NeilCSR

is the glass itself available anywhere to replace? Rather than replace with complete new frame etc. (expensive), want ideally to replace the glass itself. When about to refit the screen assembly - having stored it 'safely(!)' somewhere whilst other work being done - found there is a large crack running across it. Also, assuming it is possible to get the glass itself, any advice re. fitting would be very helpful. Neil

What sort of 2k hardener is required for use with the CC touch-up paint? Then, where can I get hold of some easily, and what mix proportions?

Or Permatex: https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/ultra-series-gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-copper-maximum-temperature-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker/ Used on numerous occasions when needed and always excellent. Neil

Can drop a tester kit off tomorrow in town - let me know..... Neil

And spotting a beautiful blue R500......! Back now from a few days enjoying the delightful roads of mid / west Wales. Good to meet with you, maybe again on next year's Fish and Chip run. Neil

Twice in a week... must be local! Followed in from Fyfield to Marlborough High St. Almost identical to one I used to own many years ago.

Lunchtime today, going South through Hilcott towards Upavon.....

If any problems I can scan and send the diagram from my 1988 Assembly Guide. Neil

Yellow with two black stripes going west....! Just left home and not yet warmed up - stunning evening for a blat - perfect! Neil

Doing what I normally would on that stretch, but I was in the old Disco carrying a load of stone...... Stunning colour!

Couldn't agree more with the comments above - superbly organised and run, many thanks to James and the team for an excellent day..... Neil

My son's 335d now up on AutoTrader. Excellent condition, high spec, 19" wheels with full main dealer service history (last service in December at 54k). MOT until June He's had it since Sept '16 but selling now as he's offshore (superyacht officer) and not going to be based in any near European port for more than a week or so for the next year. Taking up space on my drive. Extremely quick.... View Wiltshire (near Marlborough)

Jim, Thanks, good advice. I'll save that possible spend. Checked out the units and they are only LHD if purchased anywhere else other than Caterham, so their units are an expensive option and if there isn't a significant difference then it doesn't make much sense. Neil

Thanks for the lead.... After a bit more research they are made by Paaschburg & Wunderlich, big German aftermarket bike parts supplier under the 'Highsider' brand. I've contacted them to see if they supply in LHD pattern and I'll also find out whether they will fit a standard (chrome) rim/shell. If so a big saving on CC. I'd prefer to go with an integrated unit rather than replacement bulb for reasons of beam pattern. Ran HID replacement bulbs on bikes for years, great light but it went everywhere and dazzled every other road user unless set down so far which meant that whilst there was great illumination immediately in front the distance was in the dark, even on main beam, so had to rely on pencil beam spots for proper out of town riding.

Has anyone had experience of the Caterham LED headlamp units and been able to compare with the normal candles? These beam units should be much better than replacement LED bulbs as the pattern should be precise and focused in the right areas. Having experienced properly engineered LED lights in two other cars which are a revelation, and before investing a small fortune in the Caterham units wanted to get some feedback first. Neil

Hi Austin, Memory diminishing with age.....! On the bike so took more notice of the car and it's condition! Looked great. Neil

The '65 plate was travelling towards Blandford, just overtaking a group of cars and I was on a bike in the opposite direction on the way to Dorchester. Plenty of room.....! Green 'N' plate 21, looking in pretty smart just turning out of the small cul-de-sac where CW BMW Motorrad dealer is in the middle of Dorchester. Neil

Many thanks, that's really helpful. Neil

Hi Andrew, Thanks for pointing this out. One question - NPN or PNP? I'm ignorant about the difference between the two, other than there will be a difference and only one sort will work. The link goes to NPN so I'm assuming that's the one? Having the sensor with naked leads will allow a protective sheath to be added before wiring up the connector as the wire is very exposed in quite a 'wild' area. Neil

If it's a wheel sensor there are other possibly critical factors that influence the speedo. I put a new sensor in but that made little difference. Positioning, rather than gap is vital. On mine the hole in the brake caliper meant that the sensor was only half-covering the serrated wheel. Created a bracket out of sturdy stainless sheet that lined the sensor up correctly, and gapped it to 1mm. Also did the earth mod. All this helped and meant that the speedo still worked up to about 100 (instead of 60 or so). Then took it all apart again, repositioned and gapped it, but also properly cleaned the serrated wheel, brushed off all corrosion and coated the tops with a bit of POR15. Still get problems, but well into three figures. Turning the wheel to see if the sensor lights is fine to see if it works at all, but it's the capacity to operate at speed (under load) which is the issue. As Geoff says 'it's a cheap pice of s**t' and I'd guess that some work OK, others work for a while, and some hardly at all. Buy ten, maybe three or four will work forever, the rest will start to show signs of failure at some point. Neil

There should be a black earth lead which feeds that whole area and leads back to a central earth at the wiper motor. Neil

Tried with the adhesive plate but I gave up after two ham-fisted attempts. Also realised that it looked pretty dire over the top of the yellow splaying of the stripe (traditional Yellow on BRG colour scheme). Took a different direction and ordered, just received and now fitted a 3/4 show plate (probably illegal). But it looks perfect. Mounted on dual tab velcro (with the standard full-size version kept in the boot if ever stopped). Quick service from 'pimp my plate', who are based in British Columbia on the other side of the world. Ordered on the evening of 3rd, delivered first thing this morning. Excellent quality, even with 'Caterham' along the lower edge. Not what I thought I wanted, but actually what the car needed. Neil

Don't know whether he's still there but try Paul Gilchrist at Caterham Crawley. He is/was aftersales support and was very helpful (in contrast to the sales guys). If he is I'm sure that he can help. e-mail (is/was): Paul.gilchrist@caterham.com Neil

Finally, I fitted air scoops to the footwells, and that really helps, the negative cockpit pressure ensures a good blast of cooling air on your feet. Those scoops take ambient air from outside and push it into the footwells? No connection to the engine bay? Don't think that Mike Biddle's post was about the engine bay, although that is the obvious source of the heat. His issue was footwell temp, which is the reason for fitting the scoops. A pretty stunning vehicle with a unique badge:

Don't know the exact logical explanation but in my experience coating the headers did make the engine run cooler - or maybe this is a function of where the sensor is in the system? Even runs cooler than before when using Evans waterless, which should have the opposite effect as the heat absorbing capacity of the glycol mix is less than that of water (70% or so?). That's experience. Neil