David Lynch Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 Hello Folks, the 🙆🏻 of my car is pretty tatty. What experience of POR-15 do you have? Preparation? I was just looking to clean/degrease and wire brush/rough sand. It's all in the preparation. So any guidance, products and best surface condition for POR-15 application would be appreciated. Is the Chassis Coat Black worthwhile over the top of POR-15? I'll probably do it anyway as want to leave alone until rebuild time (years away £££) 😬 Want surface to be easily cleanable. Was there ever any paint on driveshafts (they are just a lovely shade of Iron Oxide)? Ta Muchly 1.4K SS 😬 The Geek will inherit the earth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I reply to every thread Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 It's good - DON'T get it on flesh - you have to wait for it to grow out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Norman Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 Used POR 15 on chassis last night. Appears to be very good. Preparation was scraper to remove flaking powder coat and then wire brush. AVES is right about trying to remove from flesh it's a right bu**er, have scars to proove. Tin advises to decant to smaller vessel and then reseal tin asap, with cling film between tin lip and lid otherwise when the paint dries the lid is permanent fixture. Hopefully an indication of how well it sticks to the chassis. Needs top coat if used on surfaces that are subject to UV as it must degrade I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Lynch Posted January 18, 2006 Author Share Posted January 18, 2006 I don't intend the chassis seeing sunlight as that indication I've got it very wrong Reckon more resiliance to lots of road miles with top coat though. I'd best liberate some gloves from near the diesel pumps next time I'm at a garage then 😬 1.4K SS 😬 The Geek will inherit the earth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 The other advice is to only decant teeny amounts at a time - it goes a long way. Also, FWIW, it cures harder/quicker in damp conditions. Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 Myles, nearly ther, bottle 73 now, Does this stuff sitck womens lips together? The talking ones I mean Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here You and your seven to The French Blatting Company Limited Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 Excellent Norman, just the final push... From what I've seen, POR-15 will probably stick anything to anything - if it stays still long enough. That could be a problem... Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Norman Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 David, I think you are right about a top coat protecting for more miles and it will be easier to do as surface will not preparing for second coat. (leave some gloves on the forecourt for those of us who have oil burners ) 😬 😬 😬 😬 Back to the garage to see if I can lid off the tin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephen grant Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 If one was to use POR-15 on the chassis and then, some time down the road, you took the car to pieces and set the chassis back to Arch for powder coating, would the POR-15 layers cause them any difficulty in re-powder coating? stephen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjmmarsh Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 Hammerite Thinners gets POR-15 off the skin very well - so long as it hasn't dried (i.e. you have about 30 mins to get it off). You can guess why I know this! Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stinky Dave Posted January 18, 2006 Share Posted January 18, 2006 Just done mine with Por 15 bought from frosts, friend recommended it. Wire brush and sand of flaking powder coating and any surface rust. Then simply paint. Warning Wear gloves Cheers Dave *thumbup* RED CYCLE WINGS 1700 C/FLOW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveMorris Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 Good gloves to wear are the medical ones - pop and see your local dentist - they'll probably let you have 5-10 pairs (if you see them professionally that is) or offer to buy a box off him/her. ISTR that they're significantly cheaper that you'd pay at DT's , HFrauds etc (£3/100 seems to ring a bell). I wear them for all work on the car (but them I'm a big softie really), Dave. Never put off till tomorrow what can be enjoyed today 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Support Team Shaun_E Posted January 19, 2006 Support Team Share Posted January 19, 2006 I had painted parts of my chassis in POR15 and it didn't cause Arch any problems when they stripped it a couple of years later. They sand blast the chassis before recoating. Yellow SL #32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephen grant Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 Thanks Shaun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phillinda Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 Just