orangepeel61

I use one of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ring-Automotive-RTC2000-Cordless-Rechargeable/dp/B08ZSR8N5P/ref=asc_df_B08ZSR8N5P/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=500890667741&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2934755602137236549&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006622&hvtargid=pla-1298663975757&psc=1&th=1&psc=1 Easily handled topping up 3 bikes and 3 cars, pre set the pressure you want, press the button and leave it till it stops automatically when the pressure is reached. Very neat and compact, I carry it around in the bottle cage on my bike.

Rimmer bros is another source for parts: https://rimmerbros.com/Category--Triumph-Car-Parts--m-602?sitelink=triumphcarparts&gclid=Cj0KCQiAqbyNBhC2ARIsALDwAsCff1Yq44LkWd2lAESZnnTHqyPJEz79PKGUoNJODVnbH4dRngBYhawaApJaEALw_wcB

The chassis number will tell you if it's a long cockpit, have a look here: https://www.lotus7.club/guides/frequently-asked-questions/chassis-numbers-what-do-they-mean Good luck.

For the last 4 or 5 years my car has passed its mot with visual smoke test only. (1987 1700 Supersprint). Section 8.2.1.2. Of the MOT inspection manual states: For emissions purposes only you should treat the following as first used before 1 August 1975: kit cars and amateur-built vehicles first used before 1 August 1998 Wankel rotary-engined vehicles first used before 1 August 1987 Q plated vehicles https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/8-nuisance#section-8-2-1

Thanks for your comments Roger, the vacuum gauges I use have in line "taps" to dampen the pulsing, when open the gauges go mad! But closed down give a smooth reading I could use these in the pipes. For the cost of a couple of "T" pieces I think it's worth experimenting, I'll monitor the advance to insure it doesn't go too far and I take your point that it's my responsibility. Thanks, Neil.

Just been reading "loss of power on 1700 crossflow" post but didn't want to high Jack it. It says the guys at the rolling road fitted a vacuum advance, but I thought this wouldn't work on 40 dcoes? I'm struggling to find more info. I already have hoses connected to the vacuum take offs on the carbs which I use for balancing, is there anything to be gained by joining them all up and connecting to the distributor? Sounds a bit too easy!

Additional Just read HendrixsWhiteSt post and concur, I have recently had the same problem with the Aldon Ignitor!

I have experienced issues with the auxiliary venturi when I inserted one of them slightly out of line, on the road car ran fine at light throttle setting but if given the beans it would pull back like it was being strangled, ease off and it would be ok again, when stationary (no load) it would rev fine. So I would say that's worth checking.

If it's just to feed the coil then a ballast resistor or lead will do it as Wrightpayne suggests. For 12v systems that's usually about 1.5 ohms, for the 6v system you just need a ballast resistor of about the same value as the coil resistance then you'll get 6v across the coil and 6v across the resistor.

A single resistor would be very hit and miss, it would vary greatly depending on the current being draw. What about 12v to 6v converter/regulator, something like this should do the trick. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-12V-To-DC-6V-10A-60W-Step-Down-Power-Supply-Converter-Regulator-Module-UK/133402837558?hash=item1f0f6dc236:g:UgwAAOSw5OpesSwH

So have you got the water shields fitted on your car JonT? I would have thought they would have prevented grease flicking out as well as water splashing in.

A little but the photo makes it look worse than it is, with new bearings and fresh grease I think it'll be fine, this will be a more regular service exercise in the future.

Thanks for your help guys, Ian is right, it's a splash guard. If i cant get one I'll have to leave it as is, it's been ok for the last 34 years so maybe I'm worrying too much. I've ordered a wheel bearing kit from Rimmer Bros which includes the later rubber type seal, I read on another forum somewhere that it should be a direct replacement for the felt type.

I've discovered I'm missing a front hub inner bearing water shield on one side, no one seems to stock them anymore, it's a long shot but has anyone got one they don't need? (or point me to somewhere else I could try). Thanks, Neil.

I've discovered I'm missing a front hub inner bearing water shield on one side, no one seems to stock them anymore, it's a long shot but has anyone got one they don't need? (or point me to somewhere else I could try). Thanks, Neil.

BM sent.

Are items 3-5 handed? Or more to the point, if you had 2 can you mount them for driver and passenger?

That doesn't look right to me, the Mexico must be different, mine is like this (taken from Haynes escort manual) If its not clear: the marks are, from the bottom, DTC, 4, 8 and 12 Deg.

According to my wiring diagram (Oct 90) the white wire is the ignition feed. The white and black wires go to the tacho and the distributor pickup (points in my case) The diagram doesn't indicate which is +ve and -ve on the coil but I would say white should go to +ve as you have it. As for your distributor, when setting the points I take the distributor out. You need a timing strobe to reset the timing afterwards, also turn the engine over (manually) to TDC and ensure the rotor arm is pointing to number 1 ignition lead first. Dont move the engine with the distributor out and just put it back in the same orientation that it came out.

Thanks for that Richard I think you're right, the ignitor is my way forward then take it from there. Cheers, Neil.

Richard You said that you fitted the Ignitor and later the 3D mapping but suggested I just fit the basic ignitor and change the coil. I'm reading into this that you're not recommending the 3D mapping. Is this the case? Or in other words, did the 3D mapping give any further improvement? Regards Neil.

Thanks all for your input. The coil is a Lucas DLB 105 Sport, maybe that's a bit much for points, either way I'm sure contactless is the way to go. Lumenition looks like a reliable choice as is the Aldon ignitor, with the Aldon there's the prospect of upgrading to their Amethyst mappable system at a later date.

I recently binned the Lucas ignition system, the one that has the dodgy rotor arm with the metal skirt on my 1700 Supersprint. I replaced it with points which was a big improvement but after less than 1000 miles its playing up again, so I cleaned up the points and reset the gap and all good again. If the distributor wasn't buried under the carbs this wouldn't be so much of a problem but it's not ideal. I've been looking in the archives for advice for a "pointless" alternative but cant find any recent information, it looks like everyone else did this 20 years ago! The Aldon Ignitor seems to feature quite often but with mixed reviews ranging from good, fit and forget to issues of reliability and problems diagnosing them. So I suppose a good question is, if you've got one, is it still working? Is the ignitor II (2) that much better or any other alternative recommendations? I'm guessing the best option is to go full 3D etc but I dont really want to go that far, apart from the cost I'd like to keep originality and the car is only for road use. The car is fitted with the Bosch "leaded" distributor which is giving 12 deg btdc at tick over and 36 deg at 4500 rpm so I think this is all ok (running on super unleaded with hardened valve seats) Any thoughts appreciated.

Yes, wet sump. That had crossed my mind, would be the proof of the pudding!

Anyone any experience of changing the engine oil by extracting the old oil with a pump on a Crossflow? Lidl are selling this for £9.99 https://www.lidl.co.uk/en/p/car-essentials/ultimate-speed-oil-pump/p35314 If it works it could save some grovelling and a messy garage floor, question is would it get to the bottom of the sump? Presumably it would be via the dipstick tube.