Gloucestershire AR

...oh and I always try to carry racing fireproof gloves in the car (7 and tintop too). Gives some protection and means you can touch hot things with a few seconds of protection. Not foolproof but burns to hands can be tricky to mend and, unless you are Django Reinhardt, playing guitar with burned hands is not so good. Andy

Not sure if it's been mentioned but a kill switch on the car is useful too. It kills all electrical circuits and so can help stop a fire being fed. Checking to see all electrics are off was the first thing I was taught as a fire marshal back in the 70s. Easy to overlook in the heat (sorry) of the moment. Andy

Looks very good. I've not proofread it (we do this professionally so I can't resist usually!) but one minor spot - should be let's (short for 'let us') not lets in the headings please. Can't wait to read the whole thing. Well done CC. Andy

Yes, exhaust gaskets are a pain. I found the 'competition' gaskets to be useless for cylinders 2 and 3 but use a set from Vulcan Engineering. They're quite thick but seem to work OK. Just more expensive! Anyone else found a good exhaust manifold gasket set? Maybe the heavy exhaust system and vibrating engine just kill anything that's not up to the job? Andy

...and a couple of other factors why crossflows are cool: - one features at the very start on the full version of Chris Rea's Auberge track. OK it won't start, but that's not the point! - John Simister's book 'Legenday car engines - Inner secrets of the world's 20 best', features the crossflow (Ford Kent). The only other 7 engine featured in the book is the A series BMC engine. - the engine made Formula Ford one of the greatest single seater formulas. Even when the Zetec took over, many of those cars were subsequently converted to run a Kent instead. - FORGET EVERYTHING ELSE AND JUST LISTEN TO ONE BEING DRIVEN HARD!! (Sorry, had to shout to be heard over the sound!). Andy

30-35mpg from my crossflow, which is now fuel injected (Omex ECU/Jenvey TBs). That compares to low 20s when on carbs. It's a 4 speed box so she screams a bit on motorways but 70-80 is fine - above that (outside the UK of course) you start to worry about engine life etc etc. The crossflow is easy to work on, tuneable and sounds stonkingly marvellous. Only an original Twincam arguably sounds better IMHO. A Duratec or Zetec is probably more reliable, long lasting and more powerful but, well, it's not the same is it! Certainly wouldn't knock those engines but over time, the crossflow may prove to be the best investment. Depending on spec, there are certain things it's worth doing (smaller pulley, maybe change the alternator and fit forged pistons if you can afford them). When I win the Lottery will add steel crank, rods and flywheel, ali head, new exhaust system and a few other bits and pieces (already have a good exhaust, JKent 244 cam, improved cooling, Duratec alternator and dry sump). Would I recommend a crossflow? Yes - you can spend less and get better performance elsewhere but you'll always find someone whose car is faster and a good crossflow is torquey, quick enough and great to tinker with. Go for it! Andy

I'm after a spare rubber mat for the passenger footwell. The old one was cut down to fit round an extinguisher and I've now replaced that with a smaller one so need to go back to the full mat. Anyone have one they'd care to part with for a suitable sum? Thanks. Andy

Mistake in the title there old chap - you cannot upgrade from a crossflow, but you can make a change from a crossflow. ;-) On a more serious note, maybe Raceline? (raceline.co.uk). Peter McEwen built my crossflow so I'm maybe biased but they have done a lot of excellent work on 7s over the years and now produce very high quality Duratec stuff. Relatively near to you too? Burtons are Ford gurus too but not sure how much they would have that is 7 specific. Good luck in your downgrade Andy

Work out when she was last in the car Terry, then tell her that one of your club colleagues asked you who was the sexy lady with you in the car and did your wife know? Or just tell her you quite understand that she's too old to go i the 7 now... Or perhaps not! Andy

Excellent - thanks Giles. Hadn't seen that before but it explains it much better! The 'finished' car in the pic was subsequently stripped and I'm not sure it was ever road tested. A pity! Andy

Not sure how they got to the design. Axon uses a technique for recycling carbon fibre (often from old US jet planes) that is strong but not quite as strong as CF using 'new' carbon fibre matting AIUI. They produce square tubes so I assume they simply took those and made them fit an existing pattern. I think the aim was to see if it was possible and relatively cheap and easy rather than to produce the best possible design. In effect, if a chassis could be produced a bit like a spaceframe in that you cut off lengths of tube then weld (glue) them all together, you end up with a relatively low tech easy to manufacture product that suits a small volume car maker. In terms of design Dr Steve Cousins, who runs Axon, is ex Cranfield and I know their eco 7 had input from a professor of aero at Cranfield too so I'm pretty certain they would have done the sums pretty well before building the car. I see from Axon's website that they're now working with Westfield on a rotary engined car with carbon bits so that should be interesting. It's a pity their relationship with Caterham didn't/hasn't yet(?) developed further though. Andy

Bottom pic at http://www.axonautomotive.com/gallery.html shows the bare chassis. Andy

Axon built a prototype - all carbon chassis as well as panels. Didn't weight any less but was/is immensely strong. The car was built up for PR purposes but don't think it ever ran. Andy

