Non Starter...Any last suggestions before I have to get a man in?

[Northern Banana]

Sorry for the repeat, but wondered if anyone had any last glimmers of inspiration before I reluctantly have to pay to get someone else to fix it.

 

Summary of Problem:

 

I left the ignition on for a week draining the battery. Charged up the battery (back to 12.4v) but when I switch on the ignition the fuel pump relay in the Multi Function Relay Unit buzzers.

 

If I try to start the car (whilst the relay is buzzing), the starter motor won't turn and another relay in the MFRU buzzes (probably the starter motor relay).

 

Car is a 1998 Superlight R with a 1.8 VHPD.

 

This is what I have tried so far:

 

a) Jump leads from other car.

b) Checked all fuses and earths.

c) Tried a replacement MFRU - same problem persists.

b) Tried alternative ECU & immobiliser block.

e) Tried alternative fuel pump.

f) Tried bypassing the fuel cut off switch.

 

Does the distributor or coil play any part in the switching of ignition process, also what function does the fuel trap perform?

 

Caterham can't give me any clues, so just wondered if there is a genius in waiting out there Fingers crossed.

 

 

 

Northen Banana's Site has been stolen....so pics will have to do!

[F355GTS]

Paul

 

I have read your other posts and obviously you've tried a process of elimination and had some advice from the master (Chris W) so I apologise if anything i suggest is a repeat

 

Firstly am I right you are based oop north so getting the car to Berks is not an option?? (on trailer of course!)

 

If you can get it here then you are welcome, i like a challenge! if not possible then it's worth trying the following

 

 

 

1. with ignition off connect a wire from the battery Ve+ to the small connector on the starter, does the starter turn or at least is there a loud click as the solenoid reacts

 

If no then I would suspect

 

a) Battery

b) Earth between battery and engine (probably via bodywork)

 

to prove a) replace battery

to prove b) take good quality jump lead from Battery VE- to engine

 

Obviously replace as appropriate

 

2. Assuming the above works ie turns over or at least clicks then connect a good quality jump lead from the VE+ of the battery to the large connector on the starter (the one that has the lead from either your battery or master switch) then follow 1. above

 

does it turn over? if yes go to 3 below

 

if not replace starter ( I suggest you borrow one as it may not be faulty!)

 

3. Assuming the car is now turning over we need to give it ignition ie power to the coil and some fuel preferably at the right time!

 

so turn on the ignition, is the red light on!, now remove a spark plug lead and a plug or if you have a spare plug put it in the cable and touch the body of the plug to earth, try and start and as the starter turns the engine are you getting a spark at the plug?

 

if yes then the ignition circuit is probably OK

 

if no then I would initially suspect the coil as thes are susceptible to failure when left on but you should also check the HT leads, distie and rotor arm. If these are OK then we need to check there is 12v getting to the coil........I'll be back in a minute with more

 

Mark

[Luke Beaumont]

This rings a bell from a posting a month or so ago. Alas I really can't remember anything about it at all, other than this weird thing with the fuel relay buzzing.

 

Anyway, if you've really flattened a battery, my experience is that it may be dead. You can charge it and have it show a voltage, but as soon as you try and draw a load the voltage sinks right down. If you have a multimeter, connect it to the battery and see what the voltage looks like as you switch the ign on and try cranking. Or, if you can borrow a battery out of a tin top, hook it up to your 7 with jump leads and see if normalcy returns. Note you need to bypass the 7 battery whilst doing this. I had a dead battery that was apparently putting such a load on the tintop battery that having the tintop connected made no difference at all. When I removed the dead battery and connected the tintop's battery directly, all was well.

[Chris W]

Paul

 

I still believe that it could be as simple as the battery's being totally kn*ckered.

 

Before you get a man in, I would suggest you hard wire in a borrowed battery. Using jump leads, as Luke also suggested, is not necessarily a good test. Jump leads are notorious for often making a bad connection and if your own battery is really dead it's just going to compound the issue.

 

 

It's got to be worth a try and nothing lost in money if it doesn't cure it.

 

Chris

 

2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here

[paul richards]

Paul

Sorry to hear your problem still exists.

You can borrow the battery off my 7 if you wish. It was new about 3 months ago.

Let me know and I'll run it over.

 

Paul Richards

Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

[Northern Banana]

I think the problem have been discovered.

 

Removed battery and wired in the battery from the Defender (via jump leads).

Can't get fuel pump to prime but car at least tries to turn over.

 

I then notice a terminal connector on the neg side of the battery with a broken wire, the other end of which dissappears into the wiring loom.

 

I extend the wire and attach it to the neg side of the Defender battery and hey-presto when I switch on the ignition, fuel pump primes and stops.

 

I don't know whether the wire was broken before I took out the battery or just frayed, but I suspect it feeds the ECU info and without the relevant voltage the ECU refuses to work.

 

So collecting new battery tomorrow (Thanks Paul for the offer of your battery..you are risking it, subjecting yourself to the snowy hills at the mo...better wait for summer) and touch wood car will be back to its wonderful spluttering VHPD idle I have been missing.

 

Chris W..you were spot on with the jump lead problem of not getting a good contact

I'm hoping that this is the reason why the car won't start from the Defender battery.

 

Fingers crossed for the morning.

[F355GTS]

 

Paul

 

Yes the small neg does feed the ECU

 

Mark

[caterhamnut]

Fingers crossed Paul - Blatchat saves the day in the end - glad you waited that little bit longer before calling a man out and spending a fortune - let us know how it goes.

 

NEW Nurburgring Pictures posted

here

55,000miles in 2.5 years

[paul richards]

Why haven't we got a smilie thing for fingers crossed 🤔 🤔 🤔

 

Paul Richards

Joint AO - L.A.D.S. (Lancashire and District Sevens)

Growing old is compulsory - Growing up is optional

[Andrew Dent]

 

Took your time though 😬

 

Now have an extra big toy cupboard, with the main toy in bits.

[Northern Banana]

😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬

*thumbup* *thumbup* *thumbup* *thumbup* *thumbup* *thumbup* *thumbup* *thumbup* *thumbup* *thumbup* *thumbup* *thumbup* *thumbup*

*wink* *wink* *wink* *wink* *wink* *wink* *wink* *wink* *wink* *wink* *wink*

*smile* *smile* *smile* *smile* *smile* *smile* *smile* *smile* *smile* *smile* *smile*

 

And behold she started again .

 

Thanks to everyone who helped with postings and phone calls, especially Mr Dent and the frequent loan of parts to 'try'.

 

If any of you ever needs a nice scenic stop over on the way to the Dales, don't hesitate to ask, give me a few days notice though to clear the cow muck from the track 😬

 

Thanks again.

 

Northen Banana's Site has been stolen....so pics will have to do!

 

Edited by - Paul Aram on 11 Mar 2004 18:10:57