philip smith Posted May 18, 2004 Share Posted May 18, 2004 Every time i come to start the car from cold its turns over normally, fires first time, revs to around 1500 momentarly then dies. Turn it over again and it wont fire up unless you give it a bit of throttle, even then it usually fires and dies a couple more times with the odd pop and bang. When it does eventually start theres a big puff of smoke from the exhaust, its idle is a bit lumpy and the fumes stink (bit like a knackerd old 205 with the choke out full). When warm it starts normally. The car is a 1.8 superlight, with std mems and catalyst exhaust. It was used throughtout last summer, but has sat idle with the battery disconected over winter. I have tried resetting the ECU (ignition on, press the accelerator 6 times, ignition off) but its not cured the problem. Any suggestions?? Thanks Phil Smith Limegreen 1.8 Superlight No. 89 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weirdy Posted May 18, 2004 Share Posted May 18, 2004 Charge or replace the battery, check the fluid levels, have the same troubles myself...... New battery and VROOM first time warms upto 1250rpm which is tick over, used to when less thrashed and newer do as yours does.... IF thats not it..... I dunno..... Weirdy One Happy SV VHPD speeding Monster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F355GTS Posted May 18, 2004 Share Posted May 18, 2004 Philip Sounds like it could be a sticky IACV, worth taking it out and lubricating Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philip smith Posted May 18, 2004 Author Share Posted May 18, 2004 Mark, Not wishing to sound to thick but what is a IACV, and where will i find it? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted May 18, 2004 Share Posted May 18, 2004 Philip I agree with Mark. I had the same symptoms on my K in the winter and I cleaned/lubricated the IACV and the problem disappeared and has not returned. It now starts (as it always used to) immediately on the button. The IACV is the "Idle Air Control Valve" and it's situated on the LHS of the throttle opening looking forward from the driver's position. It's about 6" forward of where the air filter finishes and the plenum (the inlet manifold) starts. It's also worth cleaning the throttle position pot which is also on the LHS just after where the air filter finishes and the plenum begins. It is a bit like a choke in a sense. When the engine stops and you release the throttle, the throttle closes. But then (you may have heard the whirring after stopping) the ECU (which is still active for about 30 secs after you switch off) opens the IACV a tad to allow for the next start. The IACV also controls idling once started and while the engine is cold. It is activated and under the control of the ECU. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Edited by - Chris W on 18 May 2004 18:07:46 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Whitley Posted May 18, 2004 Share Posted May 18, 2004 I was looking at mine last night (1993 Supersport with the throttle at the front) and it doesn't seem to have an IACV, instead there is an electric motor operating on the throttle control itself. I cleaned it but still the car won't run for 30 sec after starting unless I keep my foot on the accelerator and thereafter I have an oscillating idle (down to 500 rpm, up to 2000 rpm, down again). M1 7 SMW 1.8K Mem.No. 10376 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philip smith Posted June 8, 2004 Author Share Posted June 8, 2004 Took of the IACV to clean it as suggested, its now in 4 pieces and totally knackered , got a replacement from Dave Andrews, put this on the engine and it still wont start properly, same symptoms as before, fires first turn, revs to 1500-2000 then dies, wont start again unless you tickle the gas pedal. Help please. ☹️ ☹️ ☹️ Phil Smith Limegreen 1.8 Superlight No. 89 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted June 8, 2004 Share Posted June 8, 2004 Hi Philip, just an idea ..... If its not the IACV, could it be the water temp sensor? I think there are two, one for the gauge and another for the ECU. You could use/borrow an Emerald to check that all the sensors, air temp, coolent temp, TPS, MAP? etc are working. If its a new spec car (EU3) with the 80pin MEMS it will be hard to swap to an Emerald, but you could check the sensors wiring and also that they work using a voltmeter/ohmmeter etc. If thats the case and you need more details me know. Lastly, there are some details on the MEMS and how to check the IACV and sensors etc in "Engine Management & Fuel Injection Systems Manual" ... a Haynes manual. This lists the follow check for the stepper motor (IACV) --- 1. Switch the ignition key to "on" position 2. After 5 seconds, switch the ignition key to "off". The stepper motor plunger should fully retract, and then step to the correct position (according to temperature), ready for the next engine start. After 15 seconds, the main relay will audibly "click out". If this operation is completed satisfactorily, it is probable that the stepper motor condition is also satisfactory --- ... and it goes on to stepper motor tests. (Rather than me type it all, read it down at halfords or I could scan/email a copy) Adam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philip smith Posted July 21, 2004 Author Share Posted July 21, 2004 Still dosn't work, really starting to p!$$ me off, any new suggestions. £20 to LRF for the first suggestion that works. Help please ☹️ ☹️ ☹️ ☹️ ☹️ Phil Smith Limegreen 1.8 Superlight No. 89 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philip smith Posted July 26, 2004 Author Share Posted July 26, 2004 ☹️ ☹️ ☹️ ☹️ ☹️ ☹️ Phil Smith Limegreen 1.8 Superlight No. 89 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Whitley Posted July 26, 2004 Share Posted July 26, 2004 If it's any help mine turned out to be the throttle position sensor - £10 from a scrapyard off a Rover. Not sure how temperature could come into it unless there's am intermittent connection that makes when it's warm Another input that's not been mentioned is the crank position sensor - see Angus & Tessa's site for a blow-by-blow account of that one. M1 7 SMW 1.4-now-1.8K Mem.No. 10376 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted July 26, 2004 Share Posted July 26, 2004 Philip, give us an update and I might be able to suggest some further tests etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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