Bought mine from Maplins and secured with a tie wrap if you get short again. Useful to have spares as mic covers can get very nasty and unhygienic if not cleaned regularly! Andy

Yes please Hands Andy. Andy

The shift is worth spending time setting up for the best gearchange too. If it feels sloppy, it may need new plastic bushes (Caterham or Redline can supply) - not expensive and a bit fiddly to fit (and you need to remove the transmission tunnel cover and carpet first, as you will to check the reverse gear stop. If it's been tightened down too much that could explain the stiff gearchange and may mask those worn bushes too. Worth checking all the nuts and bolts while the transmission tunnel cover is off too. To get the ultimate gearchange you can add a couple of long bolts and three nuts each to more rigidly link the two parallel bars that run from the 'box to the remote gearlever. That way you can get everything nice and parallel. It's just possible the car may have been fitted with a short shift kit - tried it on my car years ago and, though the throw was delighfully short, the change was very stiff and 'unnatural' and I quickly reverted back to original spec. You'll quickly get used to there being no natural spring towards 3/4 - but do beware if you let anyone else drive the car! Enjoy the car - great spec and you'll have lots of fun. Andy

The other option is to go for an external kill switch, which is mandatory for some forms of motorsport. Caterham do a kit and it fits into the triangle at the bottom of the windscreen on the driver's side. The big red 'key' is simply removed after switching off the engine. Kills all electrics, which can help avoid a fire and makes the car a bit harder to nick. Andy

I think mine uses VW seals. Not sure which VW though! They're light blue in colour if that helps... Got them from F J Payne & Son of Eynsham, Oxon, when they fitted new inlet guides for me last year. Andy

Didn't know that existed but just ordered 1 metre x 25mm wide for £4.99 delivered from eBay. Thanks Jonathan! Andy

Yes please! Thought I'd try at the Kit Car Show but would be useful to know who you use anyway. Thanks Mankee. Andy

Both Ian! I use a metallic strip thingy I think is designed for cyclists. It wraps round the bar and is reflective and i about an inch wide. You could use tape instead (again bicycle shops I think). Think you only need a couple of strips as you're looking to give a visual indication that there's something there rather than showing the whole width of the car or the rollbar if that makes sense. Andy

Thanks Mankee. Andy

Couple of random thoughts: - Have recently moved away from the newer clear rear indicators with orange bulbs due to complaints people couldn't see them. - On longer trips I personally use earplugs plus noise cancelling headphones (if on my own) or a headphones based intercom (if with passenger). - Fluorescent tape on top of the rollbar can help people see you (as does driving a bright red car with checquered black and white front wings...). - My car runs a rear Freestyle rear diffuser. I like the look, believe it makes a difference (others may disagree...) and it helps protect the underside of the fuel tank too. Previously I glassfibred the old steel tank - a messy job but it used to be recommended by the MSA and it proved its worth when the tank was made banana shaped after a high speed impact, and didn't leak. - Would second what others have said about driving tuition. Improving observation, anticipation and smoothness all make sense. Tuition can also help attitude - looking to drive more professionally and defensively and less aggressively (we all deny it; we all do it...). Most people are very pleased to see a 7 so a friendly wave as you overtake is always welcomed, while if someone wants to show you they are a faster/better driver than you or that their car/bike is faster - let them. A skid course is useful - at some time you will lose the back of the car (especially in the wet) or lock up under braking - neither are an issue if you are well practiced at recognising them, knowing what caused them and then take the appropriate action smoothly and without panicking. IMHO a good 7er can drive fast but never hurries, is scrupulously polite to other road users (knight of the road and all that) and enjoys their car and their driving - as should their passengers. And yup, I'm sure I'm as bad as anyone else at keeping to that! Enjoy! Andy

Anyone know which brake pads I need? Planning to switch from Greenstuff to Mintex 1144s. I think they're the same size as Lotus Europa and that the Mintex code is MDB 1890 M, but I have an old HiSpec catalogue which says MGB 1890M. Are they the same/different/a typo? Also think I need to cut a bit off the pads to make them fit if I remember correctly. Anyone? Thanks. Andy

Not an expert but 'not necessarily'. My understanding, in a non-technical way (always dangerous...), is that standard brake pads are quite 'soft'. Initially they grip very well - this gives drivers of all abilities the best braking for emergencies. The typical emergency will be a one-off 25 to 0 mph stop or slowing down on a motorway when following too close, playing with the radio and realising the car in front is braking hard... Most modern cars are fitted with ABS but most motorists never brake hard enough to activate it. However, drive on a race track or up and down mountain passes and these pads will overheat, leading to less braking effect and, ultimately, brake failure. Competition pads are 'harder' - that is their initial grip may actually be a bit lower but as they (very quickly) heat up, so their efficiency improves. They are less likely to overheat and will give you very good braking from higher speeds. So, 1144s on the back may actually result in less initial lock-up but better braking overall. But it all depends... I'm sure an expert will be along in a minute and explain why that is not/may not be the case! Andy