orangepeel61

Or something like this? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-4V-38V-to-1-25V-36V-2A-Step-Down-Power-Supply-Regulator-24V-12V-9V-5V-UK/122572089413?epid=806469670&hash=item1c89dda845:g:GqEAAOSwVpVbIBvw

Thanks Roger.

Just wondering why its so important to use a thermostat housing with a vertical outlet, mine is like this: As the outlet is so close to the top would it make that much difference? (with a blanking cap fitted) Also, with a heater fitted does the bottom pipe from the header tank have to go into the bottom radiator hose or can it be tapped in to the heater hose? (would make plumbing easier)

The seats in my '87 Supersprint are presumably the same as yours and slopped back too far so I fitted spacers under the rear mountings which made a big difference. It was a while ago and I can't remember how big the spacer was but I'm sure it was less than an inch. Obviously it does raise the height of the seat a bit but that was fine for me being a short arse.

Have now fitted an additional mechanical switch, the brake lights (and the brakes) are now working fine. I'm convinced that this is a design fault, surely a hydraulic switch should be fitted in the primary circuit not the secondary. I don't think it is just the two of us Brian, there must be others out there!

I always put a 3mm washer under the rivet to give it a bit more strength.

I can't say if it's a new problem or not but I've only just noticed it! A guy in a MGB pointed it out to me, to which I stood on the brake pedal and showed him the lights were fine! It was only later when I checked more carefully I noticed the problem. I'm sure, like you I could pull up in slow moving traffic without the brake lights coming on. The MGB driver can confirm this. The car was MOT'd a few weeks ago and they didn't notice anything wrong, I'm convinced nothing has changed since then. It has crossed my mind that it has always been like this, if an MOT does spot it, how do you know? Added to that is the fact that the brakes appear to work fine! I have contemplated fitting a mechanical switch but hesitant because I don't want to hide an issue if there is a real problem but I'm coming around to your way of thinking. Would be interesting to find out if anyone else has experienced this.

Adjusted the rear brakes up but it made no difference, thanks for the idea Brian, it was worth a shot.

Yes it does have drum rear brakes and I replaced the shoes a few weeks ago! Don't want to count my chickens but I think you may have it! Thanks!

Thanks for the suggestion SM25T, couldn't wait any longer so bought an Ezibleed. I've done the whole system now but it's made no difference! Contrary to my last post there is a differential sensor where Nigel suggested, must have mislaid my glasses at that point. The rear brakes are working but not on initial application of the pedal, they start working when the brake lights come on as pressure builds up. This indicates that the switch is doing its job. So it looks like it's the differential actuator in the M/C but I can't understand why the warning light hasn't come on? So still looking for a repair kit.

Nigel The switch is mounted remotely and there's no bleed nipple, there's no differential sensor under the M/C either. (Presumably there must be one somewhere!) Thinking about what you said regarding the warning light, it seems unlikely that the rear brakes aren't working. (The warning light tests ok) I need to bleed the system before I go any further, just short of someone to pump the pedal at the moment. Thanks for your thoughts Neil.

Thanks Nigel That's given me something to go on. I don't think I've got a differential pressure contact, there's a blanked off port at the back end, maybe someone had the same problem! but thanks for the warning. I need to do some more research, my problem is the brake lights are not coming on until the pedal has firm resistance, the switch is hydraulic on the rear circuit, my initial thought was the master cylinder rear chamber wasn't working properly because changing the switch made no difference but maybe it's a differential issue. Think I need to Jack up the back end and see if the rear brakes are actually working then bleed the system and see if that has any effect. Cheers Neil.

I need to change the seals in my brake master cylinder but I'm having trouble identifying the cylinder. There is a part number on the bottom but I've only been able to read some of it: LOCKHEED .70 32 1 426 Not sure if there should be numbers in the gaps and the last 6 could be an 8. The car is a 1987 1700 Supersprint Hoping someone can throw some light on it.

You haven't said what idle jets you have (as a guide, for a 1700 Supersprint they should be at least 50F9's)

Eurocarparts are still doing the PC 680 for £86.49 including VAT and free delivery or collect. Use discount code "batt50" Just fitted a PC535 from them (in the original battery tray) all ok so far!

