NeilCSR

Has this created pressure problems in the cooling system which has 'burst' the radiator? After the first longer run post-Zircotech, noted flecks of pink coolant spread across the RHS of the engine bay. Header tank volume down slightly. Initially thought (top) hose or jubilee clip problem, but once nosecone off there was no seepage at either end of the top hose, but more coolant flecks on the fan housings (plenty) and plastic deflector behind. On the radiator there were pink dribbles from three places on the front of the core, and a couple of different places on the rear - visible once the fan housing was removed. Not big bursts, rather very small seepages, but enough to shed coolant that the fans blew back through the top hose hole (in the deflector) into the engine bay. Have since replaced the radiator with Paul M's spare (thanks Paul), and taken the original to a radiator specialist who can't find any problems/leaks under pressure test even at 25psi. Replacement rad seems OK so far although minor seepage from top hose union on a long run last weekend. Temp gauge always 100 or less, Oil temp always OK, fan cuts in properly, thermostat seems to be operating correctly. It would appear that there is greater pressure in the cooling system than before - the only change being the Zircotech coating to the headers which could add to heat within the engine, which should show up as an over-read on the temp gauge? Can't understand how a radiator can start to seep like this from several places (independently), unless a greater pressure has found weak points, and how this doesn't register on the temp gauge? Only possible link is the Zircotech treatment, which has made a positive difference to the heat build-up in the cockpit. One solution may be the use of waterless coolant - don't want to open that debate - appears more toxic than Brexit/Remain - (!!) but the obvious benefit would be lower system pressure against the downside of lower specific heat/heat removal. Any thoughts? Maybe I'm looking at this from completely the wrong direction? Neil

Thanks for the wave!

How much different is the positioning of the sensor? I've a CSR and have had this problem ever since I bought the car. I've done the earthing mod, which did make a small difference, but once exceeding a 'threshold' speed of about 73mph the speedo is all over the place and above 90(ish) it stops altogether and rests on zero. Prior to the earth mod it 'zero'd' at anything over the threshold speed. The sensor - ring gap is the quoted 1mm, the sensor operates perfectly up to the threshold speed so I don't believe the sensor itself is faulty. The other problem is that the odometer also packs up at high speed so recorded miles are incorrect. The sensor position on the CSR isn't quite central on the ring, slightly to one side. Is that what makes the difference?

Zircotech treatment on headers has made a big difference. First proper day out yesterday, couple of hundred miles covered with a representative range of driving (slow traffic to fast cruising with plenty in between). The tubes on the tunnel never got beyond warm (comfortably so). Previously, even on a cold day they would have been far too hot to touch when the car was warmed up properly. Neil

I've had the primaries Zircotec coated over the winter and only done one run since so far, but noticeably the metal tubes on the tunnel of the CSR only got warm. Engine run sufficiently to get the fans going, but whereas previously the tubes would be too hot to touch comfortably this time they kept the elbow warm on a chilly day. Encouraging early signs, longer runs in warmer conditions will be a better test. Neil

Great new addition only problem it shows up the nosecone defects - too many battles with stones etc..! One of next winter's projects. Now sprayed and fitted Beautifully made, many thanks Richard. Neil

I've been using PIAA Xtreme White Plus bulbs (blue tips) for some time now - fitted to the Seven and all other cars and bikes owned for the past ten years or so. Claim a 110W output and I wouldn't doubt that as they make a significant difference over standard bulbs. Not cheap (c£55 pair) but they do last. Put a set of four H7s in a 330 Cab BMW in '03 and all were still working fine when it was sold a year ago and 110k miles later. Switched over to a 50w HID system on my bike - BMW R1200GSA but reverted to the PIAAs as their light was more focused and useable (didn't dazzle every other road user and stuck the light on to the road area where it was needed), and much brighter than the standard bulb if not as bright as the HID. The PIAAs are an easier and cheaper option than switching to HID for a better output but I'm sure that there will be a viable LED alternative soon. Neil

Orange Seven with black full roll cage and carbon aeroscreen making all the right noises on the A4 to the West of Hungerford. First going East, then coming back West - had time to admire both passes as I was stuck in a bus stop tending to a friend's broken down Fiesta.........

