orangepeel61

Any updates on this issue? I've just collected my head from F J Payne, having had the exhaust valve guides replaced. They pointed out that the seals I had fitted we're too tight (double valve spring type from Burton Power) but they didn't suggest an alternative. I had the head off less than 2000 miles ago and the valve guides were fine then, I'm wondering if these seals have caused them to wear out so quickly! It seems what is required is a seal which allows enough oil passed to lubricate the guides but not so much that it causes smoking! Answers on a post card....... Neil.

Thank, in the meantime I'm stocking up on loctite!

One of the air filter mounting screws vibrated loose and got sucked in, I now have 2 bent valves and a mangled piston (although the bore looks ok) Anyone know where I can get a piston and a pair of valves for a 1700 Supersprint? Burton power have on there website a 1300 piston with deepend valve pockets but only for +110 thou (which I think would be fine after a rebore) but I need the "standard" +90 thou. Similar issue with the valves, I can get the right size shanks but not with the narrow necks. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks for the info Clive, I think my first move has to be to replace the front pads and then take it from there. Neil.

Sounds like Minex 1144 is a popular choice for the front but what about the rear if you've got drums? I don't want to upset the balance and the car seems ok but I think the pads and shoes are the originals which means they are 30 years old and overdue for replacement! The car is a 1987 Supersprint with drum brakes and di dion back end. Any thoughts?

Have sent you a message Neil.

Thanks guys I don’t think those are going to fit, it looks like they’re for Bilsteins and 1996 onwards but thanks anyway.

I’m looking to replace the rear shocks and springs on my Supersprint, it’s a 1987 with a de dion back end. The shocks aren’t the problem, there’s plenty of suppliers that specify height adjustable shocks for an early de dion car but I’m having trouble with the spec for the springs. The back end is too low and feels spongy and I am assuming this is merely because the springs are 29 years old and getting tired, so I think I just need a pair of new “standard” springs to replace them, so what should I go for? I only use the car on the road so I’m erring on the side of comfort rather than handling. Any recommendations for spring height and rate please?

Andy, I was nervous so I've just been to F J Payne & Sons, they seem friendly and helpful, they said they'd have no problems putting inserts in (they'd also never heard of heat treating cast iron!) So I've left the head with them..... we'll see! Thanks for the info Neil.

I’m pretty confident that the head is unmodified, the exhaust valves are 41mm like elie boone’s. The guy I was talking to was an old guy whose been doing motor engineering for years, I don’t doubt his ability (that’s why I went to him) but it’s looking like he hasn’t had much experience of the Supersprint head. Still curious as to what he was on about though. Thanks all for you help

Just taken the head off in order to fit new valve seat inserts for an unleaded conversion however the engineer said that there isn’t enough “meat” on the gas flowed head to fit inserts, the risk is that they would cut into the water jacket and he wasn’t prepared to do it. Trawling through all the posts on here I have found references to this being the case but the only solutions given are to replace the head. The engineer said that it wasn’t a problem and he could harden the existing seats with a heat treatment with what I think was a Potassium acetate (?) he was adamant that it would do a reasonable job and says he’s been doing it for years. I’m having trouble finding any information about this process on the internet, can’t help feeling that if it works then lots of people would be talking about it. Can anyone throw any light on this! For any cynics (I would be one) no, he’s not trying to rip me off with an “expensive” process, quite the opposite in fact, he genuinely seemed to be trying to save me some money.

It won’t help the scratching issue but when repairing poppers that have pulled off I put a 3mm washer under the rivet, seems to make them a bit more robust.

Ha, ha, already made that fatal mistake and tried to polish it,,,,, oh how naive was I.

Thanks everyone for your help, gained some useful info and hopefully a roll bar too. Neil (Rob's friend) P.S. Richard, no worries, I'm not ready for a wishbone conversion (in case Mike hasn't got back to you yet).