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Any better solutions for upgraded rear brakes yet?


jimmyslr

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Several months ago I did some searching re upgrading the rear brakes to something a bit more effective, less heat soak prone, easier to replace pads on etc etc. At that time there did not seem an elegant solution. The decent calipers seemed to be some 2 pots, but you needed a separate handbrake mechanism which seems a chore. It's now winter upgrade time....

 

Has anyone identified a better solution yet?

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Not sure if I'm correct on this but I've fitted a brake bias valve and reduced the pressure to the rears. Adjusted by driving on straight road with observer at roadside and kept reducing pressure of rears till the fronts locked just before rears. The reduction is such that I reckon the rears have about 40% of the full pressure now so are hardly working. If this is correct, in theory they need downgrading, not upgrading.

 

norman verona

1989 BDR

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Rob,

 

Have you gone to vented disks 🤔 Reason for asking is that I'm looking at buying the standalone handbrake calipers in order to get road legal. Car is currently running AP Racing rear calipers with no handbrake but with solid disks.

 

The handbrake calipers I've been offered are currently on vented disks and I'm wondering if they can be configured for solid disks. Or if my rear calipers can be adapted for vented disks, in which case I buy the handbrake calipers and a pair of vented disks to go with them.

 

Steve.

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Norman,

I think you are right here.The rears are too powerful, and balance has to be sought by upgrading the fronts , or /and downgrading the rears. However ,for circuit work, even the de tuned rears may overheat if caned. So for that type of use, Rob, Mike and Steve are going in the right direction (at the expense of adding unsprung weight). Probably the more sensible ,and cheaper route , would be to duct air to the rears if you have overheating probs however.

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I have the solid rears Steve with the handbrake caliper, there are small spacers that you can use to dictate how far apart you want the two sides of the caliper so it's probably easy to adjust for solid and vented disks.

 

As an aside I've found that with the uprated rear brakes and a brake bias adjuster the overall braking of the car is HUGELY improved along with the longevity of the rear brakes. I run SLR sized wheels so I have the larger rear wheels, on and off track the braking really makes use of the extra tyre width and you can wind the brake balance to the rear a suprising amount.

 

Just for information I also have the uprated fronts and I think with these the balance is superb.

 

Cheers

Rob G

www.SpeedySeven.com

 

Edited by - rgrigsby on 21 Dec 2003 20:22:59

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Steve N. Great location in this weather! Used to do some work in 'The Bill House'. That's the nursing home about as far south as you can get @ Selsey!!!

 

Anyway, I heard (true or false?) that if Caterham had problem with SVA test in regard to brake fore and aft balance then they just fitted LESS efficient rear pads to compensate *eek*

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Jimmy I think the rear upgrade including the handbrake caliper is about £600 new but I picked up a set second hand, that's probably for the solid disk set-up I think the vented set-up is a bit more.

 

The proportioning valve was already fitted to my car when I bought it so I'm not sure how much they are, it's an AP Racing 5 position one that fits inside the cabin.

 

Cheers

 

Rob G

www.SpeedySeven.com

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The standard Caterham rear calipers are from the Sierra but did you guys know that the Sierra Cosworth and some Granadas used basically the same caliper but modified to fit over a ventilated disk?

 

A pair of these plus ventilated disks should overcome your problems and still give you an integrated handbrake.

 

Has anyone tried this 🤔

 

Am I teaching my Granny to suck eggs 🤔

 

 

 

Justin *cool*

 

Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former.

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Justin - finding a disc would be interesting unless you went for a custom bell, and the other snag would be that the vented Sierra caliper is designed to chew on a 24mm thick disc, which is overkill somewhat IWHT. Also damned heavy. The caliper's not that cheap either - £216/pair outright from Raldes.
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My deJoux Mini GT has teeny weeny KAD discs on the rear with a CNC machined aluminium hub and caliper, all designed to fit inside the 10" wheels. They are a sliding caliper design with a mechanical handbrake as per most rear disc systems. The braking would probably be less than with a large drum on the Caterham and they would obviously need modification. They are great on my Mini though, I bought them to keep the unsprung weight down and to stop me from having to arse about with adjusting drums.

 

http://www.kad-uk.com/minibraking.htm

 

From what I have heard the seperate mechanical calipers are pants. The most sensible thing to do would be to buy the smallest rear disc set-up you can find off a car that is relatively common in England and have it modded to fit. You'd get a good handbrake and will be able to 'set and forget', them, although you'll prolly need to put a bias valve into the system to reduce the power of them. With my S4 I intend saying originality be damned and put a twin M/C set-up in my car when I rebuild the braking system, that way I'll be able to tune the balance easily.

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Paul

 

I had Kad four pots on the front of my Mini. Not bad.

 

Mini racer Peter Baldwin told me the way to set up brakes on Minis was to jack the rear up and get somebody to press hard on the brake pedal. Adjust the bias valve so you can still just turn the rear wheels by hand with a bit of effort. If it rains turn the rear brakes off.

 

AMMO

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