Sandboy Posted July 17, 2004 Share Posted July 17, 2004 Can anyone help me diagnose problem? Checked connections and fuse but more practical than technical so pointers would be much appreciated. 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irrelevant Posted July 17, 2004 Share Posted July 17, 2004 Depending on your wiring, it'll either be the fuse, thermostatic switch on engine, a switch in the ECU, a dodgy connection, or of course the fan itself. Check the fan works by wiring it to the battery before you do anything else. If it's stopping you from playing, just wire it up so it's on all the time until you get time to diagnose the underlying cause. If you do this, use a fuse, and you could even add a manual fan switch on the dash - very handy   After a hi-vis (pocketted side) driver's door if anyone's got one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Bowden Posted July 17, 2004 Share Posted July 17, 2004 I could be any of the items Adam has said, but I would say the most likely is the switch/theromstat in the top of the radiator. Mine failed after 18 months and 9000 miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted July 17, 2004 Share Posted July 17, 2004 Sandboy Temporarily touch a wire across the terminals on the thermostatic switch with the ignition ON. If the fan comes on the fault is definitely the thermoswitch. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Ferdinand Posted July 17, 2004 Share Posted July 17, 2004 If your fan switch is at the top of your rad like mine it could be an air lock. Jack the front of teh car up, remove the bleeding bolt, and top up the coolant through the bolt hole. SL03 JEB - R300 with Bulls  Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silaxe Posted July 17, 2004 Share Posted July 17, 2004 Another possibility which is actually what happened to me is that some "paste/stuff/gunk" (whatever you want to call it really) covered the fan switch inside the rad and heat insulated it so that it would not come on anymore. Once removed and cleaned up I tested it in boiling water and it worked fine at 88ºC so I suggest you try that first. In my case, since I never wanted to be caught with overheating/no fan again I also put a bypass switch on the dash (thanks again Chris W for your help) + a lower temp thermostat (I might go back to the original thermostat this winter though). Cheers - Silaxe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandboy Posted July 18, 2004 Author Share Posted July 18, 2004 Thanks for all the advice. The bypass switch sounds like a usefull addition. Thanks again. 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted July 18, 2004 Share Posted July 18, 2004 The circuit for the by-pass switch is featured in the the latest edition of LF. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nifty Posted July 18, 2004 Share Posted July 18, 2004 As a temporary 'keep going' option will a wire soldered across the fan switch do? Keep off the straight and narrow 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnty Lyons Posted July 18, 2004 Share Posted July 18, 2004 just disconnect the two wires from the sw and jointhem to-gether they are Lucars so will slide to-gether easily  jj N.I. L7C AO. Membership No.3927. Se7en Services.N.I. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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