finmac Posted July 1, 2004 Share Posted July 1, 2004 Once every 20 or so times my starter motor does not work, tends to click like the battery is flat (it isn't). If I give the car a shove it clears itself and is OK again. ANy suggestions as to cause? I am heading off on a long trip next week so wondered if it is easier just to change it for a new one? Any idea of likely cost and wheres the best place to get one... motorfactors? If I went to a motor factors what do you reckon the best car to tell them the motor is from? (i.e. they will never have heard of a Cat so if I ask for a starter motor for say a 1.3 Escort from around 96 vintage would that do the trick?) cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted July 1, 2004 Share Posted July 1, 2004 Finmac It's not your starter motor at fault. It's your solenoid. Suggest you strip it down and clean it out. The tolerances (of the activator plunger in its barrel) are very close and, over time, general muck gets inside because there is a small air equaliser hole (to stop the plunger's being restricted by air suction due to the tight tolerances). This muck prevents the plunger from moving as far back when activated as it should so you hear the click of the solenoid gear's being engaged with the flywheel but there is not quite enough movement to close the contacts. The main contacts within the solenoid, which provide power to the starter motor, also get pitted and generally gunged up as well (they carry about 300 amps). Depending on the design of the solenoid it may be possible to get to them to clean them too. (I'm not familiar with the Xflow version specifically). Some solenoids are pigs to get to these contacts, necessitating drilling out of rivets. The plunger clean out however is usually straightforward. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J A T Richardson Posted July 2, 2004 Share Posted July 2, 2004 Also, the starter motor is affected by the heat of the exhaust. I've wrapped mine in exhaust bandage, since when no probs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert heywood Posted July 2, 2004 Share Posted July 2, 2004 put a new one on mine £16.50 from local factors, lucas exchange, easy job to do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Sewell Posted July 2, 2004 Share Posted July 2, 2004 At one stage I had a dodgy connection on the activation circuit to the solenoid. Just removing and replacing the spade connector a few times cleared it! Low tech luddite - xflow and proud! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe 90 Posted July 2, 2004 Share Posted July 2, 2004 Ask for a Ford Escort Mk1 1600 GT. SEP field working, not spotted in 101,600 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 10 June Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rowly Posted July 3, 2004 Share Posted July 3, 2004 Chris W's advice is good. I had the same problem....turn keys and nothing, try again sometimes it would sometimes nada. Everso easy to remove and strip. Makes you feel good about yourself afterwards...you know, like a real mechanic and everything Owner of *thumbup*The Wombat L7OC member 27,000 so far Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldbutnotslow Posted July 3, 2004 Share Posted July 3, 2004 There are previous threads on this topic that you should check out. I suffered starting problems when the engine was hot but mine is a K . The bypass relay sorted this out a treat - no problems even after thrashing around the track Grant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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