ordered some Por-15 from Frosts so I can treat the rear end of the car whilst the De-dion is out. Reading the instructions on the web-site they recommend using 'metal ready' before applying Por-15. Does this make any difference? Phil 1997 Brooklands Green 1.8 Supersport Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NigelJ Posted January 19, 2006 Share Posted January 19, 2006 I am in exactly the same position - just ordered from Frosts. Their technical fella advised that if you are applying the POR15 to unrusted metal then the metal prep stuff would be needed to key the surface. Maybe that is just selling more product but I "fell" for it. I guess I will see!!! As an aside, one of my colleagues at work used the paint on his Landrover about 6 months ago and now swears by it. NigelJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Lynch Posted January 19, 2006 Author Share Posted January 19, 2006 Hmm.. Only intend applying 'Metal Ready' to clean and etch totally rusted drive shafts. Comment last time car was at Midlands was lack of paint meant it was easy to spot any damage on De Dion My main concern is good cleaner/degreaser. Collected my Medical Gloves from friend this evening . Text message asking 'Medium or large and are you alright with Latex ?' caused much mirth in the office 1.4K SS 😬 The Geek will inherit the earth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefoster Posted January 20, 2006 Share Posted January 20, 2006 The gloves you want are Nitrile. Much stronger than Latex I used Por 15 on chassis underneath and so far it is doing much better than hammerite that chips off pretty easily. Hants (north) / Berkshire club here Area meeting pics here My Racing here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Lynch Posted January 20, 2006 Author Share Posted January 20, 2006 Right, checked out POR15's own website and got MSDS, Instruction and Numpty Instruction sheets. Looks like it's best on bare etched metal but that isn't an option except for driveshafts. It's going over degreased, sanded and cleaned still partially coated frame. But it seems everyone happy it's more impact resiliant that Hammer/Smootherite. Reckon A-Frame and bushes worth replacing outright though due to wavy cross member . Notice the starter pack that Holden sell contains Grey, not Black else that would have sufficed for a Se7en 🙆🏻 Frost don't sell it... Of course painting it all grey would reduce the 'missed a bit' errors and then Chassis Coat Black over the top POR15 £17, Chassis Coat Black £20, Metal Ready £11, Marine Clean £9 Cloths, Wire brush, paintbrushes, small pots, gloves, tie wraps, safety specs and a good few hours of my time 1.4K SS 😬 The Geek will inherit the earth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LazerBrain Posted January 20, 2006 Share Posted January 20, 2006 I'd add a face mask to that list of bits. POR-15 stinks and you'll probably be working with the brush very close to your head! cheers, Darren. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted January 20, 2006 Share Posted January 20, 2006 Could I suggest here Cheaper than a lot of places, helpful and quick delivery. Bri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickh7 Posted January 20, 2006 Share Posted January 20, 2006 Just got the POR from frosts ad Vat on the prices Very quick service Nick h What its all about Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickh7 Posted January 30, 2006 Share Posted January 30, 2006 Used it at the weekend 🙆🏻 What a bu 🙆🏻 🙆🏻er, got it everywhere, best bit was the drop that got between the saftey goggles and my face, spread accross the bridge of my nose giving me a nice black Adam Ant stripe , caught it before it went off removed it with brush cleaner but still my face is a little red and it does look like I've got blackheads ☹️ A bit shiny for my taste but as its underneath I'll live with it thats the paintwork not my complexion Nick h What its all about Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Lynch Posted February 1, 2006 Author Share Posted February 1, 2006 Gone whole hog and got Chassis Coat Black too. Cheated a bit and bought a New A-Frame (Other one not quite straight shall we say ☹️) 1.4K SS 😬 The Geek will inherit the earth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted February 8, 2006 Share Posted February 8, 2006 Used it for the first time last night, applied 3 coats, second after 3 hours. Only problem is the finish has bubbled on the underside of the chassis tubes, although everywhere else it looks goods - has anyone else experienced this? I went throuigh a fairly strict regime of wire brushing, emery cloth and de-grease with acetone. Only thing I can think of is that there were some traces of red oxide primer still on the tubes and I think this may have reacted with the POR 15 - looks like I will have to partially rub down and start again ☹️ Interestingly, no reaction where POR 15 has overlapped onto the original powder coating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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