Albert Donaldson

If all above fall through please contact me antonio, I'm interested... Rgds Albert

Running TTV 3.2kg flywheel on a 1600 K with helix performance clutch happy with the results. Albert.

The r500 pulley is at the crank, I couldn't measure the difference between the r500 alternator pulley and standard so didn't change: its this one: Crankshaft Pulley - R500 [Crankshaft Pulley - R500] SKU: 73405 Crankshaft Pulley - R500 Price: £57.60 inc. VAT £48.00 ex. VAT Availability: Currently out of stock 0 in stock Notify me when available Unfortunately as you see out of stock. I was told that alternator rpm should not exceed 17000rpm, higher revving K's with standard pulley are exceeding this. Rgds Albert.

After changing the regulator on my bosch alternator 3 times due to it giving up on a 1600K with rev limit at 7600rpm, finally found that rpm was killing them with standard crank pulley regulator pack was turned to bottom to avoid heat which at first I thought it was. Changed to R500 pulley and problems dissappeared, now run a rimmer bros aftermarket one without issues. Alternator Assembly - 65 Amp - New - Aftermarket Part No.: YLE101520P - See more at: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-YLE101520P#sthash.r8zGGOpd.dpuf 125 UKP. Hope this helps... Albert

The feedback I was looking for would be for a comparison to others with a similar spec, just trying to judge if the self done head porting is adding anything over a standard head or indeed making it worse than expected. Finding it hard to judge as I didn't do power run before changing head. Piper upgraded springs and caps, hence the decision to go to 8000 as at 7450 we were seeing 161hp and could see there was more to come. I don't really want to go higher with hydraulic lifters. Cheers

Hi Finlay interested (this is becoming a habit- why not send me your whole list of stuff you may want to get rid of?) any fronts to match? Best regards Albert

A brief summary: 1600 k-series, forged pistons 1320 piper cams inlet and exhaust set as per dva website 98 octane fuel dry sump jenvey dth throttle bodies lightweight flywheel New standard head ported in my garage with qed 26.4mm exhaust and 29mm inlet valves on standard seats that have been (conservatively) modified as per dva website. Head skimmed by 0.10mm Emerald ems Any thoughts on this graph produced on RR after optimising ignition and fuelling? NB torque is in Nm-1 not lbft-1 I appreciate any input Albert.

Thanks Bill appreciate but I have one actually two, the one that was fitted before the dry sump install appears exactly the same! I ended up moving the submarine over to the chassis rail as the tank I have is an ex duratec one and blocks the routing in the pics. Question about cam cover breathers: I can see in the archives there are some differing philosophies on this one (sealed and not sealed) and am trying to decide the best way to procede. I am running jenveys with airbox. At the moment I have the old apollo hole blanked off and the rear 2mm breather blanked. The front large breather goes to my external dry sump tank via a hose. The tank has 4 outlets, bottom goes to front of sump to feed internal oil pump. Top large goes to scavenge pump discharge. That leaves two at the top one to breather and one to catch tank. This seems to make sense to me. However on starting the engine and removing the oil filler cap on the cam cover I notice it is venting quite a lot of air/gas. Is this breather set up correct and is it to be expected to have this positive air pressure in the cam cover, I expected it to suck not blow? The external pump seems to be pumping into the external oil tank ok albeit in short spaced slugs at idle-is this behaviour normal? Thoughts appreciated Albert

Thanks for taking the effort guys, the pictures really help. Albert

Does anyone have a photo of the purple pump installation on a K-series. I'm struggling a bit with the routing of the radiator bottom hose and the installation of the old type manual adjust tensioner. Thanks Albert

I´ve just removed mine this am. If still looking for one pm me. Albert.

Thanks for the reply Oily, that puts my mind at rest. Don´t want to move pistons right now but heres a clearer picture.

Can anyone identify these pistons? When I bought the car it was advertised as being 2007 ex-academy and roadsports with forged pistons.Next question, I know the engines been running a bit rich, whats the best way to clean the crud of the tops of the pistons? Scrape and hoover?? last question: It appears to me that there is an uneven gap around the piston and the bore and in fact I can just barely move the piston from top top bottom with my finger. Compression test before taking the head off was ok at +/-160psi per cylinder and engine was running strong but rich- is this gap/movement normal or should I consider some further remedial work/tests-the sump is coming off anyway at he moment. Thanks Albert

The cover above is what I have but under the orange breather is a right angle ie it doesn't go straight down into the box, I use this for filling but cant check level through it. I was thinking of drilling and tapping a hole in the front rhs when viewed from behind as per mankees box above. The allen plug on the side is a one hour event to get to and utilise to check level and involves a lot of cursing. Thanks for the replies. Albert.

Presently running a trans-x straight cut gearbox fitted with quaife top cover. Has anybody ever modified the top cover to add a dip stick? Access to the fill level plug is almost impossible and as the gearbox seems to sweat slightly I would like a quick method of checking the oil level and am contemplating making a dipstick. Any ideas welcome. Albert

Can you tell me if these will fit a metric chassis S3 please. Albert

Presently running forged pistons, jenveys, emerald and uprated valve springs and caps, piper 1320s on my 1600 K series with a rev limit of 7600rpm. Over the last months I have built up and ported a standard head with larger valves on the standard seats but not yet fitted. Before I fit it I am thinking of changing cams to BP285H, will this give a noticable increase in power over 1320 or is it marginal? Are there any interference issues with BP285H, larger valves and forged pistons on a 1600K? About the rev limit with hydralic followers I hear conflicting stories ranging from an upper limit of 7200-8000rpm, would anybody care to comment with their own experiences? Regards Albert

If 2GBR not interested I am, let me know if still available.

Good morning, After porting K-series head and cutting new valve seats I am struggling to get a reasonable seal between valve/seat. I have 2 valves out of the 16 that will hold a column of WD40, the rest leak off at varying rates, I can see a sliver of light between valve and seat. I am wondering how to correct. I am thinking that maybe the seats are too wide and considering increasing the inside diameter and then relapping, or perhaps I just need to lap some more. Advice appreciated. Albert.

Quick question, is this engine solid tappet or hydraulic?

I had the almost same issue, the threaded boss started turning in the seat and my solution was to inject chemical metal and then tap out, still holding 1 year later....

I was thinking along the same lines of using the original sump, but was not confident of this route due to being unsure about the oil pick up for the engines oil pump, I was also thinking of using the apollo tank as a reservoir, however have decided not to. On the stock list at caterham parts the sumps go from 1 to 0 stock as soon as they have them it seems, there appears to be high demand at the moment, I have missed 3 in the last month but got lucky yesterday....

After slowly gathering the bits for a dry sump install (cc type non bellhouse tank) I have a couple of questions on the fitting. I understand that the scavenge pump empties the sump and the original oil pump acts as the pressure stage. Normally the (engine) oil pump would pick up from the sump how does this get converted in a dry sump install. I've waded through 30 pages of archives but can't find anything. Has anyone written a conversion guide or know of any threads to explain? Thanks, Albert

On the slow puncture, I had this issue with front right, it was actually not the tyre but a small deformation of the inside of the rim, caused I think when the tyre was fitted, used to lose 0.75bar/month. Worth checking rim by spinning with wheel off the ground, and straight edge.

Hotly on here has a nice R400 for sale. Rgds Albert