Johnh

would be interested if anybody has experienced this problem. The engine in my caterham is a 1.8 Vauxhall 8 valve The number one cylinder is not working although the plugs are ok.. the leads check out and fuel is getting into the cylinder and the compression is up in line with the rest of the cylinders Also there is a good spark to the number one cylinder. Engine runs on 3 nothing from No1 completely dead doesn’t fire at all

I’m ok with fitting the guts of the carbs myself but want the whole package including blasting to look like new.. just looking to way up a few prices before I decide on my winter project

anyone have recommendations for someone to refurbish my 40 Webber’s?

Interesting but unfortunately I couldn’t get hold of the like for like girling parts or cylinder.. so gone with what is currently held in stock with redline i did find some reference to my girling cylinder being fitted to ford cortina and fiesta when flicking around the net.. I expect if I’d plodded on eventually I may have found one? It don’t feel good when it’s sick in the garage

All sorted all sorted..apparently the girling cylinder is a bit of an oddity according to mick at redline (mick is still there helping out for now) first he’s Heard of a tandem girling cylinder being used by Caterham’s he said.. so as it was difficult to source internal parts had to go with a new ap cylinder in the end.

Thanks for the reply Tony In my own experience as a retired motor engineer I would agree it’s always best to replace the whole unit but due to the cylinder bore is in excellent condition I personally would replace the seals on this one.. the problem is this cylinder is or seems to be a little difficult to get hold of..I’ll contact redline in the week to ask what stock they have for this cylinder tried calling but no answer (probably closed for Xmas). i would prefer to keep the unit original to avoid changing brake lines into the cylinder. if anyone knows where I can get a like for like cylinder if no kit is available let me know please john

has anyone purchased a repair kit for a girling tandem master cylinder No T74660152 Q57 recently? Be interested in supplier and price please john

Has any body had an ally cyl head hydroblasted? Will be doing a full top end overhaul soon.. the head has been ported so was wondering how hydroblast would effect and if I would have to repolish ports.. I have seen some results forum hydroblast on other parts such as carbs and was surprised with the Finnish.

Newton filler cap complete or just lockable cap on its own.

Having just done the one thing I always dreaded by loosing the fuel filler cap ..mines a lockable newton type.. would like to avoid cc parts price if possible any idea where to source a like for like one at a reasonable price?

I have the 1.8 8 valve and that gives out 120 bhp on paper but I've never checked ..if your sure you want to keep the car? try and source a complete 1.8 engine ..if it were me I'd upgrade the car for more power /suspension/axel and brakes in one hit if that's an option.

Rimmer bros do spitfire front hub and brake parts..mine are type 12 calipers on my supersprint which they stock along with pads shims Pistons and seal kits if required and an awfull lot cheaper than cc

Rimmer bros for the Triumph parts

sounds like someone has damaged the thread by over tightening with a windy gun? if that's the case? new studs and nuts will be required..not a difficult job as long as you get the same studs and nuts as the rest. do up with fingers only then tork up by hand.

I fitted new connector block on refitting but on my car the connection block is so close to the No 1 manifold pipe it's obvious some heat will be transferred.. basically it needs shielding..I'll check the archives

Reading post 3 and was wondering if there is heat shielding available for the alternator..I have had an intermittent fault where the battery light comes on whilst driving ..I had the alternator off and checked out by a specialist auto electrical company ..the wires/connections looked fine.. was told it was ok so refitted it with new belt and was ok but the problem happened again but this time was in heavy traffic and the engine was running a little hot .. when I got moving again the engine cooled a bit and light went out..I think the heat from the manifold is cooking the alternator enough to cause an intermittent fault?? if there is no heat shield available has anyone found permanent solution before I start making up something of my own?

If it's Triumph spit setup I'd contact rimmer brothers and save some money.. they have a good online catalogue .

I have just bought a set of 4 185/70/13 last week and so far not been able to get out more than a couple of times but realised I need to look a the pressures so set them at twenty psi and see where I go from there. so far pleased with the choice.

Any premium brand at the price and grade you want. Surely the big companies have done the science in oil. Do millers blend there engine oils? rgds ex motor engineer ​

Like the last post says..it's all on here ..never needed to look at mine.

keep it on a conditioner end of problem.. jumpers don't do the batteries any good ..just get you out of the poo

I wanted to make sure the foam was clear of oil to be able to do a proper examination of the baffle ..the sieve used showed no signs of sediment also .. can supply a photo of the foam if you like? ps power screwdrivers are a no no when doing up engine bolts .. it's always best trust the feel of different sized bolts by hand

Your rite Martym it's to stop the sloshing about and possibly not being sucked up the pick up pipe. As far as I am aware the foam redline supply is sourced from America hence the price I suppose. i definitely would not be tempted to purchase any of these foam baffles from an unknown and trusted source!! these 8 valve engines use a semi synth oil also.. as an ex motor engineer you know when an engine has been pulled apart for the first time as was the case with mine and there was little doubt that the foam was original so I was surprised to see it in the condition it was after hearing some horror stories about the foam breaking up and finding its way up the pick up pipe (nasty) ..I let the old foam drain for a couple of days and then tried pulling it about a bit to see if it crumbled but it stayed together..I just hope the new foam is as good as the original ... if you have one of these engines I would as a mater of caution take a look like I did.. one of the best tips I got from redline was to use the two long bolts that secure the rear of the sump pan as a guide when putting the sump back ..use them either side the sump as a support and guide when gently compressing the foam onto the windage plate then use the rest of the bolts to line it all up before refitting the two long ones into the rear of the sump pan. ​

Regarding the foam baffle question on 8 valve vx is yes they do and I've just changed mine.. the old baffle has been in for 16 years and looked no different to the new one I fitted which is surprising as I've been told the recommended change for a baffle is 3 to 6000 MLS I think that is a bit bonkers though.. (cost £52 ish inc vat from redline) the oil I've used for the past two years of ownership is a semi synth 10w50 changed every 3000 MLS. Motor was as clean as a whistle inside when inspected during the change. ps only use the genuine vx sump gaskets the flimsy cork ones without the tork limiters are are risky for leaks.

Leave mine on when cars not in use.. my ctek conditioner is probably the best accessory I ever bought for my cars and there batteries