Albert Donaldson

Thanks for the advice, mind now at rest.

Looking for a caterham dry sump pan for k-series. CCpart out of stock. 2nd hand reasonable condition no problem. Thanks for looking Albert. no longer required...

Thanks Geoff.

Can anyone tell me what the two small pieces of right angle shaped metal do under the cover of the gearbox? Are they just to deflect oil spray back onto the gears? Would there be any harm in not having them? On the left is another cover which did not have the (I don't know the correct name) recepticle for the half moon, I modified to accept one from another cover, anyone see any issue with this? Rgds Albert

removed

Intersested in LSD 40/90 with 5lbs preload, parts only.

So if I understand the above correctly a reasonable set up for a caterham used 25/75 road/track would be 40/90 with minimum preload 5?lbs.

I have one available.

thanks for the offer Matt, but just found a suitable box last week.

Good evening, I feel your pain. Its extremely tight to get the alternator out. On mine I have to remove the exhaust primaries first. then remove both the top and bottom alternator securing bolt to allow the belt to be removed (there is not enough adjustment to allow first adjusting to the slackest position then removing). It becomes awkward after this. Slide the alternator back out of the upper mount and rotate up to allow clearance of the engine mount. 90 % of the positions you end up in allow no further movement but persevere Then bring it towards the rear of the car, turn 90 degrees and drop down in front of passenger footwell to remove from under the car. The first time I did this it took 2 hrs to get out (I did it again last night in prep for engine removal and it took 10 mins). If necessary loosen the passenger side engine mount and jack under the sump to gain some space, or remove the bracket from the block completely. Its extremely awkward but it will come. I had the same symptoms as you. It was cured by fitting a new rectifier and turning the rear of the alternator 120 degrees as the heat from primary one had melted it. http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Alternator see above how to disassemble and its obvious how to turn the rear to put the rectifier out of the way of heat. Good luck Albert

Excuse my ignorance. Could you please expand on or explain what effects the differing ramp angles and preload have. I am considering lsd but seem to be baffled by choice at the moment. thanks, Albert

There is one for sale on Caterham and Lotus 7 owners group on facebook....NTDWM

Is it from a sigma or rover?

Thanks Jonathan, should know better than to try anything online, sound advice to do the work offline then upload. Albert.

Seem to have a problem with blog. Spend time typing all in, add photos all goes fine until it freezes on the fifth photo. If I press save then I get a screen with 503 error. When I return to blog on my profile the item I was working on is gone. As I say frustrating after the second time.

Gentlemen, Thank-you very much for the efforts you have made to make this accessable, I can now compare my ham fisted efforts with what should have been. Much appreciated Albert.

If one of these videos comes to light I would love to view it in exchange for preserving it on DVD. As an aside when I searched the interweb for the name of the gentleman who made the video in the hope of finding some more info I stumbled accros a "knitting circle" website that discussed this video and classes quite a lot with a lot of references to secret squirrels. Must have been strange times....

Well got the bravery together*woohoo* and just started, check out my blog if interested for progress....

