chris956

Yep...know what you mean ..... !

Well , dont you love an intermittant fault - Drove it today in the lovely sunshine and no problem whatsoever. Disconnected the lambda and made zero difference. Could not replicate the lumpy running... typical During connector check found that the block connector under the engine cover had been touching the cover and clearly been rubbing - maybe the high frequency vibration is causing an issue and so has been isolated by wrapping the block connector in high density foam. This was the only thing that had been changed by me from the lumpy runing to today and no problem. Main Earth strap to the engine mount has been moved away from the cam sensor and put on the other side as it "can" become a problem with the electrical signals causing interference. Later this week the engine map will be reloaded into the ecu as a precaution and belt and braces.

I`ve still got the flap in place but with a hefty shove the nozzle goes in no problem. Maybe my flap is worn a little so allows a bit of play. My technique is to feed the nozzle in with the handle downward and then lift the handle up forcing the nozzle end round the bend in through past the flap....... sounds painful !

SM25T - I did as you suggested in 2nd post thanks but made no difference at that time. Things have moved on a bit and with the new TPS it cured the problem for a short while. I am about to pop out and try the lambda disconnect again to try an elliminate it again or not , as the case maybe. Interesting about the map needing reloading ??? What would cause that ? Some weird electrical gremlin ?

Well that didnt last long did it ....... I cant be putting a new TPS on it everytime I drive the friggin thing .... Drove it to Bedfored yesterday in probably the worst conditions I have ever driven on a motorway for 2 hours of it back firing , farting , jerking and giving me heart failure thinking it was going to die on me and being bullied by HGV`s that have no fear of aqua planing. Did the trackday at Bedford and the car ran fine but probably because it was mostly WOT for the full day.... not much levelling off on the throttle. You are either on it or on the brakes !........ and then the same wonderful journey all the way home but this time worse throttle response and terrible fuel economy along with black smoke which introduced the new game of ...... will I run out of petrol !! Anyway , nursed it home and nothing looks a mis, all connections fine including the new TPS. No water to be seen ( which is what I suspected on the way up there given the sheer quantity both on the road surface and falling from the sky ) So , it seems back to square 1 and this time it will be plugged into the laptop whilst trying to replicate the fault...... bloody electrical faults are always a PITA

Yes that right as we found out. Mine was a recent 2012 nose cone and it has a slightly larger aperture where the grill goes. The older nose cone that we tried to attach my grill too was to small and hence the grill overhung at either end. Thats how I know Rob has a fair selection as they all came out !!!

Give Rob at Boss racing a call mate. I was there today having mine sorted and he had a selection of bits and bobs that should fit http://www.boss-racing.co.uk/

Cheers JV .... I will look into that. I`ve got all the stuff so will probably knock one up for the spares box that started small and is getting larger by the week !!

"Delighted to hear that it's running well again. I'd agree that the TPS looks pretty cheaply constructed, but I suspect it's the inherent vibration that kills it. I've had several Mondeos over the years and never had a TPS problem with them. Note that CC's uprated TPS subloom has more durable and flexible wiring but the TPS itself is the same. Re covering part of the rad, I don't (although several do, I believe), but I do cover the oil cooler with kitchen foil. JV" That's a bit of a con then if the actual TPS is the same on the race sub loom.... That's a big mark up for 3 short lengths of silicon wiring and an econoseal at the end. Good point about tin foil over the oil cooler. Will do that and see how the temp goes

Fitted the part and just been out for a quick blat. Back to its former glory. Because I`m a man I have taken the old one apart to see how rubbish it is inside and my god .. 2 bob job or what !! What a cr@p design. Anyway , thanks all for your help and encouragement. I have ordered a new one £17.99 for the spares box. I will in due course look at the uprated one with silicon wiring and swap to that. I did notice that the car took ages to get upto temp today due to it being generally cold outside. We used to tape up a quater of the radiator when we raced bikes to get them upto temp , do people do this on 7`s ? ?

^ exactly my point. Someone needs to start shouting about how much has been spent and its still broken. It can't be that hard for the Tefal heads to sort it as its fine when you are not logged in ?

Any update on this ????

C`mon Blatchat - get this sorted already. Its one of the main gripes from everyone and turns people off the site which is not good for business. We`ve paid lots of thousands of £££`s to get this site developed so why cant someone pick the phone up and start shouting. . . . . .or at last give some sort of explanation as to why it is sooo slow and moving forward , some timescales as to when it will be sorted ??? <<Presses the "post new comment button" ... and then has time to read 2 threads over at PH before anything happens>>

I am now in possession of : Ford Part Number 988F 9B989 BB which is the replacement TPS switch. Gonna fit it and try and get in exactly the same position as the existing fitted item as a test. Should the misfire be elliminated then it will be set with the plug in computer to the correct voltage....

I have those spongy silicon leads on my coil packs but definately not on the TPS. Had another look yesterday. Still dont know if the problem is fixed after a connector clean up as had no chance to drive the thing. I`ll speak to Rob ( Boss ) when I see him this week all being well.

I have those spongy silicon leads on my coil packs but definately not on the TPS. Had another look yesterday. Still dont know if the problem is fixed after a connector clean up as had no chance to drive the thing. I`ll speak to Rob ( Boss ) when I see him this week all being well.

Yep, could be. I have cleaned every connection today but the weather has been so bad I couldn't test the car. I have not attempted to dismantle or move the TPS. Looks simple enough but I don't have the diagnostic kit once its in bits.

Thanks Geof. Your last sentance has it for me as the car was used last week with no problems ( and it wasnt even in the wet !). It is not a problem that has been getting slightly worse. I will however go over all the electrical connections again and look for corrosion...

I`m not sure about the reset procedure - not that I have found at any rate. All the temp disconnect does at idle in the garage is make the fan come on , engine continues to run. The other temp sender ( to the gauge ) does nothing when disconnected other than make the gauge fall back to zero. Found a few articles on TPS and peoples problems. Sounds similar to mine but I have no way of checking the voltage etcso might have to leave it to an expert !!

Just been out to test it and thought all was well whilst it warmed up but no chnace. As soon as it got to temp and I started to give it some stick the problem recurred. Its almost like someone switching it off for a second or 2 when you level out the throttle. Light thrpttle and WOT are no problem. Frustrating to say the least as it was fine last time out.

...The engine stops immediately

Checked the archives and all I could find was Adjusting the TB`s not the TPS sensor. Will unplug it to see what happens....

OK , checked the cable and no obvious tears , frays or chaffing. Cleaned the connector out with air gun. Noticed the other end of the cable disappears into the loom. Doesnt look disturbed ?????

Will check those 2 thanks

R400 Duratec standard spec with throttle bodies ( caterham ). Running fine last time it was used and then today not so. Not changed anything other than charged the battery on a conditioner. Part throttle it dies then picks up , runs rough juddering all over the shop. Large throttle openings are fine and giving it 100% throttle clears the problem. I`ve checked plugs , coils , connections and air intake Anything else I should look for ??