PAUL MARRIOTT Posted June 6, 2005 Share Posted June 6, 2005 Got to replace the rear pads, standard brakes year 200 K series. The guide says that I need a special Ford tool, £80 🤔 🤔 to push the caliper pistons back in or take them to Caterham / ford dealer - seems a bit excessive. Surely they can just be pushed back in with the origional pads? Paul M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaseb Posted June 6, 2005 Share Posted June 6, 2005 Aren't those calipers adjusted on a screw thread so to get new pads in you'd need to wind the pistons back in?! Or was that just my overactive imagination... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvoDunc Posted June 6, 2005 Share Posted June 6, 2005 Yeah you do need a special tool though not a ford specific one. £25 from Halfords would do. The pistons are on a thread and have grooves that he tool slots into so you can wind them back in. Not sure why to be honest. Leaverage won't do I'm afraid. Hope that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL MARRIOTT Posted June 6, 2005 Author Share Posted June 6, 2005 Thanks Chaps, and I've just read Myles comments on his website, so it looks like a bit more dosh in Halfords coffers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgrigsby Posted June 6, 2005 Share Posted June 6, 2005 The Halfords tool works well but if you're desperate I think it can be done with a pair of long nose piers, you just need to screw the piston back into the caliper. Rob G www.SpeedySeven.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamie adams Posted June 6, 2005 Share Posted June 6, 2005 make sure you wind them clockwise! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted June 6, 2005 Share Posted June 6, 2005 Cruel, but true, Rob - Can't help thinking it's like handing a twig to a drowning-man though... Get the tool from HF (ISTR it was nearer £20) - it might seem expensive for two-minutes work - but it makes life so much easier for the future and should mean that you aren't put off regular brake-maintenance due to the faff with pliers... Just to reiterate something I'm fairly-sure is on my site (and that Jamie has picked-up on)... When the tool reaches maximum travel (i.e. the piston stops rotating *clockwise*), do *NOT* be tempted to wind it anticlockwise more than is needed to align the cross in a NESW orientation (it will make sense when you get there if it does not now). In order to remove the tool, just rotate the silver barrel *clockwise* until there is enough clearance to get it out. It's just possible that the reason why my handbrake doesn't work (it's a caliper problem) is because I tried winding the piston too far anticlockwise in an attempt to free the tool from the clapper - it basically jammed and can't have done the handbrake mech any favours. Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pelico Posted June 6, 2005 Share Posted June 6, 2005 It makes me want to buy one just to work out what the hell Myles is on about 😬 😬 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul McKenzie Posted June 6, 2005 Share Posted June 6, 2005 If you're going to disconnect the brake line (which you should do 'cos it's time to replace the fluid and bleed the brakes) to remove the caliper and to replace the pads, then you don't need the tool as you can do all the work in comfort on the bench and the piston is easily wound back with circlip pliers/thin nose angled pliers. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevefoster Posted June 6, 2005 Share Posted June 6, 2005 Pliers do work! Just be carefull they don't jump off and rear the outer seal! After a few pliers changes I bought the tool as I was doing a lot of them at the time... Hants (North) and Berkshire Area club site here My racing info site here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Midnight Posted June 7, 2005 Share Posted June 7, 2005 Is it possible to fit the new rear pads by undoing the bolts that hold the caliper to the De-dion ear and lifting it off the disc without disconnecting the brake pipes (perhaps by cutting the tie wraps that hold the brake pipe assembly to the dedion tube to give more movement) otherwise what is the best method of getting access to the pads particularly the insIde pad and the piston? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted June 7, 2005 Share Posted June 7, 2005 You don't need to cut the tie-wraps - just undo the two bolts and carefully lift off - you can move it more than enough for access to the rear pads. Flexis make it a hell of a lot easier - but I removed the caliper dozens of times with hard-lines without any problems. Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL MARRIOTT Posted June 7, 2005 Author Share Posted June 7, 2005 Think I'll take the calipers off altogether and give them a good clean and lub,I can then check whether I need the tool or not. Last time I had them off was when I built the car 3yrs and 25,000 mls ago so it's about time. I must admit that not withstanding your experiance Myles I would be worried about doing more than the basic minimum with the solid hose attached, one slip or twist could Kn*cker the line altogether ☹️. Paul M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted June 7, 2005 Share Posted June 7, 2005 Well yes - one of the reasons why I changed... ...but if you limit the 'bare minimum' to winding the piston back and changing pads - that's all I ever tried. The caliper does slide much more freely with flexis - something JAG was always on about - so I'd expect even pad-wear from now on. Project Scope-Creep is live... Alcester Racing 7's Equipe - 🙆🏻™ Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL MARRIOTT Posted June 17, 2005 Author Share Posted June 17, 2005 Pads changed No problems. Got to them just in time, I thought that I had about 3-4mm left but when I got them out the inner pads where nearly down to the metal *eek*. I also found the source of the clunk in the back end - the calipers had moved back due to the brake pad wear and where catching on the rear radius arms. And I manage the maintenance operation for a significant building 🤔 🤔 🤔 Paul M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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