Anyone have any experience of the Odyssey PC535? Does it have enough oomph to run a crossflow?(Supersprint) The PC680 appears to be a more popular choice but the PC535 has a similar spec and unlike the PC680 is the right size to fit in the existing battery tray (under the carbs) I'm looking to replace the Banner with something that will last a bit longer! If anyone is interested, Euro Car Parts have a sale on at the moment: PC535 is £94.49 PC680 is £86.49

Just had a quote from Chris at Redline for an imperial set: Tunnel £78.00 Bulk head £36.40 Floor £26.15 each All prices plus vat, don't know about delivery cost.

Private message sent Neil.

Sorry can't help you there, my fronts aren't broken so I haven't "fixed" them! Good luck, I'm sure someone out there will respond soon.

When I got my car the back end was very spongy and grounded on the slightest bump. I spoke to someone at Redline who told me the early de Dion cars had springs rated at around 80lbs (or something like that?) Which is indeed too soft. From memory he said that the soft springs were blue, on checking mine under the grime and rust I found traces of blue paint! He suggested the correct springs for a standard car of that age should be 104lbs I took his advice and bought the 104lbs springs with Spax adjustable shocks and the car is now fine. Don't know who it was at Redline that I spoke to but he seemed to know his stuff, it was around 3 years ago. My car is an 1987 Supersprint, I only use it on the road and have it set up for couping with pot holes rather than racing. The part I ordered was: 79602 SPRING - REAR DEDION 09/88>07/91 Hope this is some help Neil.

Great news, well faffed indeed! I can't take any credit, I was only relaying what I'd previously learnt from Roger! Enjoy! Neil.

Tazio, just come across your post, you're probably sorted by now but just in case: I have recently replaced my oil pressure sender with this: https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/vdo-pressure-sender-5-bar-with-1-4npt-thread-360081029008 My original one was marked: 0-5 bar 12.85 (date? Car is a 1987) 29/39 The new one is marked: 0-5 bar 5.16 29/8 No idea what these numbers mean but it fitted my crossflow and I now have oil pressure! Neil.

Keith, Here's where I got mine: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-4-X-size-50f9-Idle-Jet-Weber-DCOE/172990586269?hash=item28470add9d:g:NSMAAOSwll1Wxcot When fitting the idle jets don't push them all the way into their holder, put them in far enough to locate and then let them find their own height by screwing them in place (hope that makes sense) I've picked up so many useful tips from Roger, he knows what he's talking about. Neil.

Hi Keith When I got mine 4 years ago it was running like a pig, over time I have fettled it to the point it is running really well. I do still have a slight hesitation at take off, wouldn't go as far as to call it a splutter but still working on it. Hadn't seen the threads about plug gaps, mine are at 30 thou, something for me to look at. Your idle jets sound too small to me, you should get a steady and strong increase in power as you go up the rev range. The main jets should kick in at around 2500rpm or so, if you get a surge of power as the mains take over it suggests that the idle jets are not delivering enough fuel, the transition should be smooth. This is one of the problems I had, I found some 50f9 jets new on eBay for about a tenner and just tried it, the difference was phenomenal. As I mentioned previously check your pump jets, they could affect your splutter. Having said all that, with your exhaust popping and carbs spitting your basic fuel setting is too weak, if you richen the carbs by say an eighth turn you'll notice a difference. Do it carefully so if it makes things worse you can put it back! Neil.

I suggest you sort out as much as you can yourself before investing in a rolling road, there's plenty of information on here if you do some research. If your ignition system and timing is ok then popping and banging exhaust and spitting carbs are both indications of a weak mixture. The splutter you talk of could be a number of things, carb balance is an obvious one and worth checking anyway. Pump jets maybe to large, if your supersprint is original it is probably fitted with 45s, more appropriate would be 35s. The larger jets cause too much fuel to be pumped in resulting in bogging down on take off. Also look at the idle jets, again if your car is original it's probably got 50f8, in mine I put 50f9 (larger) and it made a huge difference. Good luck Neil.