Just about to ask the same question myself. Manual quotes 34Nm. but checking elsewhere for Duratec head/exhaust manifold torque setting and answers between 25Nm and 40Nm emerge. Guess that 34 is probably right, being in the middle of that spread. Neil

As a CSR owner this all sounds very familiar. Also on the CSR the metal tubes on the top of the transmission tunnel get very hot, very quickly, so resting an elbow or unclothed forearm can be a problem. Very interested in the Teknofibra solution as a way of applying to the footwell and transnmission tunnel. Couple of questions - can it be cut (without falling apart) - or does it have to be in pre-cut and sealed shapes? How easy is it to fix - glue - what sort? Or is it self adhesive? Or tied (wired?) somehow? Could either apply to the inside of the footwell/transmission tunnel (underneath the carpet), or to the outside (which would probably require engine removal). Anything to cut down on the heat. Also been looking at the thread re. wrapping primaries in the R400 which is another option, with two distinct schools of thought. Can understand that wrapping primaries will affect the thermal design of the installation, but that will surely be at the top edge of the 'performance envelope' which general road use, even quick use on a hot day will never ever get near. This is the most attractive solution as it cuts down the source of the heat in the engine bay (or a large part of it) which shielding doesn't offer. I'll follow the experience of those that have. Neil

It's all about the overlap of the door at the front of the rear wing, and particularly how much the internal frame overlaps. If it's only a bit, the frame bends and the back of the door goes in. The greater the overlap, the greater the aerodynamic force required to bend the frame, which increases with speed. Moving the windscreen frame back has definitely helped. The door is only still there because of the armrest catch! It was only this that stopped the door flying off. Think I will probably add a small turnbuckle catch to the front of the rear wing so that the rear flap of the door can be secured - but only twist to close when going solo. Passenger's shoulder and elbow on the armrest do a pretty good job otherwise. Adding this catch should cure the problem and hopefully not look too out of place

Update..... Good advice, Bob. Screen adjustment has helped - it still occurs but at approx 10mph higher. Loosened the screen, and set it as far back as possible, noting that there was about 1mm gap between scuttle rubber and previous dust line. Definitely made a diffference, see if it is enough after a while. Neil

Thanks for all the advice. Wasn't sure whether it was unique to my car or not, didn't happen on the two previous sevens which were S3s, but I can see that I'm not alone. Moving the windscreen as far back as possible makes a lot of sense as that will add to the overlap of the door's interior frame against the body where the door and body meet when closed, hence making it more difficult to 'pop'. Hadn't thought to check whether there was any possible movement in the frame position, but I did undo the frame a while back and might have inadvertantly created this problem when putting back. If that doesn't work I'll probably add a 'turnbuckle' catch at the rear edge of the door and use that when solo. Didn't want to make any addition like that but it should solve the problem, albeit in an unsatisfactory way. Could always just go slower.........!! Perhaps that's just a bit too much. Neil

When going at a 'healthly motorway speed', one-up, the passenger door blows in at the back, enough to undo the press stud on the restraining strip and is only held in place by the arm rest clip. Never noticed this on previous sevens I've owned, nor on this one before (owned now for about eighteen months) and never an issue when two-up as the passenger's shoulder stops this happening. Maybe wasn't cruising as quickly one-up for an extended period before so never noticed it. Have recently changed the diff from 3.92 to 3.38 (5-speed) which means that if I ever took it to 4k in 5th I would be doing 94.0, so motorway cruising miles are much easier (the change has made a massive positive difference to the car and all five gears get used - but that's another topic). Not sure if it's a result of more recent solo trips, easier higher cruising speed, or a problem with the door. Even removed the mirror which I though might be acting as a 'sail' and forcing the door in but that made no diifference. It's a concern as I don't want to lose the door, and don't also want to add an extra catch on the outside. Any thoughts? And is this pretty common? And if so, is there a mod suggested for the door to stop this happening? Neil

I've used this for many years on bikes. Absolutely wonderful, I believe it was developed originally for use on alloy in aircraft. Treated my BMWs - plenty of alloy - engine, final drive etc - as well as screwheads that weren't stainless. Also use on any connectors that are exposed. It comes out of the aerosol foamy but it will creep and spread. I've also got a bottle of the stuff as well and use that on exposed threads etc, applying judiciously with a small brush. Use it on the seven as well, exposed parts (front suspension joints particularly). Apply it a couple of times a year, depending on frequency of cleaning and bad weather usage. Much better than WD40 for corrosion prevention.

Yes we spoke...! Marlborough seems to be at the centre of spotted activity at present. Must be the local roads.....!!

At about 8.30 am, coming in to Marlborough from the East on the A4, very rare 6 - LJG 919(?). Looked in pretty good authentic condition.

CSR200, lives in Lockeridge just to the west of Marlborough. New to the site, last time a member was when 'Low Flying' was the only communication! Just looking through the 'Spotted' to see any other 7s in the area.