ScottR400D

Right. Changed the whole switch and you do need the little tool, or a couple of small cable ties but the tool is better, to separate the switch element from the push button. 

Didn't make any difference so, as I'd already change the flasher unit, I contacted CC and they sent me a new pcb. I plugged that in temporarily and all seemed fine after a couple of runs out so I fitted it properly this afternoon.

Seems the whole system works with the switch, flasher unit and 3 latching relays on the pcb, one of which has been failing intermittently.

Odd thing is that you have to remove the heater to get at the crews that pass through the bulkhead and into captive nuts on the pcb plate. Makes it a much longer job than it could be. When I have a bit of time I'm going to change the arrangement and make it removable from inside the car.

Thanks Aerobod. So you're saying that the tool is definitely for separating the switch element from the push button and not for dismantling the switch element itself, as I was led to believe. I think you're right. 

I'll wait until I have a whole new assembly before I change the switch, that way I can fully understand how it all works before I remove the old one. 

I think I know what you mean. I can't do that in situ but can if I remove the switch. But doing that might disturb the switch element and name it seem OK. seems a very complicated mechanism for such a simple job. Form over function? 

May main concern at the moment is how I get the blue but off the rest of the switch. 

Thank for your quick response as usual JK! 

Hi all.

Well, I got a new push button switch from Caterham but haven't yet fitted it. As I reported earlier, It was all behaving as expected in the garage.

However, I just came home from a few weeks away and pressed the hazard switch. They all started flashing but wouldn't stop. Disconnected the battery and they stop, of course; reconnect the battery and they stay off but they start againon the switch and again won't stop on the switch. Battery disconnected again.

Now that seems to indicate, possibly, that the switch is faulty and isn't working when its pressed to turn off. Of course any other component in the circuit could be giving the same symptoms but at least I now have a repeatable symptom so I plan to swap the push button that Caterham sent me.

Caterham tell me that the switching element simply pulls off the back of the push button, no special tool is needed. I infer that the 'switch element dismantling tool' available from EAO is for dismantling the switch element further once it's off the push button.

Can anyone confirm this is correct or otherwise?

As, it seems to me, the fault is just as likely to be with the switch element itself, I think I'll buy one of those and the little tool kit too so at least I'll be ready to change that part if the the replacement of the push mechanism doesn't work.

I attach an image of the actual switch from the rear. It's the left one with 2 purple, 1 black and 1 green wire. The blue bit is the switch element. Its actually the upper switch in the image but for some reason uploading it rotates the image left 90.

I've got a 60/300Nm T/W and also a professional crimping tool for the hood/boot cover durable dot poppers. I found the basic 'hit it with a hammer' tool a bit inconsistent to say the least!

Brake bleeding kits are quite inexpensive IMO. No home should be without one!

I'm 15 miles west of Norwich. Have engine hoist with balance bar, all special sockets etc; everything needed really, including pneumatic riveter.

Happy to loan to club members. 

I agree but didn't think £43 was too bad. I remember a few years ago I got stopped down in France without any,l; even though the roads were fine I was escorted to a local supermarket store to buy some. I never used them but they wouldn't fit my current car. From memory they were more than £43!

I go down there most years so it's not too costly. 

That makes sense. I'll check it when I put it back on. I've just put the full screen back on for the next few weeks or until the next track day. 

Thanks guys. I did try Martyn's suggestion but the screen fits quite niceley as far as the ends and the hole alignment is concerned; there doesn't seem too much I can do there.

Thanks for that. I tried before but wasn't getting the main window where you choose the image.

Well, I fitted my new aeroscreen. No problems really, got the knee panels off easy enough, fitted the captive nut bars and bolted the aero on. 

As I've read with others, the screen, although fitting pretty well on the whole, has a gap underneath it on the RHS. If you look across the car it also sits a little higher on the RHS, at a slightly steeper angle. 

If you push the top down on the RHS, so that it matches the left, the gap underneath reduces but I cant see any way of making that shape change permanent.

