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Powering a 12V starter with 24V............


Big Brother

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Can anyone suggest a way of charging two 12V batteries that are connectedd in SERIES, using a single 12V alternator?

Preferably one that doesn't need several £000 worth of electronic charging control gear.

 

Also, not sure if its important but one battery is a banner - the other will be around 1/2 the size.

 

Edited by - se7en-up! on 13 Mar 2006 22:03:53

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I think you'll have to run two sets of wiring ie. from the alternator to each battery separately as if they were each giving a 12v supply but I'm not sure what the implications for the rest of the car's wiring are from this....is it used on the road or purely a racecar which needs a bit of help starting? 🤔
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If my physics is correct you need to have the two batteries in parallel to give a greater current at 12V .. and you'd need the associated wiring to handle the current and starter that will handle it too.

 

Keep off the straight and narrow *tongue* 😬

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Its not a current problem.

The starter I have is small, it was originally designed to turn oner a 1.6 low compression engine.

Its now trying to spin a high compression 2 litre engine.

When its cold it just about manages it, when its hot - forget it!

 

Space issues mean that I can't fit a bigger starter.

Several people here with similar problems have had their starters rewound to 9V in an attempt to give them more of a kick. This works really well but is pretty expensive (£240+ and NO warranty as the starter motor becomes "non standard")

 

The old Escort rally cars used to run 12V starters on 24V to ensure they had enough "oooomph" to spin the engines over - no matter how hot they were.

 

I know its not ideal but its a semi proven solution.

And the other advantage is that if my starter motor ever dies, I can get a (cheap) replacement from Halfrauds etc.

 

Steve

 

 

SE7EN-UP!

Incorporating the Caterham Links Database

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I had a BDG Caterham which had that solution - I am told it was quite common for BD's, to get the standard starter to give a decent kick. It didn't seem to kill the starters either.

 

I don't know how the charging worked, but James Whiting did my car so I am sure he can help

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You can't charge two12v batteries in series off one 12v supply. The combined cell voltage, even discharged, will be pushing current the wrong way into the alternator windings.

But if, once started, you break the connection between -ve batt 1 and +ve batt 2, and wire them in parallel for charging, then you could do it. Big high current changeover switch needed though....

Or get a 24v alternator off an ex-MoD FFR landie and use that.

 

In any case, if your second battery is smaller than the standard Banner then it will limit the discharge rate available, reducing available current, so you might not get the kick you're expecting.

 

The easier solution is to uprate the battery (in discharge current terms), or move the battery so it's cooler. Assuming there aren't any faults with wiring, battery, starter or alternator first though.

 

Martin

Roadsports B with upgradeitis

 

 

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just use the same system the Escorts did

wE used it for years in Rally cars back in the good old days before WRC.

Use two relays[6RAs in those days] from starter position on key to open cct the parallel connections and a spare starter solenoid from same contact to supply the series link Works a treat.

jj

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Rahter than adding additional complexity, a second battery and the weight dis-advantage that adds, why not change the stater motor? I take the point of non-standard starters being too expensive, but what about a standard 6v starter. 12v running a 6v starter be enough kick.

 

They're as fitted to Willy's Jeeps and can still be bought form many Jeep parts places.

 

 

White road legal 2.0 HPC VX race car 😬

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Problem is not really a price one - however I really don't want to give Brise £250 for a starter they can't/won't warranty.

 

The problem is one of space.

With the Raceline sump fitted to a Zetec, you are limited to both the diameter and length of the starter.

The sump was designed for use with a standard Crossflow starter (0.9kw)

This may be fine for a standard Zetec but raise the compression and the starter struggles to turn the engine.

(and refuses to do anything when hot!)

 

I've found a small 12V battery that is around 1/2 the size of a banner. I think two of these will just fit into a banner battery holder so as for a weight increase, its pretty minimal.

The wiring is pretty straight forward too (thanks Johnty)

 

My only concern is that the old Escorts and BD's used the old inertia type starters. These were a little larger so I guess they would handle the extra voltage a little better.

 

As for damaging the starter motor, I think I'm doing this every time I try to start my car - it stop turning and gets very hot as it struggles with the compression.

 

My theory is that 24V into a 12V starter will spin it faster, and this should start the engine quicker.

End result is the motor is used for less time so it should not overheat.

 

(Also I was told today, that several engine tuners run 24V into the tiny K series starters to restart hot engines when they are fitted to a dyno)

 

 

As for damaging the starter, I think heat would be the biggest killer (Where's Chris W when you need him 😬)

 

 

Steve

 

 

SE7EN-UP!

Incorporating the Caterham Links Database

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