Gloucestershire AR
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That makes sense, thanks Jonathan. Using ali nuts on steel bolts I guess could give rise to different expansion rates? As a long time Le Mans attendee, I'm reminded of all the three wheeled cars I've seen over the years after the (ali) nut had departed from the (steel) hub. Most of the ali nuts on ebay seem to come from China and certainly look smart but not sure that's what should drive my decision here... Andy
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Can't find anything previous on this using search but what's the current thinking about lightweight wheel nuts? I run Caterham 8 spoke anthracites (Ford fitting but live axled car) and fancy some nice aluminium ones. Is that a good idea? Currently have big heavy closed top chrome thingies. The locking wheel nuts are already open top and non-chrome. Thanks all. Andy
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Any pics of these please? May be interested... Andy -
My coil pack (crossflow, Omex ECU system) mounts on a bracket attached to the scuttle area. It's a scrappy bit of bent ali I made myself and it's time to improve it. What I need are two right angle brackets roughly 30mm x 100mm by perhaps 30mm (not a crucial figure). I can find various steel ones but have had no luck finding a nice ali or carbon fibre version. Needs to be reasonably sturdy to stop the col pack vibrating too much. Any ideas? Thanks. Andy
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Book says 24 and 22 thou but that sounds higher than I recall. Anyone know what the correct valve clearances are (Ford crossflow engine). Thanks. Andy
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Not sure - but ask Arch. They're very helpful and it should avoid you taking off too much or too little (whatever you remove only has to go back later!). Hope you get it sorted soon. Andy
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Coincidentally - just taken my head off to do the same thing and found it needed new inlet valves and guides too. Incidentally, my head uses VW valve stem seals. Reckoned to be better than the Ford ones. Also found the exhaust valves (no stem seals needed on those) needed a bit of a clean up, as did the pistons and valve seats so another reason to bite the bullet and remove the head! Ajusa head gasket reckoned to be a good choice and a lot less expensive than some. Burtons were very good and had everything in stock, including advice. Good luck! Andy
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My old seat bases were starting to come apart at the edges so have now bought two new plastic bases from Oxted (good folk - very helpful). All I have to do is remove the fabric and foam from the old bases and attach to the new. Simples. Anyone done it? And any tips on what/what not to do? Andy
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All done and horrible (really horrible - it sounded very serious) creaking noise has gone. I had half expected the roll bar itself would be damaged but no. Greased the balls, loctited them on (hand tightened) and put some rubber/plastic lubricant on the plastic mountings. Hopefuly good now for lots more miles. Thanks all. Andy
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Quick question... the front anti-roll bar has one fixed side and one adjustable blade (as you turn the blade the stiffness is effectively increased). Which side would you mount the adjustable side - driver (offside) or passenger (nearside)? Previously I had it on the NS but am now thinking the OS would be better. Any suggestions which is 'right'? Thanks. Andy
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Thanks SM25T. New balls and dust covers arrived from Caterham today (ordered on Sunday so a good turnround ). Ordered a couple of spares too and will replace both ball ends - it looks to make sense to loctite them on too, just in case. Thanks and thanks to Caterham spares too. Andy
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Follow-up question. I'd previously greased up the housing where the ball end sits. Is this necessary/a good thing/a bad thing? If grease is bad, is anything else recommended? Also what about the nylon bushes that mount the bar horizontally - should they be greased? Thanks. Andy
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Er... think I've just answered my own question. Both are available from Caterham online so will get some from there (and some spares). Andy
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The 7 had been making a horrible knocking noises from the front suspension and I narrowed it down to the Frestyle adjustable front anti roll bar. Taking the thing apart, one of the plastic balls has split in half so I need to get: - a replacement plastic ball end. This screws onto the end of the anti roll bar and slots into the housing on the top wishbone - new rubber gaiters (the old one are starting to perish). Anyone know where these might be obtainable from? Thanks. Andy
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I cut a slot in the nosecone (scary...) then araldited them to the inside of the nosecone. Looks neatest but you need to measure and cut very carefully. Andy
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Ah yes, 3 and 4 does suggest that might be the case. Could a simple balance problem cause that too? Hopefuly you can buy a pair of replacement pistons (if not, at least you'll have two spares!). Seems odd though that one carb would be running lean - I would have thought that would have shown up on the RR previously. At least we can buy you a beer tomorrow Kingsley... Andy
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Do you know what pistons are there Kingsley? When I ran standard pistons I had a problem with the land (the metal between the piston rings) breaking up and was told that was a common problem. The engine started smoking very heavily on a track day and (from memory) more than one piston was affected too. The (expensive) solution was to move to forged pistons which are a better design, stronger and lighter. Hopefully, the damage will not be as bad as it could be. Fingers crossed. Andy
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Thanks Roger