Any ideas?

I'd post an image but cant figure out how to, it seems incredibly difficult?

By the way, though it's a .co.uk site it's a German company. My chains arrived in about 4 days though, free delivery, right on time.

I got a set for my 530D from Tyreleader.co.uk for £43 odd. My tyres (winters) are 225/55 17 but I think it's the same model of chain that you need.

The quality is fine and given that they'll quite possibly never be used I wouldn't want to pay the price of some of the better, easier fitted ones. These are Weissenfels Tecna M30/13. 

https://www.tyreleader.co.uk/snow-chain/weissenfels/tecna-m30/13-101

You'd be welcome to borrow mine as long as you don't want them March 5 - 12th when I'll be using them but it hardly seems worth it at that price.

No argument, I quite accept that 292 gives a stronger bond. It's just that the extra elasticity of the 291 is useful and it can be made to work, in my experience, though I did plan it carefully to maximise the bond area and quality.

To be honest, if I did it again I might well just source some high quality, black setscrews and avoid the bond altogether. I think button head sockets in black would be hardly noticeable on the carbon wings.

What I would avoid is what I understand Caterham do which is just plaster lots of sika type material all over the place, bit too permanent and inelegant for me!

Btw although sikaflex 292 has a higher bond strength than 291, it's less flexible. Either should do the job if properly applied. 

Btw although sikaflex 292 has a higher bond strength than 291, it's less flexible. Either should do the job if properly applied. 

I fitted the carbon wings to my R400 a year ago using big heads on the front of the stay, screws on the rear.

The big heads I used are 38x15mm with an M5 post. 3 in a line across the stay tube gives a surface area of over 1700mm2. If you examine the spec for sikaflex 291, it is an adhesive and sealant and has a bond strength of about 180g/mm2 so my arrangement theoretically gives a strength of over 300kg. (Disregarding the mechanical grip of the perforations).

As said prep is important. Key the surface of the big head and the wing and clean with an appropriate solvent. Leave plenty of time for a full cure.

Both bonds look fine almost a year and 1800 miles later. Unfortunately, using the post type heads you can't do both ends of the stay but I don't find the rear ones to be so noticeable. For me this is a better solution than cable ties etc. 

I had the same problem getting small quantities but a mate got them via his business as a sample.

Hi JK. It seems OK at the moment, though I haven't had the car out on the road. All behaving perfectly in the garage.

Once I have the spare switch, I'll give it a run and see if it does it again, then change the switch if it does.

Hi, Spiderlane.

It's the new style dash as in your first image.

I've been in touch with Caterham this morning, they think the switch and are sending me one today. They think it could possibly be the Dash Control Module, which is the big circuit board under the scuttle, above the heater panel but the switch is more likely.

I shall let everyone know how it goes, thanks for all the comments!

Thanks guys. I'm still trying to get to the bottom of why my hazards came on, on their own, the other day. Just wondered about the transponder.

I'm fairly clued up about the switches now but still can't figure out a failure mode that would cause that. I've looked closely at the diagram, aerobod but it's really a harness layout, not a wiring diagram and doesn't help (me anyway).

I haven't been out again but all seems well in the garage, connections all seem fine.

Out of interest, what happens if the immobiliser transponder is moved out of range when the car is running, moving along the road?

On the switch? But how would a loose relay cause them to come on?

Thanks Aerobod, that makes sense. 

One thing, what type of failure, of either the switch or the relay, would cause the hazards to come on randomly?

Just been to check and,with ign off, if you turn lights on the dials part sweep. Switching off they move some more; if you hold the switch as the lights go off they will sweep all way round then back to base.   

Didn't switch ignition on so not sure what they'd do but guess they'd be as you described. 

Seems this dial sweep with seemingly disconnected functions may be normal. Did you check what they do when you turn hazards on and off, with ign off slap ed?

OK. 

Yes, I have a multimeter and diagram. The relays appear tpo be on a panel just above the heater panel under the scuttle. Haven't had a close look at them yet.