Markharrison2

Tried the non nyloc nut and the joint was still spinning frustratingly, possibly as my joint got a slight bit of corrosion on the thread. Need to make more friends :-)

So if anyone attempting this, and doesn't have much experience, like me, I found the only way I could stop the ball joint from spinning, when tightening back up, was to jack up the lower suspension arm. Whilst the front of the car on axle stands . Had me puzzled for a while. Cheers

Thanks for the advice. Always good to get a few tips

Thanks, didn't manage to find that previously, should do it

As subject, what size boot or dust cover do I need to order for the Front Upper Suspension arm ball joint? Is it off another vehicle? I have a 2006 SV, it's not wide track if that makes a difference. Thanks

if you are running throttle bodies, make sure they are balanced. This caused my car to fail on emissions last year

Ok you guys deserve an answer on this after all the helpful suggestions you gave me. I ended up getting an auto electrician to help. He traced it to a poorly installed water/oil temp gauge, that was shorting to earth and blowing the dash fuses. When I disconnected the aces computer, it altered this connection temporarily leading to confusion. Once rewired was ok. Also had to loosen the wiring on the sprung loaded fuse to the aces as it was so tight it was preventing the circuit to complete. Cheers

Hi, have been busy with other things, hopefully get a look this weekend. Got some useful advice from aces technical support: Sorry you have been having problems with the SureShift 2. This sounds like a short circuit on the signal wire. Do you know if it was shortened at any time? It is of a co-axial construction (like an aerial lead) with the outer connected to ground via the plug. The outer must not come into contact with the inner otherwise it will cause a short circuit of the signal which would result in no RPM being seen by it or any other tachometer device connected to the same signal. If you unplug the power lead from the SureShift 2 box and disconnect the signal end, you can test for continuity between the signal end (1/4 inch female spade) and the body of the plug. If there is a short here, it is most likely to occur if someone reduced the length of the cable and did not keep the outer away from the inner. It is possible for a short to occur at the plug end if the insulation between inner and outer is damaged. If you find a short circuit there, you may be able to reterminate it yourself or return the power loom to us for repair. Will look into this when get a chance. Thanks Johnathan, Mark

Didn't show your latest post when I looked for some reason, will try your suggestions Jonathan, thanks

Instructions for sure shift 2 as I have. http://www.aceserve.co.uk/new04/pdfs/ss2ug5d.pdf My plan is to check wiring carefully at some point, if that is ok, has to be the box, for that will contact the aces technical support , so will get to the bottom of it with that. Glad we narrowed it down, and I can still use the car in the meantime! Thanks

so with aces change lights disconnected, everything works including aces box. But fan still not moved.thoughts?

Ok aces splices into black and white wire that goes into back of tachometer

disconnected both aces leads

Tachometer is Caterham unit, reads up to 8k. fan not working after 1-2mins running, is that normal?

Ok with ACES disconnected, everything works normally. Tachometer drops to zero when ignition off. Will investigate where it splices into