After buying a spare head and looking at it in the garage for 3 months it was finally time to start work. The head came fitted with springs and valves but no cams/followers. So first job was to remove them. This was surprisingly easy. this was done one month ago but still not enough bravery to start the porting. Working abroad, away from the caterham, for a month at a time gives me the chance to order parts to fit for when I arrive back home for my month off. Its sometimes dangerous, its as if buying bits for the car gives me a connection to it when I'm away. Anyway I invested in a set of followers, uprated springs and caps, slightly bigger inlet and exhaust valves along with a manual timing belt adjuster. Other parts that were accumulated were mostly tooling- a set of newway valve seat cutters, some burrs for the drill and some parts for the dremel. Courage was still not at a high enough level to start. During some slack time at work I read some excellent books that helped with the fear-How to build modify and power tune cylinder heads by Peter Burgess and David Gollan and David Vizard's How to port and flow test. I found the first of the two more relevant to what I was hoping to achieve. There were also many websites visited the three most useful were : http://www.dvapower.com/ http://crazyspitfire.blogspot.nl/2007/04/porting-cleaning-up-head-ports-head.html http://arc.seloc.org/viewthread.php?tid=191709&page=1#pid3608215 Thank-you to the authors of these sites and posts for the inspiration. If they hadn't of existed I wouldn't have been standing today with drill in hand. I now had the parts, the inspiration, enough knowledge to be dangerous and most importantly the courage to start. So I did. Tentatively. I thought I'd start with the waterways, to get a feel for the tools and the base material. Went well until one slip with the dremel- gouge on face of head the result. Courage started ebbing again. Had a think- conclusion no big deal its got to be skimmed anyway after the porting's done. Decided to skim down some of the valves I got with the head to use as blanks. Drill in vice, valve in drill and angle grinder in hand. Remarkably fast, and because they were surplus to requirements anyway, thoroughly fear free. So started again, this time with precautions in place-duct tape. It went reasonably well with the combustion chamber, well it went faster than anticipated and was not so nerve racking as envisaged. 5mm ball type cutter in drill extension seemed to work best for me for stock removal. The flatting with 80 grit spira band was ok but not as smooth as I expected and I struggled to reach everywhere I wanted to. Must get some 120 grit tomorrow and some more of the same for the dremel as well. All this first 3 hours of work was leaving me feeling satisfied and confident, so after lunch I decided to get brave and tackle one of the inserts. This was the part that had been causing me the most anxiety. I cut down a valve to my chosen id for the insert to use as a drift, picked up the big ball cutter and started. Round and round and round and round again. Stop, try drift and repeat until drift just passes. for all the concern I'd had about this step it was actually the step that the result actually looked like something I'd seen on the various sources mentioned above. Then it was time for a glass of plonk and off to bed. Tomorrow brings cutting down a valve guide and port shaping of one inlet port I hope. The rest of the week will be consumed by the other 15, its going to be a long job.

Good morning All, After reading dva web page and being smitten by the lure of extra power I went ahead and purchased and fitted a K04 kit to my EU3 1600(1320 cams) +forged pistons. At the moment its running wideband in adaptive mode and I am pleased with the results so far, but am looking for a little more. I have a spare new standard head casting, piper springs and caps, 29mm inlets and 26mm exhaust valves, along with guides sitting in my garage and my thought process is running like this instead of having the present set up optimised now on the rolling road to do a bit of self porting on the head and later have the set up on the rolling road. After looking at the DVA website (thanks for the inspiring resource) along with some good postings on SELOC I have spent the last months slowly gathering the tools I think I will need. I am more interested in doing this for self satisfaction/learning experience than any money saving and hoping to gain some power, however I am finding that I lack the courage to start because of a couple of unanswered questions in my mind. So if anyone can answer I would be grateful. I wish to change to manual tensioner, anything to watch out for when drilling and tapping hole? I also believe I need to widen valve seat insert/throat-I have a set of neway cutters for the actual seat but I am struggling to see how to do a reasonably accurate job of increasing the inside diameter of the seat by hand-any tips on this appreciated. If anybody has done this themselves I would be interested to hear of the problems encountered and how they were resolved. Thank-you Albert

Hello all, I've been searching for a 2nd hand six speed gearbox for my k-series for quite a while, without joy. I would like to ask about interchangability of the various caterham 6 speeds. My main question hinges around what I would have to do to make a six speed from a duratec/sigma/csr fit a k-series. Is it as simple as swapping input shaft,(and if so are they available) or is there more involved? The reason behind the question is that I sometimes see 6 speeds for sale but very rarely from a k-series. Appreciate any guidance on this.

Long shot, I know, looking for 6speed caterham gearbox for k series. Anyone know where I can source 2nd hand