbox They do sell a brass threaded adaptor which fixed via the circlip I am assuming this would allow me fit the commonly available threaded 90 degree drives if there is enough space?
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Were can I get one ? it has come apart were it fits onto the gearbox. It is the 90 degree mechanical drive and has a steel washer which is soldered to the drive,this is located to gearbox with a circlip. I could try to re-solder it but I am assuming the drive cogs will be nylon. Also does anyone know what car the clutch release bearing came from, it must be a Ford but I can't figure out which one. While I have the gearbox out does anybody know how much play there should be on the first motion shaft? is it supposed to be like this? bearing in mind the other end is supported in the spigot bearing.
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I had the same issues with mine, your tyres should be 185/60 14 and 20 psi. My car had quite a few problems, incorrectly installed rack, saggy dampers, tracking was out and awful bump steer. It's now sorted and it's like night and day. The Super sport does not really have much go till you hit 5000 rpm you can rev it up 7600. This can be improved by timing the cams in properly, this made a massive difference on mine. It helps if you are handy with a set of spanners as all the work I have done on mine would have cost £1000s in labour
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The oil seal is very slightly off center, as if the bore for the oil seal has not been machined centrally, we are only talking fractions of a mm. It is a genuine Land Rover part. I will have to remove it and try the old pump, it could be the same and if that's the case it's ok as it didn't leak. It could just be a poor quality oil seal
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I am busy building up a 1.8 K series and have just fitted a new oil pump. It is supposed to be genuine Land Rover part, made by Brosal looks it was manufactured in 2005 When looking at the end of the crank, the oil seal does not sit centrally on the crankshaft if that makes sense. Also the cambelt pulley has quite a large amount of radial play, is this normal? Other than that everything else seems fine. I have used new main and conrod bearings,new liners and rings, second hand Trophy 160 pistons and the engine turns over at 12Nm at it's tightest spot with head on without cams. I'm quite surprised how free it is.
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Thanks Oily its off! engine is good condition, even the bearing shells. A couple of the main bearings are slightly worn, well polished. What type of main bearing shell do you recommend are VP2 bearings worth the expense? or should I just go for the Glyco cheap white metal ones.
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I've got the mohair SBFS half hood and it works really albeit a bit draughty but it keeps you dry. On a different note I find I get exhaust fumes in the car and as I don't have a catalytic converter it can cause problems after a while, probably carbon monoxide!
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I'm after a good crankshaft pulley preferably single pulley Thanks
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Hi Revilla, found it, operator error
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Hi Revilla that could be just what I'm looking for although I can't seem to find it on Ebay. Tried a 800 nm impact gun but it didn't budge so I resorted to heat and brute force using a 1 Kg mallet and it eventually gave in
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Thanks everyone, the remains of the stud sheared off flush with the block ,I had the remaining stud and nut nearly white hot! it's stuck solid, however the bolts seem to be very soft steel. I think Jims idea of using the old oil filter housing as a drilling jig seems the best option. I tried my own impact gun but it hasn't got enough umph! I enlisted the help of a hefty mate and all we did was bend the angle iron like licquorice! I may be able to get some help from Fire Appliance workshops they must have some substantial impact guns. The difficulty is holding everything rigidly in place so you can get enough force to shock the bolt loose.
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Thanks, I don't fancy my chances of drilling out a steel bolt from aluminium and I've had the studding red hot when I welded a nut to the remaining stud, I think it must stuck fast with corrosion.I will try some penetrating fluid but it seems locked solid Looks like I may need to get hold of a flywheel as I think there is to much flex in the bar not allowing me to shock the bolt loose.
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I am about to rebuild a 1.8 k series and it's not going well. One of the oil filter housing bolts has sheared off, F*** it's seized solid. It snapped leaving about 5mm proud of the block,so I welded a nut the remains and that sheared off ! How am I going to get the remaining stud out? Also any tips for removing the crank pulley bolt I am using a 1 meter bar bolted to the crank and an a 3/4 drive breaker bar on the bolt and I can't shift it.
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caterham 6 speed box gear not engaging properly into 2nd gear.
p.mole1 replied to kenneth.mula's topic in TechTalk
I don't think the chipped tooth will be causing your problem unless a bit of the tooth is lodged somewhere it shouldn't be. My gearbox does not like engaging 2nd gear in the cold, but was improved vastly by changing to Redline MTL -
Hi Nick, Thanks, you must have collected enough spares to build another car!
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Hi Nick Thanks is it oil